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Here are the photos of a replacement hub. The first photo is facing me. Referring to the original photo in the first post, after removing the spindle lock and the center nut, using the Hub Removal puller mentioned above, the hub along with the stuck rotor should come loose. Right? Is there anything inside and behind the hub that would preventing it coming out my way?
Nice instruction but what are the chances that the axle will slip out easy. There is just too much rust on components.
Also if that route is taken, make sure you take care of the half shafts as they exit from the transmission. The transmission end is lubricated and most likely will slip out. If that end comes out, replace the seal [do not skimp on that part ... instruction also call for replacing the snap ring].
[QUOTE=chenxingha;10314608]Here are the photos of a replacement hub. The first photo is facing me. Referring to the original photo in the first post, after removing the spindle lock and the center nut, using the Hub Removal puller mentioned above, the hub along with the stuck rotor should come loose. Right? Is there anything inside and behind the hub that would preventing it coming out my way?
The half shaft sits inside and the bearing on the outside. The first task would be to push in the shaft and pull/swing out the hub till the shaft exits out of the hub. The splines have lot more contact area and I am betting that it would be hard to separate them. But you never know.
Are you truly swinging the sledge hammer or just trying to tap it loose? When I wail on a rotor it has dents and gashes in it that I don't see on yours. Hit it with the intent to break it (we used to break drums back in the day).
More than 3 days of rains gave me no work on the drive way. Meanwhile, more penetrant cans came in as well as many parts.
Rain finally gave up to a sunny afternoon and I managed getting some work done in early evening with day light.
I held the sledge about 2 feet away from the rotor and then strike many times on the break surface all around. The rotor did not gave in. I then proceed to spray more newly arrived penetrants all around and started drill holes and used rotary with 1.5 in cutting disk to cut through between the drill holes.
The rotor now is mostly separated from the hub neck. I sprayed more penetrans in to the openings and holes, waited for about 30 minutes and applied the sledge again all around the break surfaces as before. The rotor still stays stuck stubbornly on the hub.
I am going to spray more penetrants behind the holes and openings through the evening. Then pick up the work tomorrow evening.
I was expecting some hammer imprints on the rotor. Are you able to get a good mo on the hammer. Mere pendulum action won't do much.
Salim
That's what I was referring to in my previous post. There's no way to be laying into a rotor with a sledge hammer and not do some serious damage to the rotor. You should be breaking into the fins and leaving huge indentations all over it. It's that point of no return when you destroy the rotor to get it loose. It's pretty clear that the outside surface of that rotor hasn't taken even one solid hit.
Almost forgot to mention ... strike round 6 or 12 O clock of the rotor. Spin a bit and wack it again. [I would have expected lug nuts to be on the threads .. to protect them].
Why 6 or 12 ... other areas would transfer the hit on to the steering components.
I strike mostly near the edge of the rotor and impact dents are everywhere. I have not used extreme force - as I have stated before, I lift the sledge about 2-3 feet away and strike on the edge. Sprayed more penetrants in later afternoon and waited to the early evening before making rotated 20-some sledge strikes. Sadly, no effect.
It just occurred to me to stick my head in to the wheel well and spray penetrants behind. It looks though the back is all rusted up and don't see the line between rotor and hub.
I am going to spray more penetrants - one can is gone already - this evening and work on it tomorrow morning - while having my head in to the wheel well and sprayed penetrants I guess I inhaled more vapor than my body could tolerate: a little head heavy now.
Carguy's advice is good. But can you get the swing at it from the rear.
Also I see a crack developing or is it just a shade. If it is a crack then make blows to flex it back and fort and then it will break off. Once a piece is off then you can use chisel to get in-between.
Rust has really worked its way into the things.
Think ahead and once the rotor is off ... do you plan to change the whole hub or wire brush it down and then put a rust protector.
09-23-18, 11:47 AM
