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Old May 31, 2010 | 08:05 AM
  #436  
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Default Traction Control light

1992 SC400, bone stock, 414,000 km.
The traction control light comes on once in a while, with no other codes or lights. The light turns off with the ignition, until the next time. No discernible lag in performance.
The accumulator has been suggested. Any ideas?
Old May 31, 2010 | 08:12 AM
  #437  
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Just to be clear your at about 257,000 miles ( give or take lol ). I would check all 4 wheel speed sensors,abs sensors, You may have accumulated rust in the hubs causing the sensors to loose contact; You can get more involved by checking the traction control ecm or try and pull the codes to determine where its coming from. But if there are no stored codes it may be a loose or cut wire that is loosing contact.
Old Jun 1, 2010 | 11:25 AM
  #438  
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Smile Brake Pedal Vibration and Sound, mostly when shifting between P / R / D

2006 GS430 - stock

I've been experiencing a really annoying thing happening to my GS ever since I bought it a few months ago. When shifting from Park to Reverse or Drive, once moving slowly my brake pedal vibrates along with a vibrating sound. It also occurs while im driving from time to time, usually when i start braking. The dealership said it was normal for my year, but i find that hard to believe. Its still under warranty for a month or so. Any advice? Thank you!
Old Jun 1, 2010 | 01:31 PM
  #439  
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When you put the car in reverse or drive does this happen when the brake pedal is depressed and your not moving ? what speed do you feel the vibration at ?
Old Jun 1, 2010 | 01:41 PM
  #440  
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It happens as soon as the car starts moving, while im slightly pressing on the brake pedal, at very slow speed...Mostly occurs when pulling out of a parking spot, or parallel parking. But also happens while im driving approx 20km/hr slowing down (pressing pedal) to make a stop.
Old Jun 1, 2010 | 03:29 PM
  #441  
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For the pedal to vibrate means that there is something attached to either the motor/trans touching the pedal assembly or associated parts. Your dealer will have to take the car in and check for any items touching or rubbing causing that vibration on your brake pedal. This sometimes can happen after a transmission or engine is removed and when re-installed can touch something causing panels inside the cabin to vibrate.

If you purchased your car used you can go to your local lexus dealer and have all the service records pulled to see if any major work has been performed on the car.

alot of the times when it comes to hunting for noise or vibration dealers will check for any service bulletins and if they dont see anything they will then excuse the car as no problem found.

If your lexus dealer is not cooperating you can threaten to report this to lexus headquarters. Which then HQ will get involved and send out their field tech to have the situation looked at. Dealers are looking at the bottom dollar if they cant make any $$ they try and get you out asap!.
Old Jun 2, 2010 | 06:23 AM
  #442  
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just got new headers and downpipe to take away the pre cats...my downpipe comes wit a high flow cat on it so all my cats will be replaced....any thing I should get to spray the nuts wit so they won't snap when I try to take them off...? Heres the link I got them from http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/01-05...#ht_3916wt_702
Old Jun 2, 2010 | 06:58 AM
  #443  
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You can go to your nearest auto parts store and purchase "PB Blaster". Spray the bolts down and let it soak in for a minute then you can start removing the bolts and none should snap off.
Old Jun 3, 2010 | 07:41 AM
  #444  
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Originally Posted by TACH_MOTOR
You can go to your nearest auto parts store and purchase "PB Blaster". Spray the bolts down and let it soak in for a minute then you can start removing the bolts and none should snap off.
do you think these headers are a good buy..?
Old Jun 3, 2010 | 08:53 AM
  #445  
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For the money I would say yes. As for quality and longevity I cant tell you since I personally have never tried aftermarket headers on the NA 2jz motors, The amount of gains arent justified I would rather keep the O.E headers and change out the midpipe since you dont need 3 cats on the car. That's my opinion.
Old Jun 4, 2010 | 04:36 PM
  #446  
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hey I just put my headers in but my O2 sensor is hiting my back wall cuz it's no space... :/ how do I relocate it...?
Old Jun 4, 2010 | 11:22 PM
  #447  
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Tach -

Brake pedal sticking. If you press halfway down on the pedal it sometimes just wants to stay there instead of returning to normal position. The return spring looks ok. Any ideas on a fix?
Old Jun 5, 2010 | 02:39 PM
  #448  
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Originally Posted by Derrick42
hey I just put my headers in but my O2 sensor is hiting my back wall cuz it's no space... :/ how do I relocate it...?
Your need to cut it and re-weld it elsewhere. Or just plug that sensor up and get another 02 bung to weld elsewhere.
Old Jun 5, 2010 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Percy
Tach -

Brake pedal sticking. If you press halfway down on the pedal it sometimes just wants to stay there instead of returning to normal position. The return spring looks ok. Any ideas on a fix?
Your brake booster may need to be replaced. I would bleed all the brakes first just as a primary step to fix, If it still sticks then replace your brake booster. It has a diaphragm inside which is probably getting stuck. If you want to do a cheap fix go to your nearest home depot, ace hardware and get a tighter tension spring which will force it to return.
Old Jun 9, 2010 | 05:26 AM
  #450  
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my car is running good now thanks!!! Mt oem headers was bad I have a auto IS and I want to turbo it...whats the right steps I take so I won't **** up my lex lol cuz I don't have stick...?



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