BryanH19

Guys I got a cel light went got it scan and it’s was what I thought was a cat bank 2 code , but there was two that I need help with one is the hydraulic brake booster solenoid circuit (C0226) and right front wheel speed sensor(C0200). I need help with C0226 and C0200 if guys know anything about these issues please help, trying to keep this gs300 forever.

sbagdon

Year, please (it's not in your public profile).

What scan tool are you using, that you are getting C-codes, and not just P-codes (tired of reading/resetting the ABS computer with Tc/E1, wouldn't mind a reader that would read/reset the codes from the ODB-II port)?

Oddly, this has been reported in other threads to be caused by low running-voltage, and the GS is very sensitive to that. What is your voltage when the car is off, and when it's running? If it's below 14.4v when running, fix your voltage issue, and that might drive those codes away.

If 14.4v, seem to remember C020# is for bad signal, and C122# is for no signal (# changes for which corner the code is for). That says it's time to start replacing things, yet that can get expensive, and quickly.

Sensors aren't inexpensive, eBay has the right front for around $125, so start with the easy things, and see what your running voltage is.

BryanH19

I went to advance auto parts and they took like 10 mins to get the codes, tomorrow I’ll go to autozone to confirm them. And sorry about the year didn’t know I can do that (still new to this). And my battery that came with the car is from 2017 so I will check running voltage see what happens from there.

BryanH19

Update went to autozone and the only thing that came on with the check engine light was the code P0430 which is the cat on bank 2. Voltage tested fine and have no other light except the check engine light.

sbagdon

Did Advance clear the C-codes, after they read them, and are the lights out? Or did Autozone only read the P-codes?

BryanH19

im pretty sure they only checked for p codes, I don’t have any lights except for the cel. And I don’t think they cleared them I really hope not . Guy just disconnected from my car and showed me the codes. Would it be worth buying a cheap ob2 and seeing the codes I get? And I forgot to say didn’t have any other light except for the cel.

sbagdon

If a shop read the C-codes yet your ABS light is off, before and after, suspect that these were stored codes (happened in the past), yet were cleared on their own (so the ABS light is out). If the shop cleared the C-codes, see if they come back, and how long until they do.

If the other shop read your P-codes, and the CEL was on before/after, sounds that you need to deal with it. Clear the P-codes, then see how long it takes to come back, if at all. If it comes back in a short period of time, sounds like it's just time to replace the 2nd cat on the car... the vehicle is 20yrs old, and (presumably) has a lot of miles. Looks like RockAuto has the part for about $250+shipping?

So guess, clear the codes, and see if they come back, and if so how long they took to come back.

For reading the odb-ii codes with our iOS device, we use something like this reader, yet it only reads P-codes:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133019512581
and this program:
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/engi...591557194?mt=8

BryanH19

ok that makes perfect sense. The cel before went out by itself it was on for one day about a month ago and came back on yesterday. And it’s still on. And it looks like they were stored codes because I haven’t had any other codes

sbagdon

At least the CEL will go out on it's own, after a predetermined condition... believe for emissions, it's something like a few days of the code-condition going away on it's own. So it can trigger, the CEL will go on, the condition will go away, then the CEL will go out.

Clear the dash, see what light comes back, and how long it takes to come back, then start figuring out how to fix the problem...]

BryanH19

alright will do and will update once I do it.