Take it easy my friend. I know all about custom and the risk associated with it, otherwise I wouldn't have bought these headers because S&S sure isn't around anymore. I was slightly disappointed only because PPE had already 'test' fitted' these on a car. I installed a set of S&S into a GS400 for someone else about 1.5 years ago and the fitment was practically perfect, which is amazing considering S&S never even had a car to test it on. The S&S headers only took me 5 hours to install, but I have already logged over 12 on these. You've had issue with the S&S on your car because the SC manifold is different. It's understandable if you had to modify it in order to work because the S&S was based off the GS400 manifold.


Am I disappointed with my purchase? Of course not. I gained midrange power, even though I lost a bit of low end. The S&S actually felt like they increased lower end power, but they're not around anymore, I can't buy them, so PPE is the only solution out there; therefore I'm not complaining about that.

 

If you remove the steering rack from the subframe, you should have ample amount of room to play with. I used a sonicrafter (like the Fein multimaster). I stopped once in a while to put some cutting fluid on because I only had one blade and I don't to dull it. You could probably get a dremel in there though.

Paul said the car he worked on was a 1999 and it didn't have that piece there. Mine is a 1999 also and it does. So your car either has it or it doesn't. lol

 

To make things better, I got a check engine light today

Gonna check it out and see what's up.

 

Just got my headers back from PPE in the mail today. Im planning on doing the install next Friday morning. I'm going to do, Headers, Engine mounts, Tranny Mount, Daizen Control arm bushings, Passenger side valve cover gasket and an Oil Change.

HOPEFULLY, i'll have everything done by the end of friday night, but we'll see. Wish me luck.

 

You have the whole weekend for that>?

 

Let us know what you find. Maybe somthing came loose while installing?

 

If it takes the whole weekend then yes. But i'm guna try and get it done all in one day. 9am to 10pm, 13 hours seems possible? 1 hour for valve cover gasket, engine mounts, tranny mounts and headers 9 hours. Control arm bushings my buddies guna do while i'm working on the other stuff.

 

Seeing that we share the same motor could one of you answer this question I posted in the SC section?

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post6083347

 

[QUOTE=TLcoats;6083260]Just got my headers back from PPE in the mail today. Im planning on doing the install next Friday morning. I'm going to do, Headers, Engine mounts, Tranny Mount, Daizen Control arm bushings, Passenger side valve cover gasket and an Oil Change.

HOPEFULLY, i'll have everything done by the end of friday night, but we'll see. Wish me luck.


Damn, thats ALOT of work. If pulling the tranny wasnt such a PITA. Id say just pull the motor & make the header install a piece of cake. I did the install on my 400 motor like everybody else. On the ground & heat shield's being a motherfreedom. But when I did the 430 swap it was so much easier.

Sorry if I got a little loud in my previous post. I was kinda drunk & got on a rant. I like this group cause we all have something in common. And it seems we all are trying make these 2gen 1uz's faster by sharing info.

 

^ Great Pic.

 

It is great to have everyone that is actually installing headers give pointers, suggestions and comments. Very nice to have your input since you have first hand knowledge of S&S and PPE headers.

Seems like spdrcr got a set of S&S headers that were not built correctly. This happens. Quality control should catch this type of thing. Build a set of headers, check that the flange(s) did not warp, check that they FIT the friggin JIG... that is what it is FOR. As far as the exhaust leaks that is a first that I am aware of at the head flange on the S&S. Maybe if both flanges were warped the tension of bolting them flat created a weak seal at the center ports??? One of several possible reasons.

Interesting your impression of a slight loss of low end power (response?) with the PPE vs the S&S. That would be my guess based on the designs. Would really be interesing to have a back to back S&S vs PPE dyno test. Especially on an engine dyno. Actually, I know a guy that my be the perfect person to do this test... on a screw supercharged engine no less. I will get back with details if this happens. On a stock engine I would like to see peak power as well. I doubt it will differ by 2-3hp between the designs.

Personally, I would have liked to see a better collector as well as some other minor changes to the S&S. I see potential for a very torquey design that pulls more or less all the power available out of these engines (non turbo/sc/no2 applications). The set of S&S I am getting ready to install may get one or more of my tweaks!

 

^^^^ Share your tweeks john if they do some good please. I was one of the 5 last sets from S&S that PPE got. So it wasnt like PPE or S&S could do anything about them, if i sent them back but more down time & maybe still no better seal on the warpage & thats exactly what it was. Im fixing to have to do something about the exhaust leaks. They are getting worse. Its driving me insane. Nothing worse than that tic tic sound on the pulse. Im gonna try to tighten up the nuts, but thats probably not gonna do anything. After that its remove the headers then install new OEM gaskets SOAKED in copper seal coating & cross my fingers. This copper coating is something that I recommend to everyone installing headers. Usually people use this when using a paper/cardboard gasket to make it seal better. But it also can be used on the OEM metal gasket's for better protection from leakage. Something I should have done b4 installing the headers on the motor, WHILE it was on the stand in perfect EASY location. Having your car down for a month & no extra wheels, kinda make's you cut some slight corners when pushed for time.
Take a lesson, my friends.

 

PPE actually recommended using copper silicone on the gasket itself. I didn't put any on my car, but may do so eventually if I develop a leak.

 

Since mine app is an LS400 I need to make the headers longer. This presents me with the opportunity to reduce the collector volume. I have a few ideas on how I may go about this and I may even relocate the O2 sensors to the catalyst vs collector. Little trickier on the SC as you need a shorter header than even the GS uses.

Regarding your warped flanges... how warped are they? IOW if you place them against a flat surface how big is the gap? It would help to surface grind the flanges to reduce or possibily eliminate the warp. Another "trick" would be to cut the flange between the ports. This allows tightening of that port without resistance or distortion from/of the rest of the flange. Of course it may spring out even farther away depending on the tension.

For more on why a smaller collector is a good idea see what a professional NASCAR header builder has to say, clue 5.7 liter, 500hp @ 7500rpm needs 2.25" choke point. What does that say about a 4 liter, 350hp @ 6300rpm? Would have to be smaller. One of the reasons the stock 1.97" Y pipe works.
http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13443

 

I have a major leak somewhere on my ss. I may do the copper thingy