hid retrofit kit
03-13-03, 08:52 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
I see that you are having problems with your fuses blowing as well..........I put in 30 amp fuses and they blew so I just removed everything and decided to get a solution before I proceeded with anything else...........I see what you mean about the harness from the stock headlights hooking into the harness from the hid kit...............the wires are switched around................was jason telling you to just flip the harness around so it doesnt lock in place?..............When he says you have to switch the pin connectors in the auxilliary harness plug to you original headlight plug what is the auxilliary harness plug? Is that the plug that is from the hid kit? Or is it the stock plug that hooks up to the hid kit?............if you decide to switch the wires in the harness are you going to swith the wires on the stock headlight assembly or on the hid kit assembly?...........thanks for the great detailed pics that you put up, they helped alot..............I know what you mean about the red wire from the battery...............how did you lengthen the wire from the battery terminal?...........I want a clean install as well and that red wire dangling ontop of the battery is limiting the rest of the install as far as tucking in wires and mounting them to the other wires in the engine bay...........I ran my wires along the radiator the exact same way you did..........It may take a little longer but the install will be much safer and much cleaner looking..............thanks for all the help PHML and ROMINL
rich
rich
03-13-03, 09:08 PM
#18
Originally posted by GS300Rich
I see that you are having problems with your fuses blowing as well..........I put in 30 amp fuses and they blew so I just removed everything and decided to get a solution before I proceeded with anything else...........I see what you mean about the harness from the stock headlights hooking into the harness from the hid kit...............the wires are switched around................was jason telling you to just flip the harness around so it doesnt lock in place?..............When he says you have to switch the pin connectors in the auxilliary harness plug to you original headlight plug what is the auxilliary harness plug? Is that the plug that is from the hid kit? Or is it the stock plug that hooks up to the hid kit?............if you decide to switch the wires in the harness are you going to swith the wires on the stock headlight assembly or on the hid kit assembly?...........thanks for the great detailed pics that you put up, they helped alot..............I know what you mean about the red wire from the battery...............how did you lengthen the wire from the battery terminal?...........I want a clean install as well and that red wire dangling ontop of the battery is limiting the rest of the install as far as tucking in wires and mounting them to the other wires in the engine bay...........I ran my wires along the radiator the exact same way you did..........It may take a little longer but the install will be much safer and much cleaner looking..............thanks for all the help PHML and ROMINL
rich
I see that you are having problems with your fuses blowing as well..........I put in 30 amp fuses and they blew so I just removed everything and decided to get a solution before I proceeded with anything else...........I see what you mean about the harness from the stock headlights hooking into the harness from the hid kit...............the wires are switched around................was jason telling you to just flip the harness around so it doesnt lock in place?..............When he says you have to switch the pin connectors in the auxilliary harness plug to you original headlight plug what is the auxilliary harness plug? Is that the plug that is from the hid kit? Or is it the stock plug that hooks up to the hid kit?............if you decide to switch the wires in the harness are you going to swith the wires on the stock headlight assembly or on the hid kit assembly?...........thanks for the great detailed pics that you put up, they helped alot..............I know what you mean about the red wire from the battery...............how did you lengthen the wire from the battery terminal?...........I want a clean install as well and that red wire dangling ontop of the battery is limiting the rest of the install as far as tucking in wires and mounting them to the other wires in the engine bay...........I ran my wires along the radiator the exact same way you did..........It may take a little longer but the install will be much safer and much cleaner looking..............thanks for all the help PHML and ROMINL
rich
to lengthen the wire and stay with stock look, i will probably try to replace the whole wire from one end to the other, and then use either tape or heat wrap to cover them up.
03-13-03, 10:02 PM
#19
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It works!! It works!! 
I just flips the socket around so that the polarity is correct.....red to red, and black to white/black. That's the easiest way. I tried pushing the pin out from the socket kit and broke a little plastic piece that holds the pin in the socket.... I stopped that idea after that.
Thus, the 9006 sockets will be connected together WITHOUT the use of the locking notch. It's a pretty good connection without using the notch.
In regards to the battery terminal wire.....I pushed that pin out from the 20 Amp fuse casing.....removed the short red cable.....re-used the fuse terminal connector .....bought a larger diameter terminal adapter to fit the screw that was already tapping into the positive battery terminal .... and bought 3 ft 12 strand, 20 Amp red wire from Lowes (cost 10 cents per ft).
Lots more slack to play with on both sides.....especially the driver side.
Good luck.
Pete
I just flips the socket around so that the polarity is correct.....red to red, and black to white/black. That's the easiest way. I tried pushing the pin out from the socket kit and broke a little plastic piece that holds the pin in the socket.... I stopped that idea after that.
Thus, the 9006 sockets will be connected together WITHOUT the use of the locking notch. It's a pretty good connection without using the notch.
In regards to the battery terminal wire.....I pushed that pin out from the 20 Amp fuse casing.....removed the short red cable.....re-used the fuse terminal connector .....bought a larger diameter terminal adapter to fit the screw that was already tapping into the positive battery terminal .... and bought 3 ft 12 strand, 20 Amp red wire from Lowes (cost 10 cents per ft).
Lots more slack to play with on both sides.....especially the driver side.
Good luck.
Pete
Last edited by PHML; 03-13-03 at 11:42 PM.
03-13-03, 10:06 PM
#20
Originally posted by PHML
It works!! It works!!
I just flips the socket around so that the polarity is correct.....red to red, and black to white/black. That's the easiest way. I tried pushing the pin out from the socket kit and broke a little plastic piece that holds the pin in the socket.... I stopped that idea after that.
Thus, the 9006 sockets will be connected together WITHOUT the use of the locking notch. It's a pretty good connection without using the notch.
In regards to the battery terminal wire.....I pushed that pin out from the 20 Amp fuse casing.....removed the short red cable.....re-used the fuse terminal connector .....bought a larger diameter terminal adapter to fit the screw that was already tapping into the positive battery terminal .... and bought 3 ft 12 gauge, 20 Amp red wire from Lowes (cost 10 cents per ft).
Lots more slack to play with on both sides.....especially the driver side.
Good luck.
Pete
It works!! It works!!
I just flips the socket around so that the polarity is correct.....red to red, and black to white/black. That's the easiest way. I tried pushing the pin out from the socket kit and broke a little plastic piece that holds the pin in the socket.... I stopped that idea after that.
Thus, the 9006 sockets will be connected together WITHOUT the use of the locking notch. It's a pretty good connection without using the notch.
In regards to the battery terminal wire.....I pushed that pin out from the 20 Amp fuse casing.....removed the short red cable.....re-used the fuse terminal connector .....bought a larger diameter terminal adapter to fit the screw that was already tapping into the positive battery terminal .... and bought 3 ft 12 gauge, 20 Amp red wire from Lowes (cost 10 cents per ft).
Lots more slack to play with on both sides.....especially the driver side.
Good luck.
Pete
so it's the wires swaping, interesting. if you don't want to pull out the wire and swap them (since you already broke something), try to use heat shrink tape to tie over the connectors, that way they will be "tied" together
03-13-03, 11:52 PM
#21
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Rominl:
As promised, here are some pics.....NOTE: I did NOT alter the pics at all....straight from the digi camera. I'm not a photographer....so bear with me guys.
Peter
Beam pattern with Hiper Industries 55W 9006 bulb.
As promised, here are some pics.....NOTE: I did NOT alter the pics at all....straight from the digi camera. I'm not a photographer....so bear with me guys.
Peter
Beam pattern with Hiper Industries 55W 9006 bulb.
Last edited by PHML; 03-14-03 at 12:25 AM.
03-14-03, 12:00 AM
#23
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Battery connect. Removed the kit's short red cable.....re-used the fuse terminal connector .....bought a larger diameter terminal adapter (in yellow) to fit the screw that was already tapping into the positive battery terminal .... and bought 3 ft 12 strand, 20 Amp red wire from Lowes (cost 10 cents per ft.)