I thought I would contribute to the audio thread with my intended installation. In the midst of removing most of the interior to assess possible wiring strategies, I've gotten as far as removing the rear seat, and seat back, along with the door trim along the passenger side. It was during the seat back removal I discovered that the rear window had been destroyed at some point, as there were numerous pieces under the seat, and lodged behind the seat back.

I have standing by for installation:
Alpine IVA-W900 - Along with signal processor, bluetooth unit, and XM adaptor.

Audison SRx 2s (Will drive the three speakers in the door/dash/Undecided)
Audison SRx 1d (Will drive the Subs)

Alpine MRP-F250 Old, but still works like a champ (will drive rear door speakers)
Front Door speakers Hertz HSK series 8" diver, 3.5" mid, 1" sweeter with crossover

Rear Door speakers Hertz HCX 130 5.25" coaxial

Subs in trunk 2 Hertz ES300D 12" Subs

Metra Double Din dash kit

Some of the parts are tad dusty, I'll need to clean them off before I install, with the exception of the 5.25s, which I've not used yet. Also, I'm debating on fabbing 2 sealed boxes that would flank each side of the trunk. OR.. fab a ported box to sit under the rear decklid, and have it ported out through the hole that will be there when I remove the stock sub... decisions decisions.

Wife just sounded the dinner bell, so I'll upload the pictures after dinner.

 

I'm the most inept person in the world to tackle even such a simple task ha. Anyway, I think I found the drop-in solution:

2 x JBL GTO428 units in the front doors (2 ohm so no power loss - suggested earlier in this thread)

2 x Polk Audio DB401 in the rears (read a lot of positive reviews)

factory tweeters

Can all be had for $160 shipped. The car is going to be needing new tires before long, and I'm contemplating dropping close to $2K on some camera equipment soon, so the above seems to be the cheapest solution. Not looking to win any audio competition anyway. And if it sucks, I'll send it all back ha.

 

Update on my Beatsonic kit. I don't know if it's the beginning of Summer in Florida that is doing it but the "face plate" portion of my Beatsonic kit has started deforming on the top. It's only been in the car for about 5 months and needless to say I'm not pleased. If it were a $10 kit it would be a different story and I wouldn't care as much.

The plate has not been removed or fiddled with at all since installation.

After installation:


Now:

 

open it up and check your HU, it might be overheating (had that happen beore on another car).

the beatsonic units are usually pretty solid.....if you bought it in the US i'm sure BeatSonic USA could take care of you?

 

I'll take a look at the head unit. Not sure why it would be overheating and it doesn't seem to be emitting all that much heat. I purchased the kit directly from Beatsonic. I think they shipped it from China or Japan. I'll check with them and see what they say.

 

Almost all the DIN faceplates I've seen on LS400s always do that

 

Here is a link to my thread:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...s-oem-amp.html

 

Wierd deal I was running some test tracks and it turns out the 99' OEM Pioneer amp crosses over the sub below 60Hz. So I've got to figure out a way to get a different signal if I want to hear above 60Hz out of the sub.

What if I use the left input for the sub signal and the right input for the front speakers? I currently use both channels of the line output converter for the sub.

I played around with the settings in the OEM headunit, but non of them control the x-over.

The OEM doors don't really play 60Hz that well so I have a hole in the response. Any other thoughts?

Thanks

 

Anyone have a stealth enclosure for a ten in a 1st gen that doesn't require losing the spare or a lot of trunk space? Love to see some pics.

 

It's not really a stealth enclosure, but I still get to keep my trunk and spare tire unlike my last setup where I couldn't fit a 12 pack of soda in the trunk.






Its not done yet. Still debating on if I should bondo and paint it or carpet it.

 

I have a 12" sony explode pushed by a 800 watt amp.

the stock sub is removed for travel into the cabin of the car.

I run a pioneer avic-z1 head unit with the scosche toyota wire adapter.

the sony explode is a free-air. I had to extend the internall port tube by 8 inxhes with the sub mounted magnet out. it sits about 8 inches from the farthest right corner of the trumk with the port tube firing between the first aid kit and the pocket to the rear of the trunk.


when I turn everything up, roll down my windows, it is more than enough to annoy anyone within a 15 foot radius of me.
if you are next to me7-10.feet, my bass will vibrate in your car.


I use it for annoying drivers. I will get up as close as possible. and its all tuned for 40 htz

 

Has anybody tapped their remote wire somehwere in the trunk? I am trying to avoid pulling my dash apart to pick up a switched 12v source. I will eventually be installing an aftermarker HU, but would just like to make it simple for the time being. Anyone have any ideas? I know I can tap off the stock amp, but wasn't sure which wire it was. I can use a multimeter if I need to, but I figured this is the best place for info! haha

 

Or does anyone know if the stock CD changer has a switched 12v source on it going into the actual changer? Im pulling it out tonight, so if there is a switched 12v there, I can just tap into it. I just dont know if there is one or not.

 

Is the aftermarket sound that much better than the Nakamichi Premium? I'm thinking about swapping head units just to get bluetooth and hd radio, but I don't want to do any chopping at all. I wouldn't replace any speakers, I don't think. At $700+ for head unit, Beat-sonic and install it needs to be more than just equal.

 

Looks like most of the Pioneer head units mentioned here don't control a cd changer. Anybody have one that does? I'd like to keep the Naka Premium changer.