artbuc

Replaced the driver's front door lock actuator (piggy back solution) last year and all has been well until this week. Wife said door locks were acting funny. Also, a couple times security alarm went off when she attempted to unlock car with her key fob. Security alarm also went off once when she inserted key in the ignition switch. I assumed the new actuator was failing considering one of the two actuators I bought was DOA. I asked her to use the manual key. All was well for a couple days. This morning she inserted the manual key in the ignition switch and the door locks locked and unlocked.

Maybe the new actuator isn't completely opening/closing the driver's door lock and satisfying the proximity switch(es). Would that explain the security alarm going off? Why would the act of inserting the manual key in the ignition switch lock/unlock the doors? Thanks.

code58

Artbuc- May be right about the proximity switches not being satisfied. It should be easy to see if the lock is moving far enough though (if it is working) just by watching from the right side to see if the inside lock **** is going full travel. If it is, the problem is obviously in the proximity switch or computer (or possibly elsewhere in a complicated system). The juice still has to travel through the drivers main switch or at least the electronics of that switch doesn't it?, even with remote? If I remember correctly, the lock cable has grooves around the end that snaps into the handle housing to adjust the travel of the ****. I think that might also affect the travel of the contacts in the original electrosealed lock housing. Just a thought. Dil's are still working flawlessly (all 4) after almost 3 years. Course they were Ford locks, maybe that had something to do with it. LOL

artbuc

One of the actuator mounting screws came loose and the linkage was binding. Repositioned to get better clearance and a more direct action. All seems to be well now.

code58

I was wondering if it wasn't something along that line. Glad to hear it was that simple!

salimshah

My post is a bit late as by now you have closed the door.

One thing to worry would be the failure of the piggy back actuator. [Here a mounting screw was the issue]. A few weeks back there was another post on failure to release the lock.

All I am trying to say is, take a harder look at the solution. Some times a simple/cheaper fix can be a major headache when it fails.

Salim

artbuc

I agree with your point generally, but not as it applies to this problem. My issue had nothing to do with the intrinsic value or adequacy of the piggy back solution. The aftermarket actuators are as good or better than the factory actuators.

code58

Salim- I respect your opinion but feel that a major percentage of those that visit this board benefit tremendously from the "piggyback solution". The cost to replace even 1 lock that has failed is no small amount at the dealer ($500.-$600.) Two were failing on my DIL's RX and a third starting to act up. Since I was footing all the costs for repairs of this plus many other mechanical challenges while my son and DIL were dealing with the extreme costs of a true medical crisis, I simply had to find another way to deal with it. Some working people may be able to afford these kind of costs and still eat, but it puts an undue hardship on many. I for one am grateful for the fix, though I had to figure it out on my own by necessity, before I found this forum. My gratitude is that others that aren't able to afford it have an option. I suspicion that those that can easily afford don't visit forums like this. The 2 instances that I am aware of have both been installation mistakes. All 4 of my DIL's still function flawlessly at about 3 years now. Thanks for being part of those that contribute to the solutions that people come to the forum seeking, Salim.
Have a great day!

MellonC00

I just replaced mine at a local repair shop. The total bill was about $430. I can confirm that the dealer would have charged me 2 hours of labor at $105/hour and $287 for the part plus California sales tax on the part. I think I saved about $100 by going with a local mechanic but I, obviously, could have saved more if went with the Ebay solution. I just didn't have the time and the skills necessary to do the job myself.....

Judging by the number of posts regarding the door lock actuator I am assuming this is about the time when 2001 and 2000 models start to have these problems. I wonder what will come up next

upther

I did the fix on my 2001 RX and it took me about 2 hours. I probably would have been faster if I wasn't so worried about my beer getting warm in the sun.

salimshah

Sorry I did not respond earlier ...

I am not poo pooing the piggy back solution. It seems a very cost effective and working/workable solution.

I was alluding to:
When things are engineered, there is some emphasis on "what happens in case of failure" [or at least I hope there is]. When it deals with egress, some thinking must be done. So if the electronic lock fails, the release lever must be capable of overriding it. I was trying to encourage people who the did the add on, to think about a slider option instead of a rigid connection. That would allow the rods to move when the add on malfunction (electronic and or mechanical).

Salim

code58

Salim- with the use of the generic actuator (piggyback style) as long as the installation is done correctly, there is no problem moving the lock linkage (in this case unlock) with either the inside lock **** or the key in the outside lock. Have a great weekend!