Rear door problem
I've read many topics about it here just have to discuss about few things.rear door won't close automatically,just beeps,it was intermittent before now seems permanent.long story short 》it is pinch sensor fault.(no scan,just my assumption)
So,why it fails so early?it is 2 years old car.is there updated sensor version i need to install?otherwise it will fail again.
P.S. if i unplug that sensor after it should close again right?faulty sensor says to ecu it is on so preventing door from closing.if unplugged it will be OFF,without pinch protection,ok for me ain't gonna stick things in there anaway
So,why it fails so early?it is 2 years old car.is there updated sensor version i need to install?otherwise it will fail again.
P.S. if i unplug that sensor after it should close again right?faulty sensor says to ecu it is on so preventing door from closing.if unplugged it will be OFF,without pinch protection,ok for me ain't gonna stick things in there anaway
I could ask you the same, why is my bathroom light switch keeps breaking every year that I have to constantly replace it? Things just happens OK. All you need to know is that Lexus knows about that kind of stuff, if they see that it is constant chronic issue, they will investigate the issue and change stuff and update things. You will not be unplugging anything yourself, Lexus will replace everything defective.
When these parts are failing so early it is not OK,it is a factory flaw already.my question was if Lexus updated these sensors,i don't have a warranty.i need to buy that.(will try to bypass that sensor)
..btw my 3€ bathroom light switch is working 5 years in a row.and it is ok for me if it fails anytime soon now,but not 57k car part that cost several hundreds.every 2 years.
..btw my 3€ bathroom light switch is working 5 years in a row.and it is ok for me if it fails anytime soon now,but not 57k car part that cost several hundreds.every 2 years.
It's not that Lexus is unaware of this problem. Simply unplugging something does not always equate to the ECU thinking the problem is gone. Electronic components do have the ability to provide a voltage signal that they're actually there and working but no fault is detected. The ECU nowadays is actually several components looking after major systems of the car and they all constantly 'check' and monitor these components and will set a code for discrepancies found, but not always light up anything on your dash.
Car manufacturers look to dealerships to provide them with as much data as they can get on how their cars are performing. That's one of the most important reason why warranties exist for almost everything in the world. How does the manufacturer come to know if they have a problem with anything? Well they put the onus on their dealers to keep failed parts that are removed from their cars and return them for analysis. They collect all kinds of data from doing warranty claims, how long it takes, what cars have the problem - by using VIN's which tell the manufacturer when and where every single part on that car came from right down to a plastic clip, or the oil, I sh*t you not. I've worked in the auto industry making car parts for many years and the data we had to collect and provide to them was immense. Right down to which operator performed what function, what time of day & what shift. If we tweaked a piece of automation to make a correction or improvement it had to be logged. Our identification markings we provided on each part allowed us to break all this info down if needed, to give them all the intricate changes that were present on each part. This is referred to a traceability stamp. And when a recall happens it's because they've gone over all the data of known bad parts that have been collected by dealers. This is why it's important to use a dealer to fix your car especially while it's still under warranty. This in turn helps them find the 'needle in a haystack' that helps explain what possibly went wrong. Like the recent recall of engines found in early build Tundra's that blew up because of a manufacturing process anomaly that happened during a machining process in a particular factory only.
So have the dealer fix your car, the new part and the work done will come with a warranty as well. The broken part will be analyzed and data will be gained. At some point the manufacturer(s) of the part will begin to work with Toyota to understand the problem. The suspect bad parts will most likely be returned to the manufacturer so that they can look at it and help with a solution. An updated part may be created, a TSB or Recall will follow if it's deemed to meet certain safety thresholds, new replacement parts will begin to be made, when there's enough new parts ready owners will be notified if needed, if not and your bad part fails go to your dealer they may tell you 'hey there's an updated part for that and we'll fix it for free'.
How long does this take, well sometimes over a year or so before a new part becomes available.
Be happy that you own a Toyota product, because no matter what anyone tells you, they wrote the book on quality, traceability and customer loyalty.
If you're out of warranty I would go back to the dealer and tell them it's failed. If the dealer has already fixed one part they will replace the new one if it's failed and they did the replacement. Replacement parts come with a warranty also 30,000 miles or 48 months. They will typically do a repair on 'good faith' since they know it shouldn't fail this soon.
Car manufacturers look to dealerships to provide them with as much data as they can get on how their cars are performing. That's one of the most important reason why warranties exist for almost everything in the world. How does the manufacturer come to know if they have a problem with anything? Well they put the onus on their dealers to keep failed parts that are removed from their cars and return them for analysis. They collect all kinds of data from doing warranty claims, how long it takes, what cars have the problem - by using VIN's which tell the manufacturer when and where every single part on that car came from right down to a plastic clip, or the oil, I sh*t you not. I've worked in the auto industry making car parts for many years and the data we had to collect and provide to them was immense. Right down to which operator performed what function, what time of day & what shift. If we tweaked a piece of automation to make a correction or improvement it had to be logged. Our identification markings we provided on each part allowed us to break all this info down if needed, to give them all the intricate changes that were present on each part. This is referred to a traceability stamp. And when a recall happens it's because they've gone over all the data of known bad parts that have been collected by dealers. This is why it's important to use a dealer to fix your car especially while it's still under warranty. This in turn helps them find the 'needle in a haystack' that helps explain what possibly went wrong. Like the recent recall of engines found in early build Tundra's that blew up because of a manufacturing process anomaly that happened during a machining process in a particular factory only.
So have the dealer fix your car, the new part and the work done will come with a warranty as well. The broken part will be analyzed and data will be gained. At some point the manufacturer(s) of the part will begin to work with Toyota to understand the problem. The suspect bad parts will most likely be returned to the manufacturer so that they can look at it and help with a solution. An updated part may be created, a TSB or Recall will follow if it's deemed to meet certain safety thresholds, new replacement parts will begin to be made, when there's enough new parts ready owners will be notified if needed, if not and your bad part fails go to your dealer they may tell you 'hey there's an updated part for that and we'll fix it for free'.
How long does this take, well sometimes over a year or so before a new part becomes available.
Be happy that you own a Toyota product, because no matter what anyone tells you, they wrote the book on quality, traceability and customer loyalty.
If you're out of warranty I would go back to the dealer and tell them it's failed. If the dealer has already fixed one part they will replace the new one if it's failed and they did the replacement. Replacement parts come with a warranty also 30,000 miles or 48 months. They will typically do a repair on 'good faith' since they know it shouldn't fail this soon.
Last edited by TheCDN; Nov 2, 2025 at 09:57 AM.
I had that same issue a few months back, the dealership replaced the "bad sensors" and everything started to work again, sadly, four months later, here I am, with exactly the same issue again, I'll take it to the dealership again to replace/repair the faulty sensors a second time, Lexus should know better, I'm not alone with this issue, there's a good amount of owners with this problem, I don't think Lexus is trying hard enough to mitigate this problem.
Last edited by ElChili; Nov 3, 2025 at 03:48 AM.
I've read many topics about it here just have to discuss about few things.rear door won't close automatically,just beeps,it was intermittent before now seems permanent.long story short 》it is pinch sensor fault.(no scan,just my assumption)
So,why it fails so early?it is 2 years old car.is there updated sensor version i need to install?otherwise it will fail again.
P.S. if i unplug that sensor after it should close again right?faulty sensor says to ecu it is on so preventing door from closing.if unplugged it will be OFF,without pinch protection,ok for me ain't gonna stick things in there anaway
So,why it fails so early?it is 2 years old car.is there updated sensor version i need to install?otherwise it will fail again.
P.S. if i unplug that sensor after it should close again right?faulty sensor says to ecu it is on so preventing door from closing.if unplugged it will be OFF,without pinch protection,ok for me ain't gonna stick things in there anaway
I had that same issue a few months back, the dealership replaced the "bad sensors" and everything started to work again, sadly, four months later, here I am, with exactly the same issue again, I'll take it to the dealership again to replace/repair the faulty sensors a second time, Lexus should know better, I'm not alone with this issue, there's a good amount of owners with this problem, I don't think Lexus is trying hard enough to mitigate this problem.

My 2025 NX 450+ has a rear door issue, but maybe different from what you are experiencing. It closed automatically when I do the foot gesture under the car or when I push the button on the door. But when I use the "close and lock" button, it works about 25% of the time.
What I do to make it work, I press the close and lock button, then stick my head into the trunk like I am grabbing something for a second, then I step back, and the door magically closes and locks
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I have my side mirrors set to fold in when locked. When I'm in a public parking lot that's busy I make sure to do a quick look around first, if there's anything moving within 20 feet of the car I wait till it's moving away from my car first. If anything including a person walking is heading toward my car it will most likely not close and lock. That's how sensitive this thing is. So if it all looks good I press close and lock with everything I need on me and ready. I press and start walking away immediately. Once i'm about 15 feet away I look back and if door's closed and mirrors are in I'm golden. This technique works about 90% of the time for me. So I would either step back a bit and stand still like oreon333 does or begin to walk away like I do.
You have to understand it's not that sophisticated a system, it's just using your rear parking sensors and maybe your blind spot radar sensors too in combination. But as soon as it detects a possible movement toward your back hatch it says 'oh oh' I'm not happy and stops. The movement could be anything at all.
You have to understand it's not that sophisticated a system, it's just using your rear parking sensors and maybe your blind spot radar sensors too in combination. But as soon as it detects a possible movement toward your back hatch it says 'oh oh' I'm not happy and stops. The movement could be anything at all.
I do not think you really got an issue there. It is just t he way those back doors are, they are very particular at what then need it order for the door to close. You have to stand at particular distance, you may be standing too close or too far, you have to wait a certain time you may be moving too fast etc. if you are doing just one of those things that stpd door just do not work
What I do to make it work, I press the close and lock button, then stick my head into the trunk like I am grabbing something for a second, then I step back, and the door magically closes and locks 
What I do to make it work, I press the close and lock button, then stick my head into the trunk like I am grabbing something for a second, then I step back, and the door magically closes and locks 
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