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Old 03-14-03, 09:39 PM
  #46  
brendanlim
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Where in the world can I buy that heat shrink stuff? Do they have it in wal mart? I just went there and bought some more wires and some electrical tape and zip ties just in case. PHML, I'm not an expert or have any experience doing this but could you explain how you extended that wire? Step by step?

Mine arrives tomorrow at 12:00 pm -- can't wait!
Old 03-15-03, 12:50 AM
  #47  
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Originally posted by brendanlim
Where in the world can I buy that heat shrink stuff? Do they have it in wal mart? I just went there and bought some more wires and some electrical tape and zip ties just in case. PHML, I'm not an expert or have any experience doing this but could you explain how you extended that wire? Step by step?

Mine arrives tomorrow at 12:00 pm -- can't wait!
man it must be a torture for you tonight. anyway, you should be able to get it at places like radioshack or maybe even home depot or other hardware stores. they are very common
Old 03-15-03, 02:14 AM
  #48  
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Originally posted by brendanlim
Where in the world can I buy that heat shrink stuff? Do they have it in wal mart? I just went there and bought some more wires and some electrical tape and zip ties just in case. PHML, I'm not an expert or have any experience doing this but could you explain how you extended that wire? Step by step?

Mine arrives tomorrow at 12:00 pm -- can't wait!
Brendan -

You can buy that heat shrink stuff at any hardware store like Lowes, Home Depot, Eagle Hardware, etc.... just ask someone in the electrical section....they should know what you talkin about.....btw...it comes in different diameter sizes and usually around 3 to 4 inches long....so dont think its a long tube that you can just cut to size....I have NOT seen it sold that way.

In regards to extending your terminal wire, I first removed the fuse from the fuse terninal, then I used a super small flat head screw driver (or anything flat and hard) and shoved it down the terminal connector pin that leads to the battery connector. The locking tab is on the opposite outer side of the 2 humps of the pin. This will push a skinny metal locking tab down (you cant see this). With a bigger flat head screw driver, push the tip of the terminal, it should move a bit if the locking tab is down.....if it doesnt move at all, the locking tab is NOT down. If you push too hard, and the locking tab is NOT down yet, you will bend the locking tab (which happened to me). Pulling it out wont work. I somehow straightened it out again and re-did it . Probably took me about a good 15 mins to get this sucker out. Patiance is a needed.

Once you get the terminal out, you should have just the 12" long red wire. Take the wire (with connectors still attached on both ends) to a hardware store and ask for a longer one. I got a 3 ft. piece. I think the stock terminal wire is 20 strand, I got a 12 strand. I dont think it matters how many strands as long as its the same gauge size for 20 Amps. Lowes had several colors, I chose red to be consistent.

While at the hareware store, ask for a new fuse terminal connector. It has to me exactly the same fuse terminal connector pin and locking tab to fit and lock in place. Lowes and Radio Shack did NOT have the same fuse terminal connector so I had to remove and re-use from the original wire. That took me another 15 mins to remove. I did find a larger ring connector to the battery so I bought that.....the ring connector that came with the kit did NOT fit over the screw which I wanted to mount on my battery terminal.

Next get a wire stripper and crimper. If you dont have one, buy one or borrow one. Strip both ends of the new battery terminal wire....just enough to mount and crimp the connectors onto the wires. Next, re-attach new wire to fuse terminal. Note that the 2 fuse terminal connectors face opposite directions due to the location of the locking tab. Finally, put the 20 Amp fuse back into the fuse terminal and close the top lid.

You are done and now ready to install the kit.

Sorry, no pics for this section. Its pretty common sense. Its easier when you have the right tools at your disposal.

You can make this whole section easier by just taking the entire wiring setup to Radio Shack or a hardware store and tell them you want to extend the battery terminal wire. Maybe they do it for you since they got the tools....and charge you for parts only. It doesnt hurt to ask.

Pete

PS: Here's one more pic.
Attached Thumbnails hid retrofit kit-picture-218.jpg  
Old 03-15-03, 12:07 PM
  #49  
brendanlim
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Got them! Installed them! Took about 15 minutes! EASY!

I'm going to post a video tonight
Old 03-15-03, 01:03 PM
  #50  
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Originally posted by brendanlim
Got them! Installed them! Took about 15 minutes! EASY!

I'm going to post a video tonight
Kewl....did you extend the battery terminal wire? Can't wait for the video.

btw....what kind of wedge bulbs and corner bulbs are you using? Does it match the new 6000K kit?

Thanks

Pete
Old 03-15-03, 03:19 PM
  #51  
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Originally posted by PHML
Kewl....did you extend the battery terminal wire? Can't wait for the video.

btw....what kind of wedge bulbs and corner bulbs are you using? Does it match the new 6000K kit?

Thanks

Pete
Nope -- didn't extend the wire yet Will do so this upcoming week. Everything is great bro!

I'm only using M4's for the sidemarkers. I'm about to buy M6's for the inner driving lights. Right now it's stock. You'll see in the video, which should be in a new thread in 5 min

Last edited by brendanlim; 03-15-03 at 03:20 PM.
Old 03-15-03, 03:29 PM
  #52  
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=77450
Old 03-15-03, 11:08 PM
  #53  
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Brendanlim -

As Rominl said to me.....Congratulations and welcome to the 6000K Club. LOL

Pete
Old 03-16-03, 01:34 PM
  #54  
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hey PHML running that black cable right next to the radiator, wont that melt it in time ?
Old 03-16-03, 03:35 PM
  #55  
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Yeah, you don't want it near your radiator. Try re-routing the wire or maybe you need to extend it so you can run it across the firewall down to the headlamp and ballast.
Old 03-16-03, 04:13 PM
  #56  
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Originally posted by 99SHlude
Yeah, you don't want it near your radiator. Try re-routing the wire or maybe you need to extend it so you can run it across the firewall down to the headlamp and ballast.
What's the danger of running it in FRONT of the radiator and not even touching it (just touching the frame)?
Old 03-16-03, 04:56 PM
  #57  
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Originally posted by joshoowa
hey PHML running that black cable right next to the radiator, wont that melt it in time ?
Im sure it won't melt. It already comes with a protective covering. Anyways, I zipped tied my wires so that it wont ever move at all. Its not touching the radiator. The only time my wires gets close to the radiator is when it leaves exits and re-enters the foam area of the radiator. I believe there's another wire re-entering the same foam area on the driver-side. If you are worried about it melting, you can always buy some flexible wire looms like the stuff that surrounds the wires in the engine bay area.

Trying to run it along the firewall is NOT an option.....unless you have the time and patience to take apart the entire set of wires leaving the relay. Its possible to entend that wire if you know what you doing....but personally, I thinks it a pain in the @$$.

Just make sure you zip tie the wires tight.

Pete
Old 03-17-03, 08:02 PM
  #58  
GS300Rich
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I just finished installing the Philips retrofit kit and it is awesome..........Like everyone else said it is white on the ground and has that nice white/purple look to it.............now my problem is this........The other lights dont compare............I installed the Polarg M6 bulbs in the daytime running lights and they just look too yellow compared to the hids...............and what about the fog lights?............I dont want to install HIDs there because I think it is a waste of money.............can anyone recommend bulbs that will brighten these areas up?.............the Polarg bulbs are ok but if there is another bulb out there that may be whiter please let me know
Old 03-17-03, 08:25 PM
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Originally posted by GS300Rich
I just finished installing the Philips retrofit kit and it is awesome..........Like everyone else said it is white on the ground and has that nice white/purple look to it.............now my problem is this........The other lights dont compare............I installed the Polarg M6 bulbs in the daytime running lights and they just look too yellow compared to the hids...............and what about the fog lights?............I dont want to install HIDs there because I think it is a waste of money.............can anyone recommend bulbs that will brighten these areas up?.............the Polarg bulbs are ok but if there is another bulb out there that may be whiter please let me know
haha, it sux huh? you get a good set of headlight and now everything else doesn't match i have m4 in the high beam housing, it's ok, not too bad actually imho. m6 looks worse for some odd reason to me.

and for fogs, sorry to say, but there is no halogen that can come close to 6000k, just none. razo is the best match for stock hid, but 6000k.... it's hopeless. that's why i just got yellow fogs
Old 03-17-03, 08:58 PM
  #60  
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thanks rominl, glad to see that im not the only one that pays attention to the little things........You put the M4s where your high beams go?..........Does that make the high beams brighter or duller?............and does it make the bulb look whiter like the HID?.............the fogs dont bother me as much because I hardly ever use them to be honest with you.............its the attention to detail that will win awards...........im working on posting pics on here...........if you want to see pics of my lex and my durango go to cardomain.com/id/durrngd..........I still have the durango.........its my beater now............let me know what you think..............the lex is far from done...............going to do a system with kenwood and JL audio and then a win body kit with blitz spoiler............thanks again for all the help guys...............rich


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