Photon's GS300 Turbo project
stock view, buttons are taked off ..

open ashtray ..

insert first control panel ..

open hand box ..

take second control panel ..

buttons are ready to use ..

It is very convenient, if it is necessary - buttons near at hand, are normally fixed and don't dangle.
On video (removed a mobile phone in the dark interior) it is not visible appointment inscriptions almost, but in real they are perfectly read on illumination.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skJ4aQuhUaw

open ashtray ..

insert first control panel ..

open hand box ..

take second control panel ..

buttons are ready to use ..

It is very convenient, if it is necessary - buttons near at hand, are normally fixed and don't dangle.
On video (removed a mobile phone in the dark interior) it is not visible appointment inscriptions almost, but in real they are perfectly read on illumination.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skJ4aQuhUaw
Your car has come a long ways since we first talked a few years ago. It looks great now!
A few questions. Why the dry sump system? I saw in your list that you have the BC 264 Cams. They only make power until around 7200-7500rpm range and they start to drop power after that. I currently have those in one of my cars and it's pretty good for a street car setup. The stock oiling system is perfectly capable of handling these RPM. The dry sump is a good choice, but I am just curious of your decision to spend all that extra money for the dry sump if it is not 100% necessary.
And what are all the buttons/control panel inside the car for?
A few questions. Why the dry sump system? I saw in your list that you have the BC 264 Cams. They only make power until around 7200-7500rpm range and they start to drop power after that. I currently have those in one of my cars and it's pretty good for a street car setup. The stock oiling system is perfectly capable of handling these RPM. The dry sump is a good choice, but I am just curious of your decision to spend all that extra money for the dry sump if it is not 100% necessary.
And what are all the buttons/control panel inside the car for?
Your car has come a long ways since we first talked a few years ago. It looks great now!
A few questions. Why the dry sump system? I saw in your list that you have the BC 264 Cams. They only make power until around 7200-7500rpm range and they start to drop power after that. I currently have those in one of my cars and it's pretty good for a street car setup. The stock oiling system is perfectly capable of handling these RPM. The dry sump is a good choice, but I am just curious of your decision to spend all that extra money for the dry sump if it is not 100% necessary.
And what are all the buttons/control panel inside the car for?
A few questions. Why the dry sump system? I saw in your list that you have the BC 264 Cams. They only make power until around 7200-7500rpm range and they start to drop power after that. I currently have those in one of my cars and it's pretty good for a street car setup. The stock oiling system is perfectly capable of handling these RPM. The dry sump is a good choice, but I am just curious of your decision to spend all that extra money for the dry sump if it is not 100% necessary.
And what are all the buttons/control panel inside the car for?
In Russia speak: "appetite comes with eating", therefore I have ceased to hurry up by all means to assemble the car from this that is, and took timeout for two years, and now you see that you see

Sure the lubricating system with a dry sump is completely not obligatory for the 700 hp street car, but I love technically correct things, besides the decision of a problem of reliable lubricant this system allows to solve qualitatively a problem of crankcase recirculation, in general perhaps - I am esthete

my buttons:
1) brake lines lock (left & right together)
2) fuel pump overrun (max output mode for my fuel pump controllers)
3) сompulsory power on the engine oil cooler fan
4) сompulsory power on the ATF cooler fan
5) activate AEM water/methanol injection system
6) activate 2 step rev limiter (AEM EMS)
7) activate launch control (AEM EMS)
8) ignition retard (AEM EMS)
Since the morning have gone to do an exhaust ..

The old exhaust had the midpipe with essential reduction of diameter of tubes (76 mm to 2 x 52 mm) ...

.. In the arch of two in one there was an additional throat, even the flange 3" contained restrictor on 60 mm, also it had no any links in a front part
..

New midpipe from Top Speed (i think it is china) strangely enough is executed quite qualitatively, ID of tubes is 61 mm and 76 mm in the arch without everyone restrictions ..

Here an arch place, hardly forward have made the link that the exhaust didn't hang on flex pipe ..

the flex pipe have arranged under 45 *, above have made fastening to the tranny ..

Unfortunately it is not visible that flanges of a reception tube and downpipe ideally have converged, but it is visible as freely left dumppipe from a rear gate ..

The old exhaust had the midpipe with essential reduction of diameter of tubes (76 mm to 2 x 52 mm) ...

.. In the arch of two in one there was an additional throat, even the flange 3" contained restrictor on 60 mm, also it had no any links in a front part
..

New midpipe from Top Speed (i think it is china) strangely enough is executed quite qualitatively, ID of tubes is 61 mm and 76 mm in the arch without everyone restrictions ..

Here an arch place, hardly forward have made the link that the exhaust didn't hang on flex pipe ..

the flex pipe have arranged under 45 *, above have made fastening to the tranny ..

Unfortunately it is not visible that flanges of a reception tube and downpipe ideally have converged, but it is visible as freely left dumppipe from a rear gate ..







Surely by now you've got it tuned and probably have a nice video pull of it!