Debadging discussion thread
05-11-10, 07:55 PM
#1
Lexus Test Driver
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Debadging discussion thread
I really wanna debadge my is250 but i know that there are holes behind it. i found "bumper plugs" which plug up the holes for the liscense plate. here is a link
http://aerotect.net/catalog/product_...8f9040466dc3ee
does anyone know if these would fitt in the badge holes? of if there is something similar? if so please link me please!
http://aerotect.net/catalog/product_...8f9040466dc3ee
does anyone know if these would fitt in the badge holes? of if there is something similar? if so please link me please!
05-11-10, 11:32 PM
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Lead Lap
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You can do it yourself for under 20 bucks.
You dont want holes. I dont know what kind of long term damage might occur from water entering. Being the hole is just a large thin hollow space between layers of metal. THe way I filled the holes is not perfect but youd' never notice unless i showed you where I filled it.
You need paintable caulking gel (from lowes/walmart etc. etc.)
A color matching pen and clear coat pen
painters tape
a razor blade
a tooth pick the kind with one blunt end (that's just what i had laying around) or anything small and blunt
Tape around the hole/s. Using a lot of small pieces try to make such wide angles that it's as close to perfect circle around the hole as possible. Dont overlap the tape too much because then you'll have a raised area. Make the hole in the middle of your tape just a bit larger around than the actual hole. It's better to paint a fraction beyond the hole than not cover it all. Then rain could get in or it could come out easier.
Dont think that you can squeeze the caulk into the hole and it will just fill it. behind that hole is a big hollow space between layers of metal for your trunk lip. If you can get a hole in the tip of the caulk tube small enough to fit right over the hole, great but i found that my opening was too large So: I squeezed a little so that some went inside while some remained outside. You'll have a little hershey kiss kind of swirl from pulling the tube away. I used the blunt end of a fancy toothpick to push a little of that gel into the hole without pushing it THROUGH the hole. Take a razorblade and carefully scrape over the hole (against tape not metal) so that it's as flush as you can get it with the caulk extending beyond the rim of the hole (so no gaps). Let dry according to directions (longer actually to be safe). Take the paint pen and use the brush to brush on a thin layer. Let it dry....then another. 3 little coats will do. if you're lucky it will be smooth. I think sanding it might rip it up and pull out the caulk. clear coat once or twice..pull off tape. Even if not perfect, it's SO small that when looking close at the hole you just see a slightly rough itty bitty circle of paint. No one will notice. I'm obsessive about these things and after about a week I totally forgot it was there and not flawless until i saw your post.
mine has held together for about 2 years now. and it took very little time.
I cant imagine that using any kind of bondo or anything would be any easier or any less effective.
Sorry if that was long winded. I'm bad at "the short version"
You dont want holes. I dont know what kind of long term damage might occur from water entering. Being the hole is just a large thin hollow space between layers of metal. THe way I filled the holes is not perfect but youd' never notice unless i showed you where I filled it.
You need paintable caulking gel (from lowes/walmart etc. etc.)
A color matching pen and clear coat pen
painters tape
a razor blade
a tooth pick the kind with one blunt end (that's just what i had laying around) or anything small and blunt
Tape around the hole/s. Using a lot of small pieces try to make such wide angles that it's as close to perfect circle around the hole as possible. Dont overlap the tape too much because then you'll have a raised area. Make the hole in the middle of your tape just a bit larger around than the actual hole. It's better to paint a fraction beyond the hole than not cover it all. Then rain could get in or it could come out easier.
Dont think that you can squeeze the caulk into the hole and it will just fill it. behind that hole is a big hollow space between layers of metal for your trunk lip. If you can get a hole in the tip of the caulk tube small enough to fit right over the hole, great but i found that my opening was too large So: I squeezed a little so that some went inside while some remained outside. You'll have a little hershey kiss kind of swirl from pulling the tube away. I used the blunt end of a fancy toothpick to push a little of that gel into the hole without pushing it THROUGH the hole. Take a razorblade and carefully scrape over the hole (against tape not metal) so that it's as flush as you can get it with the caulk extending beyond the rim of the hole (so no gaps). Let dry according to directions (longer actually to be safe). Take the paint pen and use the brush to brush on a thin layer. Let it dry....then another. 3 little coats will do. if you're lucky it will be smooth. I think sanding it might rip it up and pull out the caulk. clear coat once or twice..pull off tape. Even if not perfect, it's SO small that when looking close at the hole you just see a slightly rough itty bitty circle of paint. No one will notice. I'm obsessive about these things and after about a week I totally forgot it was there and not flawless until i saw your post.
mine has held together for about 2 years now. and it took very little time.
I cant imagine that using any kind of bondo or anything would be any easier or any less effective.
Sorry if that was long winded. I'm bad at "the short version"
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05-11-10, 11:59 PM
#11
Lead Lap
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Didn't mean to seem so!
youre welcome for the simple cheap effective way to fill in the holes.
