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Originally posted by Miles B If you're going to play it loud, get ready for your car to develop some new rattles after a while.
Ask me how I know.
How? j/k the main problem is the back dash, and the front dash where it meets the windsheild. the rear speaker cover is a ***** to get off, pretty much need to break the rivets. but that speaker cover/ rear break light make too much noise rattles for me. i just took mine completlly off. problem solved
im running 2 jl 12s with a 600 watt amp. sealed box between the towers. amp has adjustable bass gain control from the cabin, which is key because adjusting the bass at the wheel is crucial. i am happy with the sound, but new rattles can drive you crazy sometimes. you just got to hunt them out. hope i helped, good luck
Heh heh yeah I run a 1800x1 RMS... it just *makes* rattles. After a while, all kinds of parts have been bounced and moved that much that they don't quite fit together right any more, and they rattle. Kind of a whole car rattly squeeky deal. Needless to say, the amp is for sale and not going into the Lexus! And yes, with that kind of power, bass control from up front is essential if you want to keep your hearing or licence.
The sound deadening mat will be needed, but there are a few other methods to attacking rattles. Expanding foam can be great for filling empty space between sheet metal, like inside the trunk lid, that sort of thing; just be real careful not to overfill (since it does expand a fair amount) and put plastic or something down so you don't get it on the car or trunk. Also, if you can find sheets of soft, open-cell polyurethane foam about 1/4" thick, that works well to put behind or between panels that rattle together to isolate them.
Originally posted by Kyle Harty The sound deadening mat will be needed, but there are a few other methods to attacking rattles. Expanding foam can be great for filling empty space between sheet metal, like inside the trunk lid, that sort of thing; just be real careful not to overfill (since it does expand a fair amount) and put plastic or something down so you don't get it on the car or trunk. Also, if you can find sheets of soft, open-cell polyurethane foam about 1/4" thick, that works well to put behind or between panels that rattle together to isolate them.
Be real careful with the expanding foam. Pick one that expands the least and use just a little of it. Foams can bend metal and crack plastic easily when they expand.
As for rattles, Lexus is a fairly well sounddeadened car. After you install your subs you will know whether you need sounddeadening or not.
future, I have a pair of Kicker Comp 10's in a bandpass enclosure being pushed by a Kicker 700.5. It's not a ton of power, and there is a minor license plate rattle at higher spl. The quality of construction of the GS surely absorbs a great deal of noise. Sound damping material would be a good idea though.
As for speaker placement/direction, what my installer found was that the subs facing backwards gave the best output.......and definitely remove the stock sub to allow the subs output to be ported into the cabin. Good luck!!!!
Originally posted by retrodrive Be real careful with the expanding foam. Pick one that expands the least and use just a little of it. Foams can bend metal and crack plastic easily when they expand.
As for rattles, Lexus is a fairly well sounddeadened car. After you install your subs you will know whether you need sounddeadening or not.
The warning on the foam is definately worth mentioning again, I've heard of but haven't used a Latex expanding foam that wouldn't crack or bend panels, that'd probably be worth looking for if you're concerned about wrecking panels. I've always used Great Stuff Minimal expanding foam, I'd stay away from the Triple Expanding stuff just for the reasons retro mentioned.
The license plate is a prime candidate for the other foam I mentioned. I don't know where you'd be able to find it, maybe a craft store; I get it from work.
If this picture works, here's what the foam looks like on the back of a license plate.