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Door lock actuator motor replaceable???

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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 03:09 AM
  #16  
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My rear RHS door isn't locking it unlocks. I have seen central locking kits for sale for about $20 which may or may not suit. I really haven't tried to fix it yet. I have another car which has similar locks pontiac fiero so may see if they could be suited either way.
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 01:05 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Australian
My rear RHS door isn't locking it unlocks. I have seen central locking kits for sale for about $20 which may or may not suit. I really haven't tried to fix it yet. I have another car which has similar locks pontiac fiero so may see if they could be suited either way.
If it LOCKS but doesn't UNLOCK, it's not the lock motor. That is if it locks strong but doesn't make any effort to unlock. It is in the contacts in the switch or elsewhere, but not in the lock motor.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 02:58 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by code58
May I ask where you have located them? The company (Mabuchi) makes tons of little tiny motors like that but are normally only sold to manufacturers who use them in various rechargeable devices and door locks and such.
I sourced them from eBay. Just type in FC280PC-22125 and you will see plenty of prices and options. Not the real MABUCHI motors, but made in CHINA (of course like everything else now). Cheapest I found was about $8 shipped each.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 2002RX300
I sourced them from eBay. Just type in FC280PC-22125 and you will see plenty of prices and options. Not the real MABUCHI motors, but made in CHINA (of course like everything else now). Cheapest I found was about $8 shipped each.
The REAL Mabuchi motors ARE made in China. When I cut them apart in my DIL's RX, they were definitely all original, and all made in China. As a mater of fact I have taken small (similar but not identical Mabuchi) motors out of other rechargeable and DC and AC devices and they were ALL made in China. And her RX is a '99 built in about June, '98.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by code58
The REAL Mabuchi motors ARE made in China. When I cut them apart in my DIL's RX, they were definitely all original, and all made in China. As a mater of fact I have taken small (similar but not identical Mabuchi) motors out of other rechargeable and DC and AC devices and they were ALL made in China. And her RX is a '99 built in about June, '98.
Good to know, I thought they were just some cheap knockoff built in CHINA. But now I see Mabuchi Motors is manufacturing 100% of its products overseas.

BTW: you keep referring to DIL, what or who is DIL?
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 11:27 PM
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BTW: you keep referring to DIL, what or who is DIL?
Daughter-in-law
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 08:45 PM
  #22  
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Well, I hate to say it, but I am going to have to dig into this DIY myself. Yes, my 2000 RX300 front passenger side door lock no longer actuates. With some trepidation I am reading, searching (did that code58), and learning how to do this. I guess I am going to try and get four of the actuators (maybe five as I will probably screw one up...) and will then have three in case other doors break. Wish me luck down in San Diego, CA!
Nick V
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 01:04 PM
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I have been looking at the different piggy back ideas and sounds very good, but I have one question. Why not just hook up the new actuator to the door manual lock mechanism above the interior door handle being the rod is already in place and you would be using the same cam anyway? In other words mount the new actuator as shown in the photo but fasten the two rods together and you won't have to worry about the cam locking lever housing.
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 03:23 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jemilleron
I have been looking at the different piggy back ideas and sounds very good, but I have one question. Why not just hook up the new actuator to the door manual lock mechanism above the interior door handle being the rod is already in place and you would be using the same cam anyway? In other words mount the new actuator as shown in the photo but fasten the two rods together and you won't have to worry about the cam locking lever housing.
When you open it (or by looking at the pictures) you will know that there is no rod that attaches to the thumb-lock-lever (right next to the release handle).

The DIY is to attach the rod (piggy back) to the thumb-lever.

Salim
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 10:35 PM
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Salim is correct, there is no existing rod, it's a very thin cable. That's why you need to attach the rod to the fitting ON THE END OF THE CABLE.
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 03:02 AM
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I want to thank code58 for all the information you have added to this thread. Your time and information is greatly appreciated. Thank you! As for everyone else, thank you for adding to this discussion. There is nothing more empowering than for us to share what we know.

My 2000 RX front driver door lock died three years ago and the passenger front door died a year later. The back doors are the only ones that work at this time. I have been searching for a reasonable fix all this time. I have only had the driver's door off and on my work bench. It looked like to me the yoke was broken and thus the cables could not be actuated. I can still make the actuator turn so...I wonder.

As for me, I worked for Bosch as a mechanical engineer so I can see what you are saying when it comes to installation. I have to tell you, we made all the electrical motors and actuators for a ton of Ford/Lincoln/Mercury/Chrysler/Dodge/Mazda/Nissan and they were built to last the average life of a vehicle which at that time was 18.4 years. Our test showed better results so when you say the actuators shouldn't fail...I think you are right. Those suckers are almost bullet proof. As for the aftermarket ones, those look simple and solid as well. You should never have to open those door panels again. As for the Lexus door actuators...I have never seen such a cheap piece of crap in my whole life! I’ve seen cheap toys with better actuators/motors in them. Lexus should be ashamed to let that production run go so long without a change. It makes me want to look at the BMW X3 when I get ready to replace it. Thanks Toyota.
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 03:29 AM
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code58 I just read your reply on another thread on the details of what you found on your DILs RX. Noted. I know you are right now. The yoke is not broken as I thought before. The motor is just worn out. Thank you again.
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 08:27 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by McCloud
I want to thank code58 for all the information you have added to this thread. Your time and information is greatly appreciated. Thank you! As for everyone else, thank you for adding to this discussion. There is nothing more empowering than for us to share what we know.

My 2000 RX front driver door lock died three years ago and the passenger front door died a year later. The back doors are the only ones that work at this time. I have been searching for a reasonable fix all this time. I have only had the driver's door off and on my work bench. It looked like to me the yoke was broken and thus the cables could not be actuated. I can still make the actuator turn so...I wonder.

As for me, I worked for Bosch as a mechanical engineer so I can see what you are saying when it comes to installation. I have to tell you, we made all the electrical motors and actuators for a ton of Ford/Lincoln/Mercury/Chrysler/Dodge/Mazda/Nissan and they were built to last the average life of a vehicle which at that time was 18.4 years. Our test showed better results so when you say the actuators shouldn't fail...I think you are right. Those suckers are almost bullet proof. As for the aftermarket ones, those look simple and solid as well. You should never have to open those door panels again. As for the Lexus door actuators...I have never seen such a cheap piece of crap in my whole life! I’ve seen cheap toys with better actuators/motors in them. Lexus should be ashamed to let that production run go so long without a change. It makes me want to look at the BMW X3 when I get ready to replace it. Thanks Toyota.
Here is my personal experience, [should not be generalized]
95 sc400 (actuator gone bad)
98 BMW 328i (actuator gone bad) ... effort to replace 1/3

Salim
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 11:43 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by McCloud
I want to thank code58 for all the information you have added to this thread. Your time and information is greatly appreciated. Thank you! As for everyone else, thank you for adding to this discussion. There is nothing more empowering than for us to share what we know.

My 2000 RX front driver door lock died three years ago and the passenger front door died a year later. The back doors are the only ones that work at this time. I have been searching for a reasonable fix all this time. I have only had the driver's door off and on my work bench. It looked like to me the yoke was broken and thus the cables could not be actuated. I can still make the actuator turn so...I wonder.

As for me, I worked for Bosch as a mechanical engineer so I can see what you are saying when it comes to installation. I have to tell you, we made all the electrical motors and actuators for a ton of Ford/Lincoln/Mercury/Chrysler/Dodge/Mazda/Nissan and they were built to last the average life of a vehicle which at that time was 18.4 years. Our test showed better results so when you say the actuators shouldn't fail...I think you are right. Those suckers are almost bullet proof. As for the aftermarket ones, those look simple and solid as well. You should never have to open those door panels again. As for the Lexus door actuators...I have never seen such a cheap piece of crap in my whole life! I’ve seen cheap toys with better actuators/motors in them. Lexus should be ashamed to let that production run go so long without a change. It makes me want to look at the BMW X3 when I get ready to replace it. Thanks Toyota.
Mr McC- I am assuming from what you've said that you cut the actuator housing open. (assumption based on comment on quality of motor). If you took the motor apart and looked at the brushes, you can see why they only last a few years, rather than the life of the car.
I actually figured out the piggyback method when I had to replace all 4 on my DIL's RX. 2 were bad, 1 intermittent and 1 working so I replaced all 4. Explanation of what was going on in family crisis is noted earlier. I can't claim originality in coming up with piggyback, because my piggyback on DIL's RX was more like factory in cars where it is truly a separate installation, not part of the lock. I realized that the original lock assembly had to remain in place to accommodate all the other functions it performs. I used donated Ford actuators and they are still going strong at going on 5 years now. It was only later that I started doing the "easier" piggyback when someone on one of the Lexus forums did it that way and I realized it was simpler. I have done a # of them that way and must give credit to the man who saw a way that I didn't see. My wife laughs when I say I am a "recovering" perfectionist, but it's actually true.

Good luck to ALL who have not crossed this bridge yet. The $1300. they wanted for the 4 locks from Lexus, plus tax, was ALL the motivation I needed.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 12:18 AM
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Thanks again to Sali and Code58. You guys are great!

I may be late to this game but it has occoured to me that the failure rate of these actuators are excellerated by the use of the doors. In other words, the constant use and the shock of slamming the doors may play a role in how soon the actuator will fail.
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