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XNX350X helped me figure it out. It was the ANC/ESE feature that has to be disabled. It's the center plug on the Lexus OEM amplifier located under (within) the center console in between the front seats of the car. It's actually a feature called ESE (Engine Sound Enhancement) which is in addition to the ANC feature both located in the same plug and successfully disabled when unplugging it. I didn't even disassemble the console. I referenced these pictures and stuck my hand under the trim on the drivers side and felt around carefully. Once I located the amp, I made sure to feel around and count the three harnesses plugs and confirm cables were connected to them and once my hands were back on the center plug, with a little effort I was able to push the tab down and pull out the harness. Then slowly pulled my hand out. I suspect with some patience I could reach my hand back in there and plug it back into the amp if ever needed to. The pictures below will give you an idea of what I did and it was the exact same procedure in my previous 7th Gen ES350 F-Sport2 with ML amp with unplugging the center plug to disable ANC and AES. Works on most current model Lexus amps I believe. Don't quote me on that one but so far 2 vehicles confirmed. Thank you XNX350X 🙏 You made my day brother 💯
*This picture is not mine and it's from this thread and shows the amp plug location in question.
Hope this helps someone 🤞
1) Factory Lexus OEM Base Sound Package Amplifier ANC/ESE Plug. Yours will be plugged in and this picture shows it unplugged.
2) Where I stuck my hand in carefully under the center console trim.
3) Corner of Lexus foot mat showing that the plug is physically located directly above it as a reference point as to where to stick your hand in.
I'm selling 2 x JL Audio C2-350x if anyone wants to make me an offer... I decided to go with the C2-400x and waiting for them to come in... Eventually i'll have 1 x C2-400x for sale as well
The plastic dash speaker cover has an opening designed for a 3.5" speaker. What is the rationale for installing a 4" speaker . Would a 6" speaker generating music thru a 3.5" opening be better? Isn't music that is not projected thru the 3.5" opening going to bounce inside the enclosed area? Just asking......
The plastic dash speaker cover has an opening designed for a 3.5" speaker. What is the rationale for installing a 4" speaker . Would a 6" speaker generating music thru a 3.5" opening be better? Isn't music that is not projected thru the 3.5" opening going to bounce inside the enclosed area? Just asking......
I have installed the JL AUDIO C2-400X corner speakers and am very happy with the result, and would now like to also swap out the center speaker.
Before I purchase another pair - Does anyone have a left over/extra new JL AUDIO C2-400X from their center speaker replacement that they'd like to sell?
I have installed the JL AUDIO C2-400X corner speakers and am very happy with the result, and would now like to also swap out the center speaker.
Before I purchase another pair - Does anyone have a left over/extra new JL AUDIO C2-400X from their center speaker replacement that they'd like to sell?
Did you ever end up finding one or purchasing a pair? I'm about to pull the trigger, if you have an extra I'll buy it from you, or vice versa.
My testing showed little advantage in changing the center speaker, and the best result was to add a simple resister to attenuate this center speaker. I know many have upgraded it to match the new sides and was curious of you honest opinions as to if it helped, or the center was better attenuated. A simple way to test it is to listen with and without something covering over this speaker.
Unfortunately, I had an unpleasant surprise today. I bought a JL C2 350x thinking it would be almost plug&play. Sad to find out that the dimensions are completely different. Am I making a mistake somewhere? Or are the dimensions in the EU version different from the US car? I'm probably going to have to sell two sets of speakers and buy others. I didn't notice that anyone here had a stim problem. Google translator, sorry.
Unfortunately, I had an unpleasant surprise today. I bought a JL C2 350x thinking it would be almost plug&play. Sad to find out that the dimensions are completely different. Am I making a mistake somewhere? Or are the dimensions in the EU version different from the US car? I'm probably going to have to sell two sets of speakers and buy others. I didn't notice that anyone here had a stim problem.
I had same issue when I replaced the dash speakers, the bracket on the replacement speaker was slightly smaller pretty much as you are showing. But I found it is big enough, the bracket doesn't have to line up perfectly with the mounting holes because the OEM screws are a bit smaller than the mounting holes with very coarse threads. I simply started both screws at a 45d angle just enough to bite, then as I slowly and gently tightened them down equally, they both stood straight up and tightened perfectly. Obviously this is only possible with a screw with the very coarse threads, they provide plenty of wiggle room.
I used good quality zip ties on my current 2025 and previous 2021. Works well and allows you to mount the speakers perfectly centred and solid like you used screws. Worked well on both cars and mounted solid with no movement whatsoever. The trick is to curl the zip ties with your finger before you run them and you feed through the hole on the mount of the speaker and grab from the other side with your fingers or pliers. Then you slip the zip tie through the latch on both sides so the first few clips click and then with one hand hold the speaker down, so it’s centred and use the other hand to zip and fully tighten both sides. I have a feeling there will be some that won’t agree with this method, but it’s worked flawless for me as I mentioned on this car and the last and on my last car I changed the dash speakers five times to experiment with different sound. Never had an issue. Hope this helps someone. 🤞
Beware, zip ties can get brittle with age and break. I think using the factory screws at the wonky angle when they start and slowly align when you tighten them is better. My $0.02
Beware, zip ties can get brittle with age and break. I think using the factory screws at the wonky angle when they start and slowly align when you tighten them is better. My $0.02
I had the same situation w the holes not aligning.
I had a choice.... push bolt in at angle and permanently have significant tension on the speaker being pulled and the vehicle holes being pulled out . and the tension would be permanent
Or, use RTV sealant under and over the two thin zip ties to add protection to the zip ties.
Either way, both ways are not optimal.
The speaker sits on top of the mounting area/hole. so, the RTV sort of keeps the speaker in place and the zip ties prevent the speaker from moving laterally. The other bolt keeps the entire speaker sitting and secured . Like I said, either way is not optimum, but the I prefer using the zip and RTV . Just my opinion.
