bob123

Time is approaching for my 60K maintenance service which also includes brake fluid replacement.
Has anyone used the vacuum bleed method with a Mityvac MITMV8500 or equivalent?
Two concerns I have is the service manual only states the two person pedal method and also does not state which wheel to start at.
I have seen others use the pressure bleed method by applying air to the reservoir. I like that the vacuum bleed equipment can remove the old fluid from the reservoir without a mess and the fluid replacement process appears much faster.
Any feedback is much appreciated.

MedicalDoc

It's real easy. I did it with one from Harbor Freight.
Start with the wheel farthest from the brake fluid reservoir and end with the one closest, emptying the reservoir of the old fluid as much as possible and putting in fresh.

UngBuck

iTrader: (1)

the manual said replace brake fluid every 30k. Does that mean replace just the reservoir fluid or entirely flush the system? My car is at 45k and brake fluid still looks clear to me.

MacroZed

The truth is, it's really not the miles that you put on the car, but rather the length of time the brake fluid was in use.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture. The brake fluid actually sucks moisture from the air that it is exposed to.
Once the brake fluid gets saturated with too much water, then it can introduce rust into the hydraulic system, and cause issues.

You can do the every 30k mile brake fluid replacement....that certainly is not a bad interval, but you can test the existing brake fluid with something like this:


And if it tests good, then skip the fluid change for a year and re-check.

To answer your original question, I have used the mityvac tool, and I didn't think it was all that.
I prefer to use, and do use, the Motive Products Power Bleeder. Much easier.

E46CT

Every two years is a good interval. As mentioned, old fluid absorbs moisture and can eat away from the brake system from the inside. I suspect that would take over a decade for you to start noticing any effect though. The real reason to replace fluid is the process of bleeding air out.

Note to properly bleed air out of the *entire* system, you need to initialize the system using a computer. That's the 100% proper way to do it. BMW uses a similar computer-initialized system as well. I suspect most modern cars do, if not all.

itsx

What I did was "over fill" the master cylinder, leave it's lid open, and then just open the nipple without anybody on the brakes. Just have your little bottle apparatus and tubing in a manner where the brake fluid has to go vertically up before looping down into your bottle. I just had to make sure the master cylinder stayed full. it takes a little longer, but definitely doable as a 1 man job. Just gotta have enough brake fluid and make sure you dont let the master cylinder go empty, otherwise you'll have to do everything all over again. It gravity bled like that for me.
I just kept bleeding until it came clear. i forget the diameter tubing i bought, but i just got regular clear tubing from the hardware store, i think it's the same for aquariums too.

E46CT

yeah I used to know a master mechanic with a huge shop (did all euro cars, guy was from europe himself) he used to gravity bleed all the time but he did say it takes forever. perfect to do while he's working on other cars. lol.

i've used the motiv pressure bleeder in the past too. gives it a little kick in the pants to speed things up

manchild

I used the motiv speed bleeder and made a tool to help me bleed it and attach it to the master cylinder. Here you go.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-3rd-gen-2014-present/860529-brake-flush-with-motive-power-bleeder.html#post9906785

bob123

With the Motive power bleeder, it looks hard to reach inside for a thorough cleaning. Does anyone have any issues with cleaning the power bleeder after use?

manchild

The top unscrews and I just wash it with soap and water and put it away when I am done. With the top unscrewed so it can dry out and is ready to go next time.

E46CT

yeah it's just a big mayonnaise jar basically. you wash it out.

bob123

After reading the application guide on Powermotive site, the 0101 bleeder (with 1101 universal adapter) will work for Toyota/Lexus if there is space above the reservoir and as long the ABS unit is not below the master cylinder on some Toyota models.
Some reviews of the 1101 adapter had issues with sealing, but I like the ideal of one customer who used ratchet clamps on both sides of the reservoir for extra downward pressure to ensure a good seal.
So I guess I'm going with the pressure method on my first brake fluid exchange. Will report results.

nitroracer

That's quite a bit of work.

I went with the Capri vacuum. This way, I don't have to shell out for various types of adapters, and no fussing with bad seals.

zhifan1

Wanna know, is it necessary to remove wheels when accessing the bleeder nut when the vehicle is jacked up?

manchild

It's not worth your time to try and do it with the wheel on. It's only 5 nuts... buzz them off before going to work.