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Old May 20, 2017 | 07:41 AM
  #16  
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Different oils for the Toyota and the Lexus. Toyota makes a synthetic blend and a synthetic.
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Old May 20, 2017 | 09:03 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by mckellyb
Being as the LS's sump holds NINE quarts of the slippery stuff, I'm going, initially, with 12K mile changes.

First change will be in about 9K more miles, and I'll send it off to Blackstone labs to see what kind of condition its condition is in.

My wife's RX300 has been on 10K changes using Mobil 1 since we bought with about 32K miles on it. Has 142K, now, uses not a drop over said interval.

I've used "extended" intervals on all my vehicles for 30 years, now, all on synthetic, never an oil-related issue...ever. Held on to a few of them until they had more than 200K on 'em, too.

Depending on what Blackstone's tests show, that 9 quarts might be good for 20K miles. I'm okay with this.
I certainly love hearing about people that push their oil change intervals to the max - I wouldn't do it - but I find it an interesting topic. One thing to consider, those engines you previously went with the long intervals...those are timing belt engines without direct injection. The LS is a different animal, but you're right, there is a huge sump on these, so you'd think that would help...then again there's a lot to lubricate (32 valves, four camshafts, two high pressure fuel pumps, 8 pistons, massive timing chain).

Last edited by Doublebase; May 20, 2017 at 09:10 AM.
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Old May 20, 2017 | 11:13 AM
  #18  
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To be fair, 'synthetic' oils should really be called distilled.

Blends, however, are different.

It may seem pedantic, but it really is different.

Doublebase, all but two of the previous engines I've had in our stable were/are chain driven valves.

Personally, I hate the belt-driven valvetrains. My wife's 2002 RX300 is belt-driven, and I really should change the OEM belt...it has 142K miles on it. Maybe in a few weeks...though I may just take it to an indy shop and have it done (I've changed one, previously, but I truly did not have a choice).

The funny thing is, Mercedes used to, don't know if they still do, have giant sumps for their gasoline engines as well as the diesels. We have a Cummins ISB (not a pickup), the commercial engine, which holds four gallons of motor oil. The factory change interval is 15K, but being it's an oil-burner, anyway, it makes sense.

However, the '89 420 SEL (V8) and the '95 E320 (I6) I used to have...the 4.2L held 8 point something quarts and the 3.2L more than 7. I'm a huge fan of having more than the bare minimum on board.

Last edited by mckellyb; May 20, 2017 at 11:22 AM.
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Old May 20, 2017 | 12:08 PM
  #19  
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Mckellyb, yeah I figured you had some chain engines. I think the modern engine has changed quite a bit recently, these chains now are huge and the pressure on the cams to drive the high pressure pumps has ruined a few camshafts depending on design. Then throw in the ridiculously low viscosity oils...that's some work these oils are being asked to do, along with the longer intervals. I'd feel better going longer distances with a heavier weight oi.

But I am a fan of these guys who go 10,000 - 20,000 using Amsoil or extended performance brands because I like hearing about what these oils can do.

And and I never go near a synthetic blend...there's no regulation of exactly how much synthetic they're putting in it...it could be half, a quarter, a fourth...no one is watching. It's a scam.
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Old May 20, 2017 | 01:50 PM
  #20  
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I run no lighter than 5W-30 Mobil1.

Those old Mercedes machines, though...MB spec'd C4 diesel oil, 15W-40.

For a gasoline engine.

Last edited by mckellyb; May 21, 2017 at 10:19 AM.
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Old May 20, 2017 | 03:23 PM
  #21  
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Walmart
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Old May 20, 2017 | 06:57 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by SW15LS
Yes but I don't believe that's the case with 0W oils, especially 0W20. Google it and see what you find...
It is that way even in the US for 0W oils in most cases. Mobile 1, Penzoil Platinum, Castrol 0W20 are all generally known to be Group 3 refined synthetic blends. I believe Mobil 1 0W40 European formula is or was a group 4 full synthetic but it might be a synthetic blend now. German Castrol 0W30 is a group 4 full synthetic because it is made/comes from Europe where they can not by law call a Group 3 synthetic blend a full synthetic like they can in the US. If you can find it, it is one of the rare affordable Group 4 synthetics available at US autostores, unfortunately they don't make it in the bigger containers. Royal Purple I believe is a full synthetic but I have heard too many issues with it, especially in turbo cars to use it. Redline, Motul, Amsoil are mostly full synthetics or offer them.

If I get a GS350 or LS460 I think I would use Castrol 0W20 as the main oil but also add a quart or two of German 0W30 Castrol for some added protection/longevity.
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Old May 20, 2017 | 07:13 PM
  #23  
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Interesting. I considered using the German Castrol oil also, I did a good bit of reading on BITOG (man, those guys have a lot of passion for oil lol)
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Old May 21, 2017 | 03:54 AM
  #24  
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Kennyr44, that Mobil 1 is on sale at Walmart right now for 22.95 - and Mobil 1 is running their rebate program until May 29th. So two five quart Mobil 1 jugs is only $46 bucks, then throw in the $24 dollar rebate and you're down to $22...roughly $2.20 a quart for Mobil 1. I bought 30 quarts, can't beat it. And you can use the rebate on any of their oils...extended performance, long life, you name it.
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Old May 21, 2017 | 06:33 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Doublebase
Kennyr44, that Mobil 1 is on sale at Walmart right now for 22.95 - and Mobil 1 is running their rebate program until May 29th. So two five quart Mobil 1 jugs is only $46 bucks, then throw in the $24 dollar rebate and you're down to $22...roughly $2.20 a quart for Mobil 1. I bought 30 quarts, can't beat it. And you can use the rebate on any of their oils...extended performance, long life, you name it.
I bought this oil for my 2017 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee. They call for 0-20 also. Contrary to the 5k a year I put on my LS the new Jeep is less than 3 months old and my wife has put 9,000 miles on it. She took it from Colorado to Key West to Niagra Falls and back with friends and her dog. I replaced the right side control arms in my LS yesterday. Remember I only did the left side in 2016. It took me 2.5 hrs and again I had some problems but it all worked out. The slight noise is gone that I was hearing from that side. They were worn a little more than the left side but really no torn out bushings to visually show a serious problem at 91,000 miles. I would say this normal wear is more than acceptable. A fair price to replace the arms in my mind is about $1,800 including tax, parts and labor. That would give a good profit for an independent shop to make. Compare this one off repair to a German brand and it's a spit in the bucket.
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Old May 21, 2017 | 10:31 AM
  #26  
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I may need to clear some more space in the garage for oil storage for that Wally World/Mobil deal. I mean, $2.20/quart is less expensive than dead dino juice.

I think I'm down to about 20 quarts. This will not do!
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