Trunk Latch
Hey guys,
So I have a 06 GS300 AWD. My trunk latch just decided to call it quits. Dealership says it's going to be over 900 bucks for JUST the latch. I'm just wondering how hard it's going to be for me to replace it myself. I want to get the part from NOT Lexus, but can't find a trust worthy place to get it from.
So I have a 06 GS300 AWD. My trunk latch just decided to call it quits. Dealership says it's going to be over 900 bucks for JUST the latch. I'm just wondering how hard it's going to be for me to replace it myself. I want to get the part from NOT Lexus, but can't find a trust worthy place to get it from.
Did you confirm its a mechanical problem? My latch decided to quit as well but it turned to be that it got out of programming, disconnecting some cables from the ecu for some minutes and reconnecting solved the issue
Thanks for the question, I wasn't sure if my original post was sufficient information.... Which honestly, it wasn't. It's not the actual latch that's bad. It's the motor that's responsible for popping the trunk with the push of the button on the key fob or in the cabin of the car. The trunk still closes and locks, but it just won't open by pushing the button. I have to open it with my key. So I guess the motor is dead. I don't know if disconnecting some cables from the ecu will fix the issue or not. I need the motor replaced which Lexus is saying the motor is 930 something by itself.
I had the same problem on my '08 GS350. One day, out of the blue, the trunk stopped releasing with the remote or the button inside the vehicle. After cycling the Valet button in the glovebox a couple of times, everything went back to normal.
My trunk opens fine but the motor doesn’t reposition the mechanism to close it properly. To close my trunk I have to pull the emergency lever inside the trunk to reset the closing apparatus. The soft close feature was a nice touch but it’s an costly annoyance once something goes array. I will not spend several hundred dollars to replace or repair it. For now, I’ll just use the workaround method of pulling the release lever to close it.
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I'm pretty sure Propulsion nailed it. The motor isn't repositioning the mechanism so the trunk actually latches. The button in the glove box is pressed now. The original problem was that the trunk wouldn't close AND actually latch so it doesn't open back up. The got the trunk latch working normally, but if I use the motor to pop the trunk, the latch doesn't go back to place. So they have it set up NOW so none of the buttons work. I have to use the key to open and close the trunk. But doing that will at least make sure the trunk stays closed.
I'm pretty sure Propulsion nailed it. The motor isn't repositioning the mechanism so the trunk actually latches. The button in the glove box is pressed now. The original problem was that the trunk wouldn't close AND actually latch so it doesn't open back up. The got the trunk latch working normally, but if I use the motor to pop the trunk, the latch doesn't go back to place. So they have it set up NOW so none of the buttons work. I have to use the key to open and close the trunk. But doing that will at least make sure the trunk stays closed.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/06-11-LEXUS...0AAOSwkgxetcmr
Install a used latch and motor, $129 Or tear apart yours and see maybe you can put grease inside or a fault may pop up
So my trunk struts had given out and I was too lazy to replace them right away, my dealer wanted ~$300 for the pair. Had eventually ordered a pair from AliExpress for ~$20, so just waiting for them to arrive. However, one day when getting stuff out from the trunk, my wife lets go of the lid and it slams shut. Now it won't close properly.
Took it to the dealer to see if it's an alignment problem and they say the "striker" and "closer assembly" need to be replaced. I think that closer assembly is what previous posters have been saying is over 900 USD for the part because there's a motor and electronics that apparently sync with the trunk lid puller motor that works to pull the trunk lid shut. Anyway, I ended up getting those parts on my own from MyLParts and they were very helpful in getting it shipped to me on time. Went to same dealer to get the work done and swap the old parts for the new and they say the new closer assembly doesn't work!
After having read this, which I REALLY should have done before, I am getting the feeling that the part wasn't broken at all and now it just might have been some relay from the glove box trunk valet switch??? $%&@#!!!!!
-VS
Took it to the dealer to see if it's an alignment problem and they say the "striker" and "closer assembly" need to be replaced. I think that closer assembly is what previous posters have been saying is over 900 USD for the part because there's a motor and electronics that apparently sync with the trunk lid puller motor that works to pull the trunk lid shut. Anyway, I ended up getting those parts on my own from MyLParts and they were very helpful in getting it shipped to me on time. Went to same dealer to get the work done and swap the old parts for the new and they say the new closer assembly doesn't work!
After having read this, which I REALLY should have done before, I am getting the feeling that the part wasn't broken at all and now it just might have been some relay from the glove box trunk valet switch??? $%&@#!!!!!
-VS
So my trunk struts had given out and I was too lazy to replace them right away, my dealer wanted ~$300 for the pair. Had eventually ordered a pair from AliExpress for ~$20, so just waiting for them to arrive. However, one day when getting stuff out from the trunk, my wife lets go of the lid and it slams shut. Now it won't close properly.
Took it to the dealer to see if it's an alignment problem and they say the "striker" and "closer assembly" need to be replaced. I think that closer assembly is what previous posters have been saying is over 900 USD for the part because there's a motor and electronics that apparently sync with the trunk lid puller motor that works to pull the trunk lid shut. Anyway, I ended up getting those parts on my own from MyLParts and they were very helpful in getting it shipped to me on time. Went to same dealer to get the work done and swap the old parts for the new and they say the new closer assembly doesn't work!
After having read this, which I REALLY should have done before, I am getting the feeling that the part wasn't broken at all and now it just might have been some relay from the glove box trunk valet switch??? $%&@#!!!!!
-VS
Took it to the dealer to see if it's an alignment problem and they say the "striker" and "closer assembly" need to be replaced. I think that closer assembly is what previous posters have been saying is over 900 USD for the part because there's a motor and electronics that apparently sync with the trunk lid puller motor that works to pull the trunk lid shut. Anyway, I ended up getting those parts on my own from MyLParts and they were very helpful in getting it shipped to me on time. Went to same dealer to get the work done and swap the old parts for the new and they say the new closer assembly doesn't work!
After having read this, which I REALLY should have done before, I am getting the feeling that the part wasn't broken at all and now it just might have been some relay from the glove box trunk valet switch??? $%&@#!!!!!
-VS
And for the follow-up...
Went to an independent shop to get a second opinion, as I figured there was no way the new closer assembly was broken. They took a few days to diagnose the root cause of the trunk release not working. Turns out he needed to "reset" the ECU for the left side bodywork? Best translation I can figure. He was saying worse case would have been needing to replace that particular unit for about $300 or so. But looks like the reset did the job.
Also did swap in the new closer assembly anyway, as the old one was not shutting properly from being slammed shut repeatedly. So now my trunk is all fixed and working back as normal. Switch, remote button and all.
-VS
Went to an independent shop to get a second opinion, as I figured there was no way the new closer assembly was broken. They took a few days to diagnose the root cause of the trunk release not working. Turns out he needed to "reset" the ECU for the left side bodywork? Best translation I can figure. He was saying worse case would have been needing to replace that particular unit for about $300 or so. But looks like the reset did the job.
Also did swap in the new closer assembly anyway, as the old one was not shutting properly from being slammed shut repeatedly. So now my trunk is all fixed and working back as normal. Switch, remote button and all.
-VS









