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I did my plugs @ 100k and they looked clean so thankfully no need for tube seals yet. But just for future reference they part # list mainly of the Orings and other related gasket that changed at the same time would be much appreciated.
I did my plugs @ 100k and they looked clean so thankfully no need for tube seals yet. But just for future reference they part # list mainly of the Orings and other related gasket that changed at the same time would be much appreciated.
Certainly,here's everything associated with the job I had done:
11213-38060 - Cylinder Head Gasket x1
11214-38040 - Cylinder Head Gasket x1
11229-38030 - Cylinder Head Gasket x1
11193-38030 - Spark Plug Tube Seals / Gaskets x8
23224-38010 - Fuel Pump Gasket x2
23915-46011 - Fuel Pump Insulator x2
90301-A0029 - O Ring x2
11159-0S010 - Camshaft bearing cap oil hole gasket x2
To anyone who may be keeping up with both this thread & any spark plug tube seal issues.
I did an at home plug change Sunday before last and noticed a good deal of oil on #s 6 & 7, past the nut & on the porcelain. There was also a bit of oil on the coils themselves. After a quick post I was pointed to the tube seals (thanks Lance) and wanted to post my experience in this thread.
I had 6 days left on my CPO. I was prepared to do this repair myself if Lexus didn't honor it - I was concerned the lack of a code / engine light would interfere with this - but the risks / complexity appealed to my safety net on this one. Fight for warranty coverage.
My SA was great and we worked together well. Most importantly, he knew I knew my ***** about the car and listened intently. After formulating a plan to pitch to CPO, all was successful & I got the car back yesterday. The list of items on the repair are as follows:
NEW SPARK PLUG TUBE SEALS X8 AND ALL O RINGS
FUEL PUMP SEALS x2
FUEL PUMP INSULATORS x2
REGULATOR GASKETS x2 W/CYLINDER HEAD Gasket
Hope this helps someone else.
Sorry to revive an old thread.
Looks like nobody confirmed the conclusion.
Why do so many cars including mine have this same problem? The same problem!
So weird.. nobody explained it.
Did your car have the same problem w 2 rear plugs only?
Did the service you do fix it? Did you confirm on next plug change?
Why do so many cars including mine have this same problem? The same problem!
So weird.. nobody explained it.
Did your car have the same problem w 2 rear plugs only?
Did the service you do fix it? Did you confirm on next plug change?
Thanks in advance.
I had the problem on all the plugs, check out this thread I initially posted on my problem. I had the tube seals replaced under CPO and haven't pulled the plugs since (here's a list of the parts they changed). For what it's worth, any time I had the dealer do an oil change the car was overfilled. I always brought my own oil & filter. The last time I had them do it I only brought them 9 quarts. I was only having them do this to keep the maintenance records up to date, but I'm done dealing with dealerships unless I absolutely have to. I do my own oil changes now and update the records via LexusDrivers.com.
^^ what if the back plugs are hard to reach AND they are not being properly tightened?
Most of these old posts show no oil from the Top Down but instead **what appears like oil** but is actually combustion gasses condensed into a black sludge.
That sludge happens as a result of the plug not being fully tightened.
Go loosen a front one and run it. Same thing will happen.
Originally Posted by 2013FSport
One observation is they were not tight enough thus what appears like oil up the threads but it's actually combustion gasses condensed. Everytime I've seen this it is because the crush washer is barely crushed. In short; turn until they stop turning!!!
An example of one loose plug. #5.... notice NO oil on the threads except the loose #5?
Taken out at 56,000 mi.
^^ what if the back plugs are hard to reach AND they are not being properly tightened?
Most of these old posts show no oil from the Top Down but instead **what appears like oil** but is actually combustion gasses condensed into a black sludge.
That sludge happens as a result of the plug not being fully tightened.
Go loosen a front one and run it. Same thing will happen.
Bottom line is tighten the plugs properly!
Well I will tell you conclusively, shortly, if it’s just a matter of tightening the rear plugs properly because I did the last spark plug change myself and used a high end torque wrench (Precision Instruments); and even added a few ft-lbs over the spec.
Well I will tell you conclusively, shortly, if it’s just a matter of tightening the rear plugs properly because I did the last spark plug change myself and used a high end torque wrench (Precision Instruments); and even added a few ft-lbs over the spec.
Will report back my findings.
Your final words may make all the difference as that last little bit where the plug literally stops turning completely crushes the washer stopping the migration of combustion gasses as they have no where to go.
Your final words may make all the difference as that last little bit where the plug literally stops turning completely crushes the washer stopping the migration of combustion gasses as they have no where to go.
GL
Ok but I do not buy that it is a matter of them not being tightened correctly in production because they are in the rear. If they are using a torque wrench then there is no question when it is the correct torque - You hear a click, there’s no mistaking.
^^ then the same is true of my Weeee-Six, last plug at the back of block; so hear ya... OEM install btw.
May I burn in eternal hell but that's what I am saying about turn the plug till it stops turning. Its not like you're going to pull threads. I used a torque wrench for something like that in 40 years and I have a full arsenal of Snap-On T/W's from a few inch pounds to 280ft/lbs from the old transmission shop days.
When you see all theses seals being changed and No oil came from the top down, it means it came from the combustion side and went up.
** edit: bottom line is this **
If you do your own work and turn a plug to remove it and breaks free with zero to minimal force but turns hard all of the REST of the WAY, it was loose and carbon built up on the threads. This is the smoking gun you look for!
Make sense?
Try it and see what happens.
Last edited by 2013FSport; Oct 11, 2019 at 07:51 AM.
The TWO most common wet plug threads are against the Firewall...
Caused by two reasons... Overfilling on oil changes and g force pulling on hard take offs.
This causes oil to slush / pool up in the areas of the rear spark plug tube channel seals and overtime very small incremental amounts of oil trickle down and migrate into the threads...
My other six spark plugs have always been dry from factory and from my first & 2nd set changed.
I have never got time to change my seals..
Factory plugs ran till 80k
2nd set till 170k
For sure life got in the way on when I did my spark plug DIY changes..
My guess is what Joe-Z said above and in the other thread is that your car has been overfilled when the oil changes have been done by that shop or the previous owner and over time you get the accumulation of oil....
