Not a tech myself, but sounds like the timing is off. Are you sure you lined up the timing marks correctly when you changed the belt?


Tach- remember awhile ago I had the problem of battery drain which was eluding me for months? Finally have an update. After changing alternator, new battery, new 120 amp alt fuse, it was finally warm enuff for a friend and I to start checking the wiring, as it was the only logical thing left. Come to find out that I had 1 wire off of the alternator harness which had become brittle and broken off in the harness itself. It wasn't obvious by looking at it b/c it was still in place. Cut the old harness, got another from the local boneyard, wired t up and all seems well. This had been driving me nuts for months. Oh well, problems of an 18 y/o LS. Anyway,, as Jay-Z says,,"On to the next one,,"

 

I did double and triple check(rotate 2x revolutions) before putting everything back.

Actually I only done timing/water pump once before on my other car(92 SC300) non VVT-i. I think the problem was when I removed the cam gears to replace the seals behind it, I did mess up the timing, but it was always within 30-40 degrees. However, I did line up the dots again before putting the belt back. Is there anyway for me to reset the timing? Any official guide to read upon?

I took everything apart two more times but come up with the same result. The dots on cam gears and crank pulley are line up properly.

Does anyone has any source on how to reset the timing(positions of "knock pin" on each camshaft) or how to adjust on this engine? I really don't want to ruin the engine and hopefully didn't. I don't hear any knocking noise coming from it, am I safe for now?

 

Hey, Your timing is off by a tooth or two. And also check that you connected everything. Remember the vvt-i cam gear moves 5 degrees in either direction. When putting the belt on the cam gear has to be maximum right .

 

Damn!!. Thats the worst case scenario. Ok my suggestion is swap ecu with someone with an is300 see if that changes anything, most likely what the tech did at the dealer. If you cant spend the money on a new ecm you can send it to me and I can have one of my electrical specialist look at it.

 

Awesome!!! glad you finally got that resolved. I remember going back and forth with you trying to figure this out.

 

You are safe thats if you didnt hear any knock when you first started the motor. I mentioned earlier you need to check the vvt-I cam gear it rotates 5 degrees in either direction. Cam setting needs to be maximum right. Also I hope you didnt remove the 5 10mm bolts on the vvt-i cam, did you ?

 

Unfortunately, I did removed the bolts; is it true that I really need to replace the intake cam gear I did bolt them back on using the stain(circle hole between the plates) on the gear as guide.
I'm glad you think that the valves are still good. I'm planning to redo it on Sunday. I'm taking the valve covers off to check the correct placement of the camshafts. I want to double check with you on this: with the dot on the the crankshaft timing pulley aligns with timing mark on oil pump, the cam lobes on both cams are facing up; I'm a little confuse on the position of the knock pins on page EM-49, from what I remember after taking the cam gears off, both of knock pins were at the exact same angle not varies. Please let me know. Thank you.

 

i got one shipped to the house, taking it in tomorrow to have it installed and re-programmed

it was a used one same part number and what not so...it is what it is...

live and ya learn right?

nonetheless man i want to say thank you for all your help in trying to diagnose this issue

 

92 es300

code 12 rpm signal circuit failure
code 55 = ?

thanks in advance for the help.

 

You can place the plastic cover with the crank pulley on to set the crank at
TDC, make sure both cams are set up at up right position TDC. The cam can be re-assembled however there is a chance that the seal can get damaged and you might have an oil leak from it. I had tested and removed the vvt-i assembly and re-assembled it and noticed it would leak so i had to re-seal it with black silicone.

 

No problem glad to help, Wish it could have been a smaller problem.

 

55 is a knock sensor fault. You may have some brittle wiring connecting it to the sensor. Look around and see if there are any damaged wiring.

 

Hi,

I own a LHD Eur. spec '05 Toyota Land Cruiser Prado (GRJ120) which I'm told is a 1st gen GX470 with a 4.0 V6(GR1-FE) instead of the 4.7 V8. I've been trying for a while to determine whether I can retrofit my truck to rain sensor wipers. This is important to me because of right arm disability. I understand the 1st gen GX470 was sold both w/ and w/o rain sensor. So my question is, if one had a GX470 w/o rain sensor and wanted to upgrade it to rain sensor, would it just be a case of plugging a Wiper ECU, the wiper switch and the actual sensor on the standard harness? I've a cheap ecu in eBay, can also keep looking for wiper switch and sensor (from salvage yards?).

I know the caveats of whether the GX and the Prado have the same wiring etc. I've not got very far with my local Toyota shop (despite their nominal willingness to help). If it would help, I can provide parts of my truck's wiring diagram as needed from toyota-tech.eu (just got a week's subscription).

I do have an alternative as I bought a RT50A kit from raintracker.com but would prefer to go OEM if feasible/affordable.


Thanks

Nikolas Kostakis

 

You will need to get the rain sensor that attaches to the top of the windshield, rain sensor control module, and will have to hot wire it into your factory harness. That is one way you can do it which will be the cheapest option. Or you can get the whole harness with the rain sensor wiring attached to it. Most sensors such as the rain sensor is attached to the factory harness.

 

Could I go without the rain-enabled wiper switch (with the auto position) and hot wire onto the slow or normal positions?