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Went to an independent shop to get a second opinion, as I figured there was no way the new closer assembly was broken. They took a few days to diagnose the root cause of the trunk release not working. Turns out he needed to "reset" the ECU for the left side bodywork? Best translation I can figure. He was saying worse case would have been needing to replace that particular unit for about $300 or so. But looks like the reset did the job.
Also did swap in the new closer assembly anyway, as the old one was not shutting properly from being slammed shut repeatedly. So now my trunk is all fixed and working back as normal. Switch, remote button and all.
I was able to get it for $550 after some discounts. Apparently, there's a motor attached that enables the lock to grasp on to the striker. It also needs to work in sync with the other motor that pulls the trunk lid all the way shut.
I was able to get it for $550 after some discounts. Apparently, there's a motor attached that enables the lock to grasp on to the striker. It also needs to work in sync with the other motor that pulls the trunk lid all the way shut.
-VS
What is the actual point of the motorized trunk latch on these cars? It seems like a needlessly complex system.
What does "reset the ECU for the left side bodywork" mean? How did the mechanic do it?
Well, from what he tells me, there are a few Electronic Control Units though out the car managing various aspects of the chassis/lights/locks/etc distributed from the main control unit, I suppose. The one handling the trunk latch (sense close, lock, release, pull shut) was likely "jolted" electronically or otherwise, from the trunk slam. So he went in through that Toyota/Lexus car management software (cannot remember the name) and reset the unit. It worked, otherwise, he would have had to replace that particular part. Still ended up with a new expensive trunk latch anyway...