sub mounting
You would probably need to put on some seroius sound dampening material on that rear deck. Its just a sheet of metal with lottta holes in it. If you skip that step, it might sound like a honda rattling the doors and hatch off....lol.
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I amped the stock sub with a Rockford Fosgate, and the only issue that I have is that the deck shakes like crazy. Its very apparent. Even the black cover to the passenger seat belt rattles. I was thinking about taking off the fabric and screwing the whole back deck together and seeing how that does. My sugestion? Go with a unported box, and remove the stock sub and that will create a port. Free air subs do not have great punch, they act as more of a mid-bass. But use that same speaker in a box, you will not be unhappy.
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I am somewhat of an audiophile, by no means an expert but let me share my .02 for a moment.
Most subwoofers on the market right now are not designed for free air use (just mounted to the rear deck) and in my opinion the ones that are tend to be inferior b/c of the wide ranger of uses for it. That said when I initially designed and built my system I planned to use a 10" sub in the rear deck with a fiberglass enclosure built around it to the proper airspace. The result was the less than appealing to me, the sounds coming from the sub was bass, but it was out of phase with the rest of the speakers. A phase controller is not something I wanted to invest in at the time so I had a fiberglass enlosure made to fit into the corner of the trunk. It is discreet and takes up little room so it suits me fine. And everyone else is correct at a minimum you would need to dynamat the rear deck to control the rattling. Later tonight I will post a pic of my sub so you can get a better idea of what I am talking about.
Most subwoofers on the market right now are not designed for free air use (just mounted to the rear deck) and in my opinion the ones that are tend to be inferior b/c of the wide ranger of uses for it. That said when I initially designed and built my system I planned to use a 10" sub in the rear deck with a fiberglass enclosure built around it to the proper airspace. The result was the less than appealing to me, the sounds coming from the sub was bass, but it was out of phase with the rest of the speakers. A phase controller is not something I wanted to invest in at the time so I had a fiberglass enlosure made to fit into the corner of the trunk. It is discreet and takes up little room so it suits me fine. And everyone else is correct at a minimum you would need to dynamat the rear deck to control the rattling. Later tonight I will post a pic of my sub so you can get a better idea of what I am talking about.
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Originally Posted by bmanson
The result was the less than appealing to me, the sounds coming from the sub was bass, but it was out of phase with the rest of the speakers. A phase controller is not something I wanted to invest in at the time
All you have to do is switch the positive and negative wires on the sub to get a 180 degree phase change.
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Oh yea..here is my setup
It's getting a bit over 200w of headroom. You dont need much power for an infinite baffle setup, because the sub can max out with little power (relative to boxed setup).
It's getting a bit over 200w of headroom. You dont need much power for an infinite baffle setup, because the sub can max out with little power (relative to boxed setup).
I dropped the sub in from the top, just like the stock sub. I put the weatherstripper between the sub and the rear deck. I also forgot to mentioned, I made a baffle for it because you wont be able to screw the sub down since the stock sub's hole is a bit too big. You have to get a bit creative. Doing it like you see in the first picture is easier, but I dont like having the wood stick out like a sore thumb, with exposing bolts. .
BTW, I didn't get a PM
EDIT: now i do
BTW, I didn't get a PM
EDIT: now i do
Last edited by GSteg; May 9, 2006 at 03:40 PM.
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From: PA
If it was as simple as just swapping the polarity of the sub I would have done it, but the sound really did not complement the Q series quarts in the door, so I went an alternative route which in the end I feel sounds and looks better.