Yes, you are right like misfires. I checked, No codes, no errors, absolutely nothing.

And about O2? May be he welded it really wrong? But he did like on the picture here.

 

So may be any more opinions or advices?

Thanks.

 

I would like to see a DIY install for these

I got mine in about 2 months ago and they have been sitting in my trunk because I have been worried about installing them myself. My buddy who is a long time mechanic said he would help me but hasn't ever given me the time yet lol

The instructions that come with it just tell you to remove the peices but not how to remove them nor does it give any torque settings or anything.

Any tips or problems that anyone ran into while doing the install that they could share? Also a DIY would be great if anyone is getting ready to put them in!! Picture it up

 

https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo...g76xnwLLG9CWg6


This link will show you the TQ specs and proceedures to remove the steering link / factory parts.

It's a major PITA! To install these.

Following the instructions is the only way to do it. Remaoving the battery is a must along with the plate and the ECU under it. This will take a good 8-12 hour day on jack stands to perform. Maybe 4-8 hours on a lift.

You better have some hellagood swivel tools. The driver side top header bolts are impossable to access.

The biggest thing to remember is to retighten the bolts after @ 1000 miles. I know i'm the only one who has; I'm sure of it, but they were way off there specs after 1000miles. This involves removing the battery etc... again!

This is most likely why you'll see some owners with CEL's and others don't. Once you have and exhaust leak it will pull air in (at certain times) and screw with the O2 sensor readings causing CEL's. If you've been on this sight for a while its seems to be @ 1/2 the owners have had CEL's with headers at one point or another.

 

Did you get my PM reply? If not, here it is again. Sorry, I never made a DIY but did snap some photos.

Header Install;
Remove intake and anything else in the way.
Gain access to undercarriage of vehicle
Remove O2 sensors from intermediate pipe(s) Need O2 socket
Remove any braces holding exhaust.
Remove exhaust intermediate pipe - Rear exhaust gasket will be reused
Unplug A/F sensors from vehicle harness
Place vehicle in neutral gear position so that front drive shaft rotates freely. AWD only.
Remove front drive shaft - Add matching marks for reinstallation in same orientation. Make cardboard holder for bolt orientation. AWD Only
Remove battery to make more room.
Loosen bolts for OEM manifold. I bought new nuts from Lexus as they are easy to loose.
Remove OEM manifolds.
Remove A/F sensors from OEM manifolds and install into headers. WD-40 helps to break them loose. let soak for ~5 minutes.
Clean head area
Install headers with new gaskets or reuse old ones.
Install new header nuts and observe proper torque sequence
Plug in A/F sensors to vehicle harness
Install intermediate pipe - Tighten collector flange bolts with new gaskets first and tighten rear exhaust flange last.
Install any braces etc.. That were previously removed.
Lower vehicle
Install intake and anything else that was previously removed.
Wire SIM if used.

Do your homework and get all the TQ specs etc... that you will need. Better safe than sorry.

 

Does anyone have any solutions or advices what to do with these misfires? It's really impossible to ride( Or I have to go back to stock?

Thanks.

 

thread revival!

I have the o2 sensor extensions welded onto midpipe as shown above, and i also did the spark plug nonfouler trick to the other set of o2 sensors before that, yet I am still getting a CEL and I'm not sure what to do.

 

I think the extension welds are for the HFC now. As the o2 simulator are for those who are not running cats. Are you running HFC?

 

The extension welds are now a thing of the past. There is now an electronic solution, an o2 conditioner. Works like a charm.

Lou

 

My o2 conditioner isn't working =\ Wired it correctly and solid even had my mechanic double check it.

Getting P0159 and a "continuous" (not sure of the actual name but its not currently throwing the code) P0139.

My mechanic and I haven't been able to figure it out yet, gonna trying replacing bank 2 o2 sensor for the next step since it only throwing a code for that sensor.

 

How exactly does the o2 condtioner work/help with the car? I know it removes the CEL, but is that it, or will it affect how much fuel is being injected. Also what about emissions testing?

 

The o2 conditioner is an electronic solution. It fools the electronics into thinking the secondary sensors are seeing and measuring the correct exhaust mixture. It does not alter any metering of the fuel into the engine. As far as passing smog, if the o2 conditioner is installed properly, you don't see it, it is completely hidden under the stock wire loom covers. But, if someone goes looking for it, and they know what they are looking for, they will find it.

Lou

 

Secondary or primary sensors? I thought that the primary sensors measure the exhaust mixture, and this was what the o2 conditioner messes with.
Where I live, they don't do a visual or sniffer test, just OBDII plug in and run some tests. As long as the conditioner allows the car to pass the plug in test, I'm good to go.

 

it intercepts the signal from the secondary sensor.....the ones that tell the system that the cats arent working or are not there.

Yes it will pass a plug in obdII test. It will indicate as ready which is what they need to see.

 

does anyone have an a/f graph for the ppe headers with intake and exhaust...and stock ecu?

EDIT: it would be REALLY interesting to see one before/after install and then 1000+ miles later.