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Oil on Spark plug thread.

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Old Nov 8, 2015 | 09:29 AM
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Default Oil on Spark plug thread.

So I'm an new ISF owner, 2011 with 58k miles on it. I'm working on the 60K maintenance and while replacing my spark plugs I came across two of them having some oil on the thread. We are talking about the rearmost spark plugs (cylinder #7 and #8).

On this picture we have passenger side parks, the right one being the closest to the firewall. As you can see it has dry black stains. maybe oil? The rest of them dont look like that.

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On this next picture is the most concerning one. This was taken from cylinder #8 (rearmost driver side) It has considerable more oil on its threads and in this case it was still wet. Take a look at the washer and you can see oil is still wet. It is highly burnt and it doesn't even smells like oil. Next to is was a normal condition plug.

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So what do you guys think if this. It this maybe anti seize grease? Should I be worried about this car?

Last edited by wiloz32; Nov 8, 2015 at 09:33 AM.
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Old Nov 8, 2015 | 10:50 AM
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You think that's bad, here are mine. I'm thinking it maybe due to the PCV valve passing, sending the oil into the intake. And because I drive my car harder than most, more oil was ingested. My two cents.
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Old Nov 8, 2015 | 11:32 AM
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I have been thinking of doing mine a little early . Maybe at 45k rather than 60k. I do track time too. Hoping AOS might help with this
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Old Nov 8, 2015 | 12:18 PM
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Look completely normal to me.
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Old Nov 8, 2015 | 12:34 PM
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They look like a hundred other plugs I have pulled from Yamaha engines, including championship winning engines. I would not be worried about it at all.
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Old Nov 8, 2015 | 05:43 PM
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Yea I think Joe Z pulled his plugs and the rear plugs by the firewall also had oil on the threads.......I guess if Lance says this is normal and nothing to worry about, then we should be good to go.

I'm at 62k and have to do the plugs here soon, I will post pics of mine when I install them.
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Old Nov 8, 2015 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MileHIFcar
Yea I think Joe Z pulled his plugs and the rear plugs by the firewall also had oil on the threads.......I guess if Lance says this is normal and nothing to worry about, then we should be good to go.

I'm at 62k and have to do the plugs here soon, I will post pics of mine when I install them.
Try getting a air and oil seperate it should help
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 07:34 AM
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I have one installed already, but only for the last 2k miles or so? I'm hoping that it will help when I put in the new plugs here soon!
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 08:23 AM
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- Had an 08 ISF, changed plugs at 55k, same thing, oil on spark plugs and threads on the "rear two spark plugs" near the firewall.
- Currently have an 11 ISF, changed plugs at 45k, exact same thing with oil on the rear-most spark plugs.

2 ISF's and if lobuxracer says normal, I say it is normal.
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 08:28 AM
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Thank you everybody for the input. Overall replacing the spark plugs is a pretty easy job. Passenger sides are a bit harder specially #5 which you have to wiggle around to get the coil pack out. Other than that you just have to remove the battery and loosen a relay box so you can do a little room, passenger side is all about doing room to get stuff out. Driver side are a piece of cake just remove a small relay box and they are all easy access. To get them plugs out use nose pliers, it makes it super easy and effortless. You definitely need various extension sizes and a u-joint socket. Difficulty is no different than any other V engine. Ive seen worse engines to work in. Like Mitsubishi Montero Sport, you need to take the goddamm intake manifold off to replace driver side plugs.

Originally Posted by lobuxracer
They look like a hundred other plugs I have pulled from Yamaha engines, including championship winning engines. I would not be worried about it at all.
Thanks Lance. I feel more relaxed now. BTW I've seen a post you did on 60k Maintenance in your 2008. It caught my attention the job you did on checking valve gap. Is this really necessary? I don't track my car and neither says it on the owners manual, mine is a 2011.
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 09:44 AM
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I dont know if that is exactly "ok", I pulled mine and looked similar to yours oil around the top and had to replace my tube seals.
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by StealthFF
I dont know if that is exactly "ok", I pulled mine and looked similar to yours oil around the top and had to replace my tube seals.
Now the thing is. If the tubes are leaking. Why isnt the outer part of the spakplug wet?
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by wiloz32
Now the thing is. If the tubes are leaking. Why isnt the outer part of the spakplug wet?

If the valve cover seal was leaking, the porcelain of the plug would have oil on it as well as the coil plug portion that attaches to the plug.


The residue on the threads is likely the result of oil vapor and fuel working their way up the threads. The compression is high and the shrink/swell of the heads allow for this. If there was an oiling issue in the compression chamber, the plugs would be black, sooty, and wet. Per the pictures, the combustion is clean and the plugs have consistent color.


Move along, nothing to see here.
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by StealthFF
I dont know if that is exactly "ok", I pulled mine and looked similar to yours oil around the top and had to replace my tube seals.
If there is oil above the crush gasket, then you have a leaking tube seal. If there isn't, you don't. These pictures don't show any oil in any place I would be concerned about.
Originally Posted by XutvJet
If the valve cover seal was leaking, the porcelain of the plug would have oil on it as well as the coil plug portion that attaches to the plug.


The residue on the threads is likely the result of oil vapor and fuel working their way up the threads. The compression is high and the shrink/swell of the heads allow for this. If there was an oiling issue in the compression chamber, the plugs would be black, sooty, and wet. Per the pictures, the combustion is clean and the plugs have consistent color.


Move along, nothing to see here.
Dead on the money.
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
If there is oil above the crush gasket, then you have a leaking tube seal. If there isn't, you don't. These pictures don't show any oil in any place I would be concerned about.


Dead on the money.
BUT - For those with the 2 - WET rear plugs...

If you examine closely, you will likely find a small trail of oil from the tube seal sandwich point..

I know what you’re saying, but I had oil in the TUBE.. None of it was on the Porcelain or above the crush gasket.. As shown in my photo evidence.

The oil migrates soo slow in there, it just works it way down the threads and never puddles up HIGH enough to cause other visible issues






Driver


Passenger



In order of concern my driver's side was a tad bit worse compared to passenger side.. The other 6 plus were DRY.

I did mine two years ago this month at around 80k miles... Soon I will pull the rear plugs again to see how they look..
I have also paid a lot more attention on how much oil goes in after an oil change.
Not 10 qts or even 9.5 qts

I've been starting with 9 and just add in enough to get to the 2nd dot

If the rear TWO are still WET, I will likely be changing out all the Tube Seals very soon..!!


Joe Z

Last edited by Joe Z; Nov 9, 2015 at 05:30 PM.
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