salimshah

In the first post it is mentioned the threads are busted. Cutting new threads is a possibility but I think hammer, penetrant and time should move it.

Salim

caseyatbt

You are right! I missed it on my first read through. Thanks.
I guess it would be wise to soak it with penetrating oil before using the bolts so I don't run the risk of stripping them as well.

brook41

Lexmus

Chenxingha,

Once you get the rotors off, you will need to remove the rust on the hubs so the new rotors sit flat and do not wobble. Something like this will make the job easier. After rust removal, I also recommend spraying the hub face with Fluid Film to protect the new rotor from corroding and sticking to the hub. It is a thick lubricant that many who live in the snow belt swear by to reduce/prevent rusting. It is also available at Lowes and other locations.

caseyatbt

Both of those links point to the same item. Lubricant/Corrosion Inhibitor.

Lexmus

Caseyatbt,

thanks. The first link is now fixed.

chenxingha

Thank and oOrdered.

chenxingha

Caseyatbt:

My understanding is that the 2 small threaded holes are designed for rotor removal as a standard procedure. In my case, the 2 threads were M8 x 1.25 and both got busted when I started removing the rotor. I have M9 x 1 and M9 x 1.25 from my Tap & Die set - both are the sink-to-bottom type, not the typical long-and-pointed type. Due to the rotor still fully seated on the hub, these 2 taps may give 3 turns of threads at most. But I am unable to find M9 x 1 and M9 x 1.25 bolts in local hardware stores.

While waiting for the above Hub Removal/Install kit to arrive, I am trying with penetrant (several kinds) + hammer. The best option could be the Hub Removal/Install kit which appears to use another standard procedure - hence less stress on the other components such as bearing and housing.

This vehicle is an old vehicle of more than 18 years. It is always in the back of my mind that if I don't do things in the right way other parts could be damaged or broken easily, potentially leading to a snow balling repair job.

chenxingha

Thanks. I will see if I can find long bolts in local hardware stores.

carguy07

NEVER use this method! Very well known as a great way to crack/break the ears off of the caliper mounts. Do that and you have a real problem.


This is what can happen:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...o-replace.html










.

carguy07

A hub removal tool will not do anything. It has no way to apply force to the rotor.

This works great if you can find one large enough.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IQ8...ature=youtu.be

carguy07

At this point you either need to get a big 3 jaw puller or BFH and use a little MAP gas to heat the rotor hat. You don't have to hit it from behind the rotor, just heat it up and get the hammer moving with some momentum. It will pop off after a few solid hits.

chenxingha

My local AutoZone doesn't have the jaw puller large enough to attach to the rotor.

According to the illustration on the Hub Removal/Install set above, I can attach the tool with the hub nuts. If this doable, the hub would come off with the rotor on it and it would cost me only additional about $30 to get a new hub.

chenxingha

I did get 2 long M12 x 1.75 bolts and nuts to try. As the force went so great I stopped, thinking about in the same line of it might break the 2 cast iron ears on the housing.

chenxingha

Day 3: continue to spray penetrants on the center circle and applied hammer - no movement of the rotor. Too much wind on the drive way, so touch the rotor hat is not an option for now. I am going to other stores for a sledge hammer.