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Ls400 audio setup thread (The Mother thread)

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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 08:23 PM
  #211  
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metra 70-8112 this is the 15 pin harness i used for my car and i was able to keep my stock sub
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 10:33 AM
  #212  
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Thanks guys for the help with my double din FlyAudio install. There is alot of great information in this thread.

I ended up using the:

FlyAudio universal double din (newly improved and pretty awesome, especially at the $449 price point)
Beat Sonic SLA-21A
Scosche LS2085B

Here are a couple pictures:

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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 10:51 AM
  #213  
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Originally Posted by Automax Service
Thanks guys for the help with my double din FlyAudio install. There is alot of great information in this thread.

I ended up using the:

FlyAudio universal double din (newly improved and pretty awesome, especially at the $449 price point)
Beat Sonic SLA-21A
Scosche LS2085B

Here are a couple pictures:
why did you use both??
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 10:55 AM
  #214  
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
why did you use both??
I had bought the Scosche kit before I knew about the Beat Sonic, so I only used their wiring harness from Beat Sonic (not the faceplate). I think the Scosche one is a great match to the factory trim.
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 10:57 AM
  #215  
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Maybe he just used the Beat Sonic harness? The Scosche kit is just the double din faceplate.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 03:22 AM
  #216  
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is it hard to install these double din equipment and subs/speakers? on a scale from 1-10
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Old May 15, 2011 | 09:46 PM
  #217  
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Originally Posted by Automax Service
I had bought the Scosche kit before I knew about the Beat Sonic, so I only used their wiring harness from Beat Sonic (not the faceplate). I think the Scosche one is a great match to the factory trim.
How much you pay for your wiring harness?
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Old May 16, 2011 | 10:34 AM
  #218  
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We sell the harness for $185 (+tax in California) with free shipping. Thanks!
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Old May 23, 2011 | 08:27 AM
  #219  
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I hate to say but for the price you paid on that off brand double din, well you could have gone with a much nicer name brand double din like kenwood or pioneer. In fact at the 450 price point you also get built in bluetooth.
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Old May 30, 2011 | 08:38 AM
  #220  
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So I've been looking to finally replace the door speakers in my '97. Pulled the car up on Crutchfield, and it shows everything being 5 1/4" (yeah I know they're really 4"). Another local stereo shop told me they were 6.5." I did a live chat with a Crutchfield agent who assured me a 5 1/4" would fit if I simply re-drilled the holes. I linked him to the lexls tutorial which clearly shows its more than just re-drilling - alas, he remained steadfast in telling me drilling was all I needed to do.

It seems, however, that tracking down a set of 2 ohm 4" speakers for the front doors is going to be difficult. From my understanding, dropping a 4 ohm speaker where the amp was designed for a 2 ohm is going to halve its power? A guy at Best Buy told me I could get a 4 ohm dual voice coil speaker and wire it to be a 2 ohm; problem solved.

A search showed another member with a '96 going with Infinity 5030cs in the front doors, and said they were 2 ohm. But when I looked them up, it says "True Four Ohms All Reference speakers feature two ohm voice coils." So...those are still 4 ohm.

I've already got a 12" Memphis Audio non-ported sub in the back powered by a 450 watt Sony X-Plod amp, so I've got the low end covered. Didn't plan on replacing the factory tweeters either. I want to retain a sound similar to what the car had from the factory, as I've been quite pleased with it, save for recently when I've noticed the speakers are starting to sound like they're on their last leg.

Last edited by Mugen_1; May 30, 2011 at 09:18 AM.
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Old May 30, 2011 | 09:44 AM
  #221  
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this is the worst car I've ever done audio wise, I hated working on it.

chopped up my speaker boxes but hate how the speakers sat with my 5.25 so i ending up cleaning them up with clay and remolding all the top halfs so everything sat flush in the boxes

I preplanned a sub setup till i took the trunk apart and saw the gastank right where the amps would go so a mdf built rack that sits behind the wall of the trunk so i dont have to worry about the amps/wires being near the tank

I'm a basshead so I have a very loud system
clarion vz300 single din (metra has a harness that bypasses the stock amps)
upfront: 5.25Kicker RS60.2 with 1/2 tweets
rear: 5.25 Kicker KS5
subs: 2 kicker 15's
amps: for speakers a kicker 4 channel and for subs a kenwood

Last edited by MrGreen; Jun 2, 2011 at 01:54 AM.
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Old May 30, 2011 | 02:06 PM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by Mugen_1
So I've been looking to finally replace the door speakers in my '97. Pulled the car up on Crutchfield, and it shows everything being 5 1/4" (yeah I know they're really 4"). Another local stereo shop told me they were 6.5." I did a live chat with a Crutchfield agent who assured me a 5 1/4" would fit if I simply re-drilled the holes. I linked him to the lexls tutorial which clearly shows its more than just re-drilling - alas, he remained steadfast in telling me drilling was all I needed to do.

It seems, however, that tracking down a set of 2 ohm 4" speakers for the front doors is going to be difficult. From my understanding, dropping a 4 ohm speaker where the amp was designed for a 2 ohm is going to halve its power? A guy at Best Buy told me I could get a 4 ohm dual voice coil speaker and wire it to be a 2 ohm; problem solved.

A search showed another member with a '96 going with Infinity 5030cs in the front doors, and said they were 2 ohm. But when I looked them up, it says "True Four Ohms All Reference speakers feature two ohm voice coils." So...those are still 4 ohm.

I've already got a 12" Memphis Audio non-ported sub in the back powered by a 450 watt Sony X-Plod amp, so I've got the low end covered. Didn't plan on replacing the factory tweeters either. I want to retain a sound similar to what the car had from the factory, as I've been quite pleased with it, save for recently when I've noticed the speakers are starting to sound like they're on their last leg.
search for Lexkost's speaker thread (in either the LS or the Audio forum). the '95-97 have smaller front speakers than the 98-00. Lexkost had modified the OEM box to accept 6-6.5 components.
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Old May 31, 2011 | 06:11 PM
  #223  
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Definitely good use of information here. I just upgraded my deck and the speakers seem to sound like they have less bass for some reason. Thinking about getting new speakers but still doing the research for the best ones on my 93.
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 08:52 AM
  #224  
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Pure, I've seen his tutorial but I really don't want to hack anything apart. Found a complete set of OEM speakers w/sub on eBay for $100 - considering buying it if I changed my mind and wanted to do 5 1/4" but screwed something up, just so I'd have something to drop right back in (not to mention I need a factory sub back anyway in the event I sell my car).

Moreover, it seems to have been established that I'm not going to be finding any 2 ohm, 4" component speakers. I DID find a set of 4" DLS R4s (components, but 4 ohm) on eBay for $150. Still looking at a 25% reduction in power, but means I'm not modifying anything.

And for what it's worth, a local shop quoted me yesterday on a set of Boston Acoustic 5 1/4" components fronts, a set of Alpine rears, plus installation (including making custom enclosures to accommodate the larger size) for the grand total of....$500. Uh. No. Not paying $250+ in labor
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 10:57 AM
  #225  
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so don't hack and cut it properly

6.5s will sound better.
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