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Since people are still using this I have updated the links and added a few pictures of the bleeder attachment I made. Ignore the broken hose, it's dry rotted from lack of use, as soon as I need it again I'll just attach another piece of clear 1/4" hose. I like clear hose so I can watch the fluid move. If you want pictures of the bottle side just let me know and I'll go snag a few.
I'm at 30k and I needed to replace my brake fluid. Since I dislike my local dealership and my favorite dealership is too far away I figure it's DIY time. Here's what I did with major success.
The only problem is the press on master cylinder cap on the IS350. That European screw cap will not work and without a method of securing the fit you can't pressure bleed from the top. So there is the universal cap version sold at Walmart... DO NOT buy that thing it will not work There is no room to fit it onto the master cylinder. You need to get creative here, or just hop on over to the Tacoma forums.
Buy this master cylinder cap its A billet aluminum automotive pressure cap
Then you need a way to connect it to the bottle. You can just go all crazy and cut off the European cap off its hose and pipe clamp this bad boy on. But that's no fun, let's make a THING! Get these at advance auto parts or Lowes or ANY hardware store.
(2) female Universal Air tool connectors. It must be automotive or universal, do not get those industrial versions from harbor freight they will not work http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4...00AV/100063067
(2) air hose to 1/4" attachment. They look like this
(2) pipe clamps, just get a package with these and the pipe clamps included with the hose attachment.
here are some I found on Amazon, these are much cheaper at your local hardware store.
12" of clear 1/4" tubing, Connect this to the hose fittings http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sioux-Chi...0101/202257567
These are all pipe fittings so do not over tighten them and remember to use Teflon tape or thread sealant...
Connect the hose attachments to each side of your 12' hose and clamp the hose to the fittings for a leak free seal. Pro tip put the pipe clamps on the hose BEFORE you push the barbed ends of the brass fitting into the hose. Then pull the clamps over the end of the hose.
Then connect one female universal attachment to the end of the hose. I am a happy with permatex thread sealer so that should work for you too. https://www.permatex.com/products/th...hread-sealant/
Connect the other female universal coupling to the hose coming off the power bleeder bottle... that way you can create a universal bleeder bottle, so when you get a different car you can keep reusing your power bleeder
Now you have a hose that will connect from your bottle to the billet master cylinder cap.
Now you have to pressure test that bad boy to make sure it doesn't leak. No one wants brake fluid spraying through tiny holes at 10-15psi. You have a couple of choices here, just connect everything except the billet aluminum master cylinder cap and pump up the dry bottle to 15 PSI. if nothing leaks you are all set the pneumatic fittings should hold pressure so you can pump up the bottle without it being connected to anything
If you really want to test the master cylinder cap for leaks them you need to connect it to your master cylinder. Make sure you have brake fluid all the way up to the maximum mark. Secure the cap to the master cylinder by first putting it on then turning the three outer ***** to secure it, do not force them just turn them a little until the cap doesn't wiggle. Then turn the middle **** to make a tight seal. Connect all of your hoses to the bottle then connect to the fitting and pump up the motive bottle. No leaks? You are good to go. That last step is a waste of time because the leaks are lease likely to come from the cap and most likely to come from all of those brass air tool fittings you just put together. But do what you must to keep yourself happy. Congratulations you now have a Toyota compatible motive brand pressure bleeder setup!
I used 10psi some people use 15psi some use 12 or 13. Use what you want just DO NOT exceed 15 psi.
Now to bleed the brakes... just watch this video its exactly the same process. Do not...I am serious here, DO NOT over tighten the bleeder screws they torque to 8 ftlbs nothing more just close them snug and STOP!!!
Honestly speaking its a 2/10 on the difficulty scale. If you need more information or a step by step DIY pm me and I will write you up something when I have a chance. I am typing this on my phone so sorry for any typos and later when I get a chance if anyone wants them I will take some pictures of the Motive bottle and the mods I made to it. This is not a unique idea and I took much of it from the Tacoma forums so I claim NONE of this as mine.
I did modify my motive bottle so now I can connect my compressor hose directly to it. I drilled a small hole and screwed a male universal connector into it and sealed the hole with silicone calking. That was all my idea so now I can turn the regulator on my compressor down to 10-15 psi plug the hose into the bottle and let the good times roll.
Last edited by manchild; 04-25-21 at 01:51 PM.
Reason: added pictures
Awesome write up! Thanks for including the links to the parts. I have the power bleeder already from working on previous cars so this will be used when its time to switch brake fluid. Any reason why you are sticking with DOT 3 instead of jumping over to DOT 4?
Any special bleeding procedures for the ABS system on an F-Sport IS200t? I'm installing some Stoptech Stainless Brake lines this weekend and was wondering if the engine needs to be running or if there is any other port to bleed other than the brake calipers?
Any special bleeding procedures for the ABS system on an F-Sport IS200t? I'm installing some Stoptech Stainless Brake lines this weekend and was wondering if the engine needs to be running or if there is any other port to bleed other than the brake calipers?
Perfect, I actually had this setup already to bleed my Tundra and ZZW30. To be honest, I'm a little worried about working on the Lexus even though I have decent line wrenches and tools (mainly because I'm still making payments and any errors will be twice as expensive as the Toyota :P )
Honestly I would've used professional German fluid. ATE Super Blue/Type 200 is the world standard. ATE is one of the worlds largest OEM suppliers. World class. This fluid is superior and can stand up to light track duty.
And a thorough bleed requires software engagement. But a pressure bleed will likely be fine enough for most.
Good thing I bought the full liter because there were bubbles for days in the rear for some reason. Literally took about 15 minutes on the driver's side rear of tiny bubbles. Next time I do a flush, I'll use that ATE Super Blue to know when it's been fully flushed.
I got a pretty solid pedal, but not as solid as I'd assume with the SS brake lines and the F-Sport brakes. I wonder what the software engagement does to the process?
Originally Posted by E46CT
Honestly I would've used professional German fluid. ATE Super Blue/Type 200 is the world standard. ATE is one of the worlds largest OEM suppliers. World class. This fluid is superior and can stand up to light track duty.
And a thorough bleed requires software engagement. But a pressure bleed will likely be fine enough for most.
I got a pretty solid pedal, but not as solid as I'd assume with the SS brake lines and the F-Sport brakes. I wonder what the software engagement does to the process?
It opens up the valves and passages in the ABS/VSC regulator to free trapped air. I believe Lexus calls it "Lexus Air Bleed"--it's an option you select in the menus through special software. BMW does the same in its service manual. Pretty sure every car company does today.
It opens up the valves and passages in the ABS/VSC regulator to free trapped air. I believe Lexus calls it "Lexus Air Bleed"--it's an option you select in the menus through special software. BMW does the same in its service manual. Pretty sure every car company does today.
But this option isn't available without an OBDII specific tool for lexus?
You could always gravity bleed the system. A lot less hands on, and super easy. Just need 4 hoses and 4 old water/drink/gatorade bottles. And it only takes 1 person.
06-25-17, 07:12 PM
Brake flush with motive power bleeder
