kamlung

iTrader: (8)

yes if you pull the cable and hold it, it keeps the metal lever down so you can get the module out... it's a combination of both pulling on the outside door handle and tugging on the inside cable...

are you going to time me to the 5 mins?

that child safety lever always get stuck on the way out...

LexusK

iTrader: (14)

Would you guys buy these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/69130-30110-...pVenQE&vxp=mtr

Are these the right motors? 10mm round shaft?


rockauto has these for $85.79

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....940147&jsn=235

GS3KID

Ive bought the motor in the top link and its been going strong for a year now. thats not a bad price for 4 motors on amazon theyre usually 5-12$ a piece if you hunt hard enough on ebay.

GS3KID

Just for an FYI you probably have seen the cheap actuator cases on eBay saying somewhere along the lines of 4 pin (or 2 or 6 pin) for scion Lexus Toyota and they list tons of models including our car. A few members on this post have warned against them and some say just to take the motor out if you get played.

So I swapped the motor from the cheapo actuator into my oem casing..... It lasted 4 months before it started failing by the 5th it's now currently dead. I didn't think there would be a huge difference not using mubichi motors but I'm for sure only going by them from now on. My other rear door is going on past a year now and my front doors are going on well over 2 they have mabuchi

lyonkster

I don't fully get the point of buying these cheap Chinese actuators. Folks (myself included) have seen the use of these result in the annoying double pump; others have said that they don't last. Yet for the same price as these actuators, you can buy genuine Mabuchi motors and put them into the OEM actuators, and be good as new.

I understand that it's a bit more work to cut open the OEM actuators, but if you are capable of removing the actuator to begin with, you probably have the skills to cut open the actuators and replace the motor. And you'll know that you won't have to redo the job a year later .

bruceb58

Agreed, I would just rebuild them with the ebay motors. For the effort it takes to remove them form the door, definitely not worth it using the Chinese crap. I would pay more for OEM before doing that.

LexusK

iTrader: (14)

Ok, so I will probably go with the Amazon motors then. Can anyone confirm they are the correct ones?

jim662

I'd say you don't want those. The feedback says they spin backwards to what the RX300 requires. In order to make them work, you'd have to cut into you wiring harness and switch two wires. Its hard to tell who is selling what on amazon. Can't tell if its the same guy. There is a company on ebay selling backward spinning motors which aren't the genuine Mabuci motors. I don't know if its a bad batch or something else. I've ordered from this guy in the past and they've worked fine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/111503859035?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Also check out post #1153 in this thread.

Just noticed that the current seller of those motors responded to the negative comments and even identifies the ebay seller by name as selling knock off backwards spinning motors. Who knows? The current seller says he's selling the correct motors and looks to have worked to satisfy buyers who got the junk motors. Maybe Amazon switched to a new seller and they are selling the genuine article. Best to contact the seller first if you want to deal through Amazon.

coachleon

First, ....thanks to all for the information. ....I would have never had the guts to try this without all of your help!!

If anyone can help me here I would truly appreciate it!!!

Both actuators on my 2002 SC430 basically gave out. ....I ordered 2 replacement motors from the ebay link on this thread. I am not a great DIY-er, ....but took my time and followed the instructions given here as closely as possible. It took me a long time but I feel I figured everything out. I was able to get to the "black box" - and it opened pretty easily. The motors appeared to be a perfect match. Out with the old - in with the new. The "worm" extension fit perfectly on the new motor and all clipped back together nice and neat. I was having real trouble with one "hook" part that needed to go back on the actuator. Since I needed to do both doors anyway I decided to go ahead with the passenger door to see if I could find its location. - silly me- the passenger door does not have a lock and therefore no "hook clip" - but it did allow me to confirm where the hook needed to go. ....so I finished with the passenger door. ....all went seemingly very well. ...hooked the battery up to give it a try. ...first push of the lock and the latch unlocked nice and strong. Sweeeeeet. ....second push of the lock, ...nada, ....zip. ....just a "click" in the control box of the driver door which I assume happens every time you push the lock - you just don't hear it because the lock is working. I thought it might have something to do with the driver side being ripped apart, ...so I went ahead and finished that one. Got everything back together. "click" "click" ....nothing more.

Anyone have any ideas? ....I guess it is possible the new motors are "bad" ...but both of them??? ....seems much more likely that I did something wrong. Why in the world would it give me one "lock" and then nothing?

I will try to "rev" my old motors with a battery and put them back in to trouble shoot the new motors, ...but if anyone has an idea for me I would love to hear it.

Thanks so much!!!!

Coachleon

vr4/sc400

Hi Coachleon,

I would start by cutting your possibilities in half. Remove the black Actuators from the latch housing. Holding them in your hand, plug into your harness and lock/unlock. If they consistently work then the problem is your latch/attachment. If they don't then it's time to crack them back open and trouble shoot.

Regards,
Lenny

coachleon

Lenny,

Thanks much for the quick reply! ....that is a great idea! ....would you suggest I pull both of them at the same time? ....do you see any possible "carry over" issues that could affect both sides if the problem is coming from just in one door?

Thanks again!

Leon

vr4/sc400

I'd start with one side, figure out what you did wrong and then apply that same fix to the other side.
One thing I would keep my eye on - where the black actuator connects to the latch is a white/green plastic finger that moves when actuated. The latch itself has 2 small holes that this finger can fit into. If you put that finger in the wrong hole it could bind up like you are describing.

Regards,
Lenny

coachleon

ok, ...thanks to Lenny and all the other great tips listed I was just able to complete both door lock actuators on my 2002 SC430. It took me about 6 hours to complete both doors, ...but that time is misleading. First, ....because I am a rookie I was going very slowly. Second, ....I made several mistakes that required numerous and complete "start-overs." Also, ...I had to deal with several damaged parts that were not related to the actual actuators. ...I want to "pay it forward" as best I can, ...so I thought the following tips might help someone else save some time and headaches:

1) Let me end the controversy - you do NOT need to remove the window, speaker, or mirror to complete this repair. Yes, ...the inside of the door is a cramped place to work, ...but the window track in the "up" position doesn't really impede you much more then if it was down. Just make sure that you have the assembly including the cover firmly re-secured to the side of the door. I missed one screw when reinstalling it which caused it to stick out just far enough to catch the window track leading to a complete "re-do"

2) The driver side actuator has a 4" hook that is not on the passenger side (part of the lock system - no lock on the passenger door). Make sure you notice where it goes as you take everything apart. Mine fell off before I could see it and I had a very tough time finding out where it hooked.

3) Do not remove all 3 "side bolts" holding the latch / actuator in place until you pull the pin out of the lock socket. It is almost impossible to get enough pressure on that pin without it still being attached to the door.

4) Once you replace the motor (...and yes, ....for gosh sakes spend the $6.00 and buy the new ones on ebay rather then trying to "rev" the old ones), make sure you really get the "black box" sealed back together again. Both of mine seemed to click back together really well so I didn't worry about it. It turns out that both of them "blew apart" with the force of the first lock attempt (strong little suckers those motors), ...and I had to start all over on both doors. ...I didn't want to glue them, so I used a combination of cable ties and electrical tape pulled really tight and all is working fine.


Seriously - If I can pull this off anyone can. ....my quote for repair was $962 from the local shop (not even Lexus shop!) ...even with all the extra time it took me that is pretty good payment per hour! Also, I almost forked out $200 EACH for USED actuator assemblies. It is actually an EASIER repair to replace the little motors then to replace the whole assembly since you don't have to deal with the cables. The motors seem to be the only part that fails, ....so you really should try it this way first!!!


Hope this helps and adds a touch of confidence if you needed it like I did!

bullhog

[QUOTE=TRD911;2720902]Does anyone have the Toyota body pages on how they think you should do this job? I have looked for it but cannot find it. There are several pages that walks you through this job like the Toyota manual shows you how to do things.

Thanks in advance[/QUOTE

TRD911, you did an excellent write up and pics. on this very needed subject!! I think that you should contact a few auto repair manual companies and procure yourself a position writing manuals for a living...Keep up the great work, rob

LexusK

iTrader: (14)

Will be attempting the DIY today with ENVY. Hope we got the right motors...