Been there with an improperly jumped car. You blew the main fuselink. It'll need replaced. They should have taken about 10 minutes to diagnose that. It's a HUGE LONG fuse in the main fuse box. It's IMPOSSIBLE to miss had they known what to look for. Mine had the same symptoms. Replace that and possibly a few other small fuses and you're ready to go. Unfortunately, they need to replace the fuse link as you have to gut the fuse box basically. It's a PITA

 

Call the Lexus Customer Support line and complain, it usually gets things going over at a dealer...

 

Well from what little bit of information that I got from the service advisor days ago, he said all fuses were checked and they were good.

 

I sent the email about 2-3 hours ago. I am going to give them till the end of the day to respond to that. If not I will take that advise and give the customer support a call.

It's unbelievable to me that they received an email like that and have yet to call or email back. You would think that they would want to respond quickly to that email.

 

I can almost PROMISE you it's the fuselink. It's not a fuse. This piece is designed to protect your car if a charge goes the wrong way through the system. I had the EXACT symptoms you have now. Tell them to specifically check the MAIN FUSELINK

Look at this post. it's the long white thing in the fuse block. You'll see a gap in the metal inside it.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ml#post9751050

 

Believe me, when my car was in the shop for 4 months for an engine rebuild Lexus corporate was not easy to get a response from. You had to get them on the phone, they would not call back and they would not respond to anything in writing.

I wish you luck.

 

I am going to pop up at the dealership today. I will see if I can check this.

But one thing...if the fusible link was bad would the interior lights come on? because they do. I can pop the trunk from the trunk pop button in the car, so I know it's getting power. If the main fusible link was N/G wouldn't those things not work as well?

 

yes. everything worked except the brake switch wouldn't recognize me pressing it to start. Sound familiar?

it caused purely random gremlins

 

It might. But if they used the manual available to them through TIS, they would have been done in the first hour.

 

Just left the dealer. So the fuse link is good. The wire that was the other guys problem was good. Basically according to them they have exhausted everything they know to do and are asking TIS for assistance......

 

Wow. This is crazy....all because a battery was drained....darn it man.

V.

 

Yeah, all due to a drained battery....I am trying to keep this going and load this post with as much information as possible from my side so that if anyone ever has this happen hopefully it will help them.

As for the battery...I guess it might be worth a shot. I know I checked it with a meter myself and it was good. And like I mentioned it is pushing power to the car seeing how the interior lights and push button trunk pop (button in the car, not on the fob) work.

 

So true. Do this. I too have experienced anomalies of battery problems over the years. This whole thread reeks of battery related problems.
Seems 1 of 3 batteries I purchase has an issue. I'm cursed. The most recent was just months back on my Bird - starter "tinked" but worked on cold startup which to me screamed bad cell plain and simple. Adv. Auto tested it on the spot & told me "we tested it, it's good" and I still insisted on swap. Swap works like a champ.

 

I will tell them to give it a try. However, remember that it will not even attempt to crank. I don't think its a starting issue per se, rather a communication issue I believe. I think that the car is not communicating with the key fob which is what will not allow the car to do anything which requires a signal from the fob. i.e. start the car, put the car in acc mode, lock/unlock the car with the fob, pop the trunk with the fob, set off the alarm with the key fob. It's not a matter of the car trying to crank but won't due to not enough power/cranking amps. I get how batteries can read good voltage but not have the cranking amps to turn the car over. Like I said, that is not the case here. I can not get anything out of the car to be able to get to the point to try to crank it. If all that makes sense.

 

I found this post. The last post is what I think might be significant. I wonder with it being that dead if it is possible that is lost the registration? At any rate, I have forwarded that last post procedure onto the dealer. So we will see.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ce-needed.html