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2000 RX300, logged 99k miles. The driver-side front break stuck and the pads wore out to the metal back plates. I am replacing the front breaks with new calipers, disks and pads. But this driver-side disk would not come loose. I applied WD4 and used the 2 small bolts trying to get the disk loosen but both threads on the disk busted. I then put the gear in N and turned the wheel around and applied hammer hits from back at the opening of back shield. The disk does not appear to give loose.
Guaranteed method:
1. squirt lots of QuickWrench or similar into upper stud holes. Turn wheel 180 degrees, do what now is upper holes.
2. let it sit for 20 minutes, repeat
3. let it sit for about an hr or so.
4. Take a HEAVY hammer or mid size sledge and hit HARD between the studs, on rotor hat. Take good aim not to hit stud.
5. Turn rotor by hand about 1/4 turn and hit again
6. Turn again and hit. About now it should pop. I am yet to see a rusted on rotor that won't. But I aim well, have good sledge and hit HARD.
When reinstalling new rotors, apply ample antisieze coat on the back of rotor hat.
IMMEDIATELY after install, bed in rotors and pads. Please! Do yourself many thousand miles to come favor.
Thank you both for the advice. Sprayed plenty Liquid Wrench and Penetrating Oil into the screw holes and the center (where the disk meets the hub) every half hour before 12AM last night and continued this morning. Rotating the disk and hit the disk from the back many times, still it would not come loose.
The penetrant seems to go down behind the disk so I guess the binding happens at the center circle.
Is there a way to get the wheel hub and the break disk come down while they are "joined" together? I see a spindle lock and a center nut behind. If I remove the center nut would the disk-hub come off?
You can even strike the front face ... closer to the edge ... yes it will damage but produces pull leverage on the far side. hitting from back is hard and I am sure you plan to junk the rotor.
I would put he lug nuts back on to protect the studs from an errant hammer blow.
There is a better penetrant based on transmission oil + ???.
You can start disassembling the ball joint and center shaft ... I would not do that as the center shaft will most likely be frozen. The whole thing can snow ball on you ... even if everything goes well you will need alignment and the stuck rotor will still need to be removed.
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; Sep 22, 2018 at 10:14 AM.
The homemade penetrating oil is ATF + acetone at a 50/50 mix.
What about removing the hub which will also remove the rotor? That is somewhat involved, but you could then work on removing the rotor away from the vehicle
What are you hitting the rotor with? You can get a 3lb or 4lb hammer at harbor freight for maximum momentum transfer.
Yes, the stuck rotor is to be junked. With your advice, I should not venture further other than focusing on removing the rotor disk alone.
Striking on the rotor worries me a bit - potentially damage the bearing(s) behind? Then, I have no other choice I guess.
To release pressure around the center circle, I am thinking about drill a few holes on the rotor around the hub center circle, or try a rotary cutter. Hopefully, metal drill bits and cutting disks do work on the ion / steel disk.
I am hitting the stuck rotor with a typical household hammer. I don't have anything bigger than this for the moment.
As to removing the hub-rotor together, I was thinking of it. Would they come out towards me after removing the center nut? Or, is it more involved as Salimshah was suggesting? As this hub center is giving me this much trouble, I don't mind to replace it with a new hub. I just don't know how complicated this (removing the hub together) is.
Nail polish remover typically has acetone but other ingredients also. Look at the label to make sure it has acetone. If so, you can mix up a small amount to spray into the rotor holes if your Penske oil doesn't work
I was trying to check if that Penske oil has acetone, but I can't find it on google anywhere or at the AutoZone website. It is like it doesn't exist.
Lexmus: Sorry for mistaking/mis-spelling your ID. The Penske spray can has the section that says "Contains: Kerosene, Butoxyethanol, Petroleum and Carbon Dioxide" as contents.
Salimshah and Ukrkoz: I will get a sledge hammer tomorrow to give it a try.
Since I ran into this just today, I have a question about this as well. There are 2 threaded holes opposite each other on the rotor flange. Is it possible to sink a bolt in each hole and slowly tighten each one until it breaks loose?
Help - removing front brake disc
