Spider webs on paint - Can paint sealant avoid them?
#1
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Spider webs on paint - Can paint sealant avoid them?
Hi CL community,
It's been 3 months since I purchased my 2015 IS and I already saw a few spider webs on different areas of the car. I had been contemplating about getting a paint sealant / clearcoat such as OptiCoat or Ceramic Pro. Now, my question is: can a paint sealant prevent spider webs and for how long?
My father's thoughts and a few friends: A paint sealant helps to maintain the paint's shine - spider webs are natural and they will still be there or reappear.
What would be your advice as to a solution to avoid spider webs? Any suggestions or comments are appreciated.
Thanks
It's been 3 months since I purchased my 2015 IS and I already saw a few spider webs on different areas of the car. I had been contemplating about getting a paint sealant / clearcoat such as OptiCoat or Ceramic Pro. Now, my question is: can a paint sealant prevent spider webs and for how long?
My father's thoughts and a few friends: A paint sealant helps to maintain the paint's shine - spider webs are natural and they will still be there or reappear.
What would be your advice as to a solution to avoid spider webs? Any suggestions or comments are appreciated.
Thanks
#2
Spider webs or swirl marks are almost always caused by improper washing techniques. It does not take very much pressure or grit to cause light swirling. Simply fine dust on a microfiber or even the tag on a microfiber cloth can cause swirls. Swirling is also much more noticeable in darker colors than lighter colors. To prevent this, look up the two bucket wash method with grit guards and try air drying.
A hard nanocoating ptoduct like CQuartz or GTechniq may help to prevent swirling. I personally prefer to coat my paint in multiple layers of sealant and then wax for similar protection.
A hard nanocoating ptoduct like CQuartz or GTechniq may help to prevent swirling. I personally prefer to coat my paint in multiple layers of sealant and then wax for similar protection.
#3
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Spider webs or swirl marks are almost always caused by improper washing techniques. It does not take very much pressure or grit to cause light swirling. Simply fine dust on a microfiber or even the tag on a microfiber cloth can cause swirls. Swirling is also much more noticeable in darker colors than lighter colors. To prevent this, look up the two bucket wash method with grit guards and try air drying.
A hard nanocoating ptoduct like CQuartz or GTechniq may help to prevent swirling. I personally prefer to coat my paint in multiple layers of sealant and then wax for similar protection.
A hard nanocoating ptoduct like CQuartz or GTechniq may help to prevent swirling. I personally prefer to coat my paint in multiple layers of sealant and then wax for similar protection.
#4
To get rid of them its best to get an orbital buffer and some pads with Meguiars finish polish.
To prevent them like stated above use a 2 bucket system and/or use a foam gun.
What you use for drying also can cause scratches/spiderwebbing. Use an electric blower to minimize touching the car or use a waffle weave towel.
When using detailing spray I would stay away from cheap Chinese made microfiber towels that you might find at your local autoshop, Walmart, Costco etc. I will only let Korean made microfiber towels touch my paint as they are the highest quality out there that you can find.
To prevent them like stated above use a 2 bucket system and/or use a foam gun.
What you use for drying also can cause scratches/spiderwebbing. Use an electric blower to minimize touching the car or use a waffle weave towel.
When using detailing spray I would stay away from cheap Chinese made microfiber towels that you might find at your local autoshop, Walmart, Costco etc. I will only let Korean made microfiber towels touch my paint as they are the highest quality out there that you can find.
#5
Lexus Champion
I would encourage you to spend some time on the Automotive Care and Detailing forum (under Lexus Special Interest Forums). There are some amazing contributors on there, and some fantastic information about proper washing techniques, paint coatings and sealants, interior care, etc. I've used the forum a lot and have learned a ton. Good luck!
#6
Autogeek.Net is a great information resource for you to start....
Whats needed is the following:
- a wash
- clay
- compound
- glaze
- sealant / 2-3 coats
- a carnuba wax / 2-3 coats
I use a Porter Cable 7424 with matching pads to each product. This is key. As well, I only use Menzerna or Wolfgang product lines on my car. Likewise, I like chemical guys too. But, you have to pay to play. My microfibers are all korean made and of high GSM.
Proud owner of a Obsidian 350 F Sport AWD with many mods - its always clean and the black looks wet to the look. The last phase of the detail, I use a spray detail to clean everything up.
Whats needed is the following:
- a wash
- clay
- compound
- glaze
- sealant / 2-3 coats
- a carnuba wax / 2-3 coats
I use a Porter Cable 7424 with matching pads to each product. This is key. As well, I only use Menzerna or Wolfgang product lines on my car. Likewise, I like chemical guys too. But, you have to pay to play. My microfibers are all korean made and of high GSM.
Proud owner of a Obsidian 350 F Sport AWD with many mods - its always clean and the black looks wet to the look. The last phase of the detail, I use a spray detail to clean everything up.
#7
Autogeek.Net is a great information resource for you to start....
Whats needed is the following:
- a wash
- clay
- compound
- glaze
- sealant / 2-3 coats
- a carnuba wax / 2-3 coats
I use a Porter Cable 7424 with matching pads to each product. This is key. As well, I only use Menzerna or Wolfgang product lines on my car. Likewise, I like chemical guys too. But, you have to pay to play. My microfibers are all korean made and of high GSM.
Proud owner of a Obsidian 350 F Sport AWD with many mods - its always clean and the black looks wet to the look. The last phase of the detail, I use a spray detail to clean everything up.
Whats needed is the following:
- a wash
- clay
- compound
- glaze
- sealant / 2-3 coats
- a carnuba wax / 2-3 coats
I use a Porter Cable 7424 with matching pads to each product. This is key. As well, I only use Menzerna or Wolfgang product lines on my car. Likewise, I like chemical guys too. But, you have to pay to play. My microfibers are all korean made and of high GSM.
Proud owner of a Obsidian 350 F Sport AWD with many mods - its always clean and the black looks wet to the look. The last phase of the detail, I use a spray detail to clean everything up.
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#8
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
To get rid of them its best to get an orbital buffer and some pads with Meguiars finish polish.
To prevent them like stated above use a 2 bucket system and/or use a foam gun.
What you use for drying also can cause scratches/spiderwebbing. Use an electric blower to minimize touching the car or use a waffle weave towel.
When using detailing spray I would stay away from cheap Chinese made microfiber towels that you might find at your local autoshop, Walmart, Costco etc. I will only let Korean made microfiber towels touch my paint as they are the highest quality out there that you can find.
To prevent them like stated above use a 2 bucket system and/or use a foam gun.
What you use for drying also can cause scratches/spiderwebbing. Use an electric blower to minimize touching the car or use a waffle weave towel.
When using detailing spray I would stay away from cheap Chinese made microfiber towels that you might find at your local autoshop, Walmart, Costco etc. I will only let Korean made microfiber towels touch my paint as they are the highest quality out there that you can find.
#9
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
I would encourage you to spend some time on the Automotive Care and Detailing forum (under Lexus Special Interest Forums). There are some amazing contributors on there, and some fantastic information about proper washing techniques, paint coatings and sealants, interior care, etc. I've used the forum a lot and have learned a ton. Good luck!
#10
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Autogeek.Net is a great information resource for you to start....
Whats needed is the following:
- a wash
- clay
- compound
- glaze
- sealant / 2-3 coats
- a carnuba wax / 2-3 coats
I use a Porter Cable 7424 with matching pads to each product. This is key. As well, I only use Menzerna or Wolfgang product lines on my car. Likewise, I like chemical guys too. But, you have to pay to play. My microfibers are all korean made and of high GSM.
Proud owner of a Obsidian 350 F Sport AWD with many mods - its always clean and the black looks wet to the look. The last phase of the detail, I use a spray detail to clean everything up.
Whats needed is the following:
- a wash
- clay
- compound
- glaze
- sealant / 2-3 coats
- a carnuba wax / 2-3 coats
I use a Porter Cable 7424 with matching pads to each product. This is key. As well, I only use Menzerna or Wolfgang product lines on my car. Likewise, I like chemical guys too. But, you have to pay to play. My microfibers are all korean made and of high GSM.
Proud owner of a Obsidian 350 F Sport AWD with many mods - its always clean and the black looks wet to the look. The last phase of the detail, I use a spray detail to clean everything up.
#11
My suggestion (might be a bit much but if you're removing some swirls might as well go all in)
1) 2-bucket wash with grit guards. I'll mix a blend of Chemical Guys Citrus Wash Red with Adams All Purpose cleaner. This will stripe the paint of any waxes or sealants
2) Spray the car down with an Iron Out. I use Auto Finesse Iron Out. (do this in the shade). This will remove any iron from the paint. Rinse and dry with waffle weave towel (if you have one)
3) Clay the car. I use the nanoskin autoscrub and speedy sponge. If you haven't clayed before you will need a solution to spray on your car while you scrub. I mix up optimum no rinse about 7:1 mixture.
4) Rinse the car and I'll spray IPA before polish. Any random orbital polisher should be fine. I have a rupes and griots that I use. For mild swirls you might be able to hit it with Menzerna SF 4000 or 4500 and get all the swirls out. If they are little more stingy you might start with PF 2500. This is just my guess without seeing the car. For pads I use uber and lake country.
5) After polish you will want to wash the car again (2-bucket wash with grit guards). Any pH neutral formula should work. I go back n forth with Adams Car Shampoo and Chemical Guys Mr. Pink. Dry car completely.
6) I'll then throw a few coats of your favorite sealant on. I like Wolf's and even Adam's Paint Sealant. Let it cure overnight if you can, if not at least a few hours before you apply your carnauba wax.
This is just my process. To some this is a bit much but the detail junkie in me loves it.
1) 2-bucket wash with grit guards. I'll mix a blend of Chemical Guys Citrus Wash Red with Adams All Purpose cleaner. This will stripe the paint of any waxes or sealants
2) Spray the car down with an Iron Out. I use Auto Finesse Iron Out. (do this in the shade). This will remove any iron from the paint. Rinse and dry with waffle weave towel (if you have one)
3) Clay the car. I use the nanoskin autoscrub and speedy sponge. If you haven't clayed before you will need a solution to spray on your car while you scrub. I mix up optimum no rinse about 7:1 mixture.
4) Rinse the car and I'll spray IPA before polish. Any random orbital polisher should be fine. I have a rupes and griots that I use. For mild swirls you might be able to hit it with Menzerna SF 4000 or 4500 and get all the swirls out. If they are little more stingy you might start with PF 2500. This is just my guess without seeing the car. For pads I use uber and lake country.
5) After polish you will want to wash the car again (2-bucket wash with grit guards). Any pH neutral formula should work. I go back n forth with Adams Car Shampoo and Chemical Guys Mr. Pink. Dry car completely.
6) I'll then throw a few coats of your favorite sealant on. I like Wolf's and even Adam's Paint Sealant. Let it cure overnight if you can, if not at least a few hours before you apply your carnauba wax.
This is just my process. To some this is a bit much but the detail junkie in me loves it.
#12
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
My suggestion (might be a bit much but if you're removing some swirls might as well go all in)
1) 2-bucket wash with grit guards. I'll mix a blend of Chemical Guys Citrus Wash Red with Adams All Purpose cleaner. This will stripe the paint of any waxes or sealants
2) Spray the car down with an Iron Out. I use Auto Finesse Iron Out. (do this in the shade). This will remove any iron from the paint. Rinse and dry with waffle weave towel (if you have one)
3) Clay the car. I use the nanoskin autoscrub and speedy sponge. If you haven't clayed before you will need a solution to spray on your car while you scrub. I mix up optimum no rinse about 7:1 mixture.
4) Rinse the car and I'll spray IPA before polish. Any random orbital polisher should be fine. I have a rupes and griots that I use. For mild swirls you might be able to hit it with Menzerna SF 4000 or 4500 and get all the swirls out. If they are little more stingy you might start with PF 2500. This is just my guess without seeing the car. For pads I use uber and lake country.
5) After polish you will want to wash the car again (2-bucket wash with grit guards). Any pH neutral formula should work. I go back n forth with Adams Car Shampoo and Chemical Guys Mr. Pink. Dry car completely.
6) I'll then throw a few coats of your favorite sealant on. I like Wolf's and even Adam's Paint Sealant. Let it cure overnight if you can, if not at least a few hours before you apply your carnauba wax.
This is just my process. To some this is a bit much but the detail junkie in me loves it.
1) 2-bucket wash with grit guards. I'll mix a blend of Chemical Guys Citrus Wash Red with Adams All Purpose cleaner. This will stripe the paint of any waxes or sealants
2) Spray the car down with an Iron Out. I use Auto Finesse Iron Out. (do this in the shade). This will remove any iron from the paint. Rinse and dry with waffle weave towel (if you have one)
3) Clay the car. I use the nanoskin autoscrub and speedy sponge. If you haven't clayed before you will need a solution to spray on your car while you scrub. I mix up optimum no rinse about 7:1 mixture.
4) Rinse the car and I'll spray IPA before polish. Any random orbital polisher should be fine. I have a rupes and griots that I use. For mild swirls you might be able to hit it with Menzerna SF 4000 or 4500 and get all the swirls out. If they are little more stingy you might start with PF 2500. This is just my guess without seeing the car. For pads I use uber and lake country.
5) After polish you will want to wash the car again (2-bucket wash with grit guards). Any pH neutral formula should work. I go back n forth with Adams Car Shampoo and Chemical Guys Mr. Pink. Dry car completely.
6) I'll then throw a few coats of your favorite sealant on. I like Wolf's and even Adam's Paint Sealant. Let it cure overnight if you can, if not at least a few hours before you apply your carnauba wax.
This is just my process. To some this is a bit much but the detail junkie in me loves it.
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