related but slightly off topic.

GS400 diriver side actuator goes bad. Looked up the GS400 CL and found name and make of replaceable motor. It is a dropin and the seller claims that the same motor fits in RX.

I found replacing the actuator motor for GS to be not difficult. It does involve removing the door latch (which houses the actuator motor). This step is lot easier in GS than in SC. There was one step of cutting open a plastic shell and other than that the process was very easy. If I was to weigh adding on a piggy back vs replacing motor in GS, I would say go replace the motor.

I have not taken out the door lock mechanism in RX so all I can say is that piggyback solution seems easier.

Note: Each door may present a unique access problem.

Salim

 

I just performed this over the weekend and attached the actuator cable to the end of the existing. Unfortunately I ran into two areas to watch out for. The plastic piece on the esisting cable that attaches to the lock lever broke. I repaired it by using small cable ties one around the end of the cable and the second one through the first tie and into the lock latch. The second area is instead of filing the new wire to hook it onto the lever I used a 4 in grinder to flatten the wire. Took 1 and half hours. Works great.

 

I looked into this possibility but after going the piggy back method opening up the old actuator is a waste of time. I did the piggy back method in 1 and a half hours and you don't even have to remove the mechanism from the door. Hope this helps.

 

Is this the right motor..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=270724961886
selling for a buck each and shipping is $10. Says no brass tip, but the old motor's brass tip can be used? Planning to buy 4 or 5. Don't want to spend a lot of money for this thing and that saving is motivating enough to do my first DIY.

Edit: don't let me order more than 1. duh..

 

Looks like the right one. Also looks like the price is $11. with FREE shipping!
You do realize you'll have to split the electro-welded case apart to replace the motor, right?

 

yes code..either this route or the piggyback route. reading all these threads here. whatever it takes to not spend ~$400 for this. Sometimes we are forgetting to lock the door manually and is risky.

 

I ordered the Mabushi motors on eBay. Plug-n-play. Just had to cut the container open which was too easy. Both doors done in just over two hours at a cost of $16 instead of the $280 each the dealer wanted just for parts!

 

I like the piggyback route, but when the correct motors are available to replace the motor in the original actuator, I would probably go that route. Did you mean in your one post that they would only let you order one at a time? Thereby getting $10. shipping on each motor that costs them about $1. to ship. It's a common way for the seller to get around paying the proper e-bay fee. McCloud was correct in that it's not hard to split the fused actuator housing apart. The 3 that I did split apart didn't always split right on the seam, but pretty close, and then I just super glued 'em back together.

 

I have to search for the DIY photos of the replacing the motor method. Did you already post them somewhere?
Yes, it was $1 for the motor and $10 for the shipping and it won't let me order more than 1. So each would be $11. There are other sellers selling 4 of them for $26 or so with free shipping.

 

Look at the rx300 -- door panel removal DIY.
Then go look at GS400 forum for door lock actuator DIY
You should be able to figure out the process. Given McClouds attestation, just roll up the sleeves and do it.

If you can take pictures please post a DIY. Be the first for RX

Last of all remember to disconnect the battery. [GS DIY talks about moving the glass and you will need power] but when not in need do remove the gnd. The driver dooor lock has a position where all windows roll down and I accidentally activated it ... luckily my fingers/hands and rods were not in the way. So be careful.

As you read any DIY you have to apply your sense and there are times when you can improve on the DIY procedure. Yes there is misinformation on the net.

I will repeat that piggy back is the easiest option of all.

Salim

 

No Kasak, no pictures posted of the motor replacement because I didn't replace them! I learned how to do what I did the hard way, before they started to post about the piggyback or replacing the motor. This was in May, '06 and the car was going to Seattle for an extended time because of our grandson's leukemia. I actually replaced all 4 with donated Ford actuators from CV's. They were mounted down in the the door like the factory often mounts them and connected to the actuator mechanism conventionally via existing holes in the actuator mechanism. They actually looked factory. I didn't want to spend the $1300. that Lexus wanted for the PARTS!
I cut 3 of the 4 door locks apart to see if I could clean them up and tighten the brush holders to make them work. (I have always been of the theory that if man made it, I can fix it) These Tinker Toy motors were made for a tinker toy and the brushes were so completely worn out, there was no fix! I glued them back together because I soon learned that they had to be in place for the contact strips inside to do their interacting with ALL the other things they interact with, even if you installed aux. power to do the job they were no longer able to.
It is actually a pretty easy thing to do to split the actuator housing and replace the motor. It's more work to get it out and put it back.
It is easier overall to do the piggyback method. IF you do that, DO NOT take anything apart INSIDE the door. Some people have chosen not to read the VERY GOOD piggy back instructions and look at the pictures on this forum AND ANOTHER Lexus forum and have only cost themselves a LOT of extra work AND confusion.
Salim brings up a GOOD point about disconnecting the battery cable. I wasn't aware of ALL the interconnection with the drivers door actuator and sunroof and other systems. In moving the actuator to get it out I moved the rod for the outside lock and the window went up automatically and caught the cables for the lock and latch and cost me an extra $40.+ to REPLACE them. Thanks for that reminder Salim!
If you need any more help. please ask, there are plenty here who have been down this road and will be glad to help.

PS I have done a number of them since I did my DIL's RX, for others so I am familiar with the PB method and have written quite a bit on it also. One of my write-ups (with pictures) is on the OTHER Lexus forum.

 

One more advice ...

Leave the door panel off for couple of days and test out your solution.

Salim

 

I'll copy and past my post from the other forum; i installed the aftermarket actuator on the rear driver's side door this past summer:

Okay, So I just finished my Left rear door. Took much longer than anticipated but I tried to make it as simple as possible and I'm sure I did. I attached the rod onto a circular positive terminal type of socket (it was small, not the type you use on cars). Then I attached that onto the thumb driven lock. It turned out fantastic, the longest part was mounting the damn actuator cause it was in a terrible place, but it came out fantastic. I think the way that I did is the easiest I've seen, well at least for the Rear door.
I'd also like to give a special thanks to everyone ont his forum and the other lexus owners forum that helped me do this, and save a whole lot of money.

 

Here's two more pictures:

 

Direct replacement motors are available from Digi-Key. Original IS250 motor is the PAN14EE 12AB (9k RPM), replacement is the PAN14EE 12AA1 (12k RPM). Took me about 45 minutes to do a replacement on the right rear door.