Lq4/lq9 swaps
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: Aug 2017
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From: CA
Lq4/lq9 swaps
Hey guys I'm new to this forum and I've looked through a lot of the threads pertaining to swaps but I haven't seen anything on a possible lq swap for a gs300. Has anyone heard of one or if it's possible. Thanks guys
What in specific are you wondering? I swapped a 4.8 in my gs, but a 6.0 or 5.3 liter is going to take up the exact same space as my little v8.
I have proved the truck manifold CAN fit under the hood. You'll want a GTO oil pan, but good luck with headers!
If you're swapping..... Post pics!
I have proved the truck manifold CAN fit under the hood. You'll want a GTO oil pan, but good luck with headers!
If you're swapping..... Post pics!
I used a $100 Chevy Colorado AR5 trans with a modified factory bell housing. But that's a truck tranny so It shifts like a truck
Possible, but I would guess not by much.
The CG is farther back, if the bellhousing position is same.
For a high boost engine (1,000 hp) I think iron is preferred, but for NA the weight saving of aluminum block is huge. Look at the money spent on carbon fiber, titanium in terms of $ per lb.
Shifts like a truck, meaning effort, or ratio spread?
The CG is farther back, if the bellhousing position is same.
For a high boost engine (1,000 hp) I think iron is preferred, but for NA the weight saving of aluminum block is huge. Look at the money spent on carbon fiber, titanium in terms of $ per lb.
Shifts like a truck, meaning effort, or ratio spread?
1st gear is 3.75 so its less than ideal for most sports cars. I have a GS430 diff though, so I can hit 45mph in 1st.
As for the weight difference, I've researched that the 2jz and iron block LS engines are within 50 lbs of eachother. Negligible. If you were swapping your Caterham or lotus, I could understand spending the extra scratch. But not a lexus
That 1st gear is how the 6MT Supra V161 with 3.742:1 pulls that 3.13:1 axle. Of course, it's nearly useless with mid-3.00 gears and up.
The 1-2 shift RPM loss is almost identical between the V161 and AR5.
After its warmed up, you can tug on that shifter
That suggests something is binding, has it been apart? Linkage rubbing something? Have you tried adjusting the clutch? Any chance of thrust washers being swapped, non-OEM gaskets used?
WRT weight: I know people who have cheerfully spend $10. per pound to drop weight, and it wasn't in the nose.
The 1-2 shift RPM loss is almost identical between the V161 and AR5.
After its warmed up, you can tug on that shifter
That suggests something is binding, has it been apart? Linkage rubbing something? Have you tried adjusting the clutch? Any chance of thrust washers being swapped, non-OEM gaskets used?
WRT weight: I know people who have cheerfully spend $10. per pound to drop weight, and it wasn't in the nose.
I guess the ratios arent terrible. It has a decent overdrive of .73.
It was a junkyard trans with 80k miles on it, all I did was space the throwout bearing/slave out to allow full disengagement of the clutch. It does fully disengage, but I thought that the disc takes a while to spin down. The shift lever isnt rubbing on anything. I am considering taking it apart this winter to check out my synchros and may try the Hummer H3 Carbon synchros... This trans has triple cone synchros I expected It to perform better.
I should also mention that my shift lever is goofy. I should make an actual extension but its really just a long lever.
I bought some Amsoil 75w90 MTF yesterday as a last resort. I'll put that in soon and maybe It will be a whole new tranny! I seriously doubt that...
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