Started up my RC 350 F Sport 2015 after doing a very simple upper control arm install and the battery nearly died in the process (but it did not)
after getting the car to start on its own I was greeted with

“Brake Malfunction”
”Check DRS”
”Check ABS”
“Check VGRS”
”Check PCS”
A Traction Control light
The “BRAKE” Light

This was a very easy install. caution was taken to ensure no wires or lines were not pinched, cut, or pulled on while installing.
I have tried disconnecting the negative for 30 minutes but to no prevail.

 

IMO, Check your battery. A discharged / weak battery can cause your dash to light up like a Christmas tree.

 

I'm 100% going with bad battery. You should see what a bad gas cap will do with these cars.

 

This exactly what i was thinking but wanted to come here for reassurance if anyone had had this same issue before. do you think this could be the case despite the car starting up fine now with the current battery?

 

Awesome thanks for the input this is exactly what i was thinking. Mind enlightening me on what a loose or faulty gas cap does to the car? Id like to learn all the ins and outs of it if possible. Also do you think regardless of the car still starting up fine since then the battery could still be putting out that improper of voltage to cause all the malfunctions?

 

Good luck and let us know if the new battery solved your issue.

 

So i just got a new battery and the car starts up just fine. naturally it stalled after letting the car sit for 2 hours before hooking up the new battery but after 2 hours of sitting with the negative off of the terminal and rehooking it up the lights are all still present, do i need to drive the car perhaps? The dealership confirmed it was a bad battery upon testing. thought im not going through them to fix the car to reduce costs

 

I'm going to suggest something that my electrical engineer son says to me when diagnosing electrical issues after a "repair" ....."Where were the humans last?" As an EE at GE he is no longer surprised at the number of times something remotely possible has become possible because of a simple "gotcha" comes back to haunt a technician's simple error.
I am willing to bet (BIG bucks) there is no coincidence the control arm install is the reason for you're seeing the dash warning lights. Especially since they seem to all relate to a wheel speed sensor problem, or related to braking, stability control, etc.
Somehow, someway there is probably a loose/not fully plugged in connection, ground, pinched wire, or similar issue. I would definitely go back and short of undoing everything you did with the control arm - inspect, take a good hard look and check everything you touched or might somehow be related to what you touched. Been there, done that.
Again, even if it may not seem possible you did something, it is at least a quadruple check before you spend $$$ at the dealer service dept.
Keep us posted......and good luck.

 

Thanks so much for this reply I just read it.

Update: Used a scanner and checked for abs fault codes. sure enough there was a code for the rear left hand (driver rear) wheel speed / abs sensor. After researching how much they cost I inspected the abs wire after taking it off the car.

i noticed a 1/4” long soft / stretched part of the wire. I cut it open with a razor blade and both the power and ground wires were torn within the outer rubber. I reconnected the two wires and heat shrank over it and put it back in the car and immediately with an ecu reset or driving the car ever light turned off on the dash. All is good .

 

That's great ! ! ! Thanks for the update

 

Nice work! Using the heatshrink on wires that get concealed is the best way to finish off that repair.
I still keep a hair dryer around the house, even though I have no hair; I have it for guests and for shrinkwrap.