http://www.torquerush.com/index.html

 

"The majority of issues we hear about are with engine swaps and transplants. Ensure that all wiring, ground connections and powerup sequences are correct. The PCM and TAC module must be powered and shutdown together. Ensure that matching parts have been used. e.g.2003-2005 truck PCM/TAC module and pedal will work together, but are not compatible with 2006-2007 parts."
that is from that websites faq section. it seems that the newer throttle body also need the newer fly by wire module and pedal. hmmmm

 

I believe the gen 4 throttles had no tac module. Straight to the pcm. After talking with my pappy, it seems more logical that current would be the measured value in this setup. That's how Allen Bradley plc systems work, because it's more accurate.

You're right BBGS, I go turbo and throttle diameter won't matter!

 

So I finally dove in and started actually tuning the VE and MAF tables of my Chevy engine. I've been running on a hacked tune from someone else's 5.3 with a cam but not anymore!

I'm learning a lot about it but have much more to go. I've made sure my stoich AFR is 14.7, and my power enrichment stays around 12.8 all the way to redlne. I'm commanding 28 degrees of timing now versus the original like 18? No knock retard either but its been 35 degrees out...

I think I can say my 0-60 time is less than 5 seconds, she's running strong now.

 

 

 

 

 

$200 score today

 

 

Got more words to go along with your pretty pictures???

j/k

Looks much better lower!

 

I do, 4 of them to be precise.

I NEED AN ALIGNMENT!

Lol thanks, it does appear more sporty. I'm not terribly sure what models they are but one set of tanabe springs is df210, i think that's the front?

Anyway, it's a very smooth stock like ride with the KYB GR2s, which I'm happy with. What I'm not happy with is the negative camber. I realize it's nothing like some cars on here, but I'm super paranoid of screwing up one of my wheels, or eating the insides of my tires. Today i pushed the rear camber adjustment bolts all the way in to gain back as much as possible. Still leans in some.

Maybe it's a non issue, I've been reading that toe is more detrimental to tire wear than camber. Either way, my steering wheel is crooked now, so i need an alignment.

 

If you're looking for performance you should go for something conservative like -0.5° front and -1.0° rear. A small amount of camber is not going to wear your tires out much faster and like you said toe is killer. Even a small amount of toe will destroy tires in no time. Depending on what tires you have I've gotten over 30k on a set of performance tires like conti DWS with camber settings like that.

 

I got the beast aligned today, guy says i shouldn't need to buy adjustable toe arms, but camber arms yes. With maxed out settings, I'm at -1.7 front for both, and -1.9 and -2.1 in the back.

Gonna be searching for adjustable control arms and re do the whole suspension with new parts.

Body is at 225k miles after all...

 

Thanks for posting this link on the Sloppy page What an awesome build dude.
How's she holding up?

Check out those ball joints too!