Door Lock Acutuators DIY ???
03-07-09, 05:08 PM
#287
Driver School Candidate
Warning for DIY'rs
I couldn't unlock my rear door manually or with electric lock and I had asked for help in a “door won’t open” post but the discovery and solution is probably better to be in this thread.
I finally was able to open the door. I studied the opposite good door and determined there was no way to slim jim the door but I was able to determine what I needed to do. I ended up drilling a 3/8” hole through the door handle to access the lock. I could post a picture of where you would need to do this but it would be posting a way to break in the car although most thieves would just break the window (I could post if there’s enough interest). I plugged the hole with black epoxy so it could be driven without looking hideous but it actually looks decent (good thing my car is black) so I may not replace it.
I did take a picture of what caused the jam and have it posted here. It is pretty apparent what the problem is. I couldn’t get it to un-jam until I took it apart. How did this happen?
Well I hate to admit it but this was a unit that I took apart last summer to replace the motor. Worked fine for about 6 months then it locked up. The replaced motor wasn’t the issue but gluing the case back together probably was. I had carefully cut the case apart and the rest of the case is pretty intact and even with the case open, I couldn’t see how the case could deform enough to allow the worm gear to climb on top of the tooth. Everything fits tight. But with high temperature variations, vibration, Murphy’s law, it is obviously possible. I’m not the only one who has replaced the motor so is this just a fluke? I was very happy to save $200 but I have to share the bad with the good.
So a word of caution to those willing to replace the motor instead of replacing the entire actuator, be very careful gluing the case back together. This time I added some self tapping screws along with the glue as shown. If it jumps again, then it wasn’t a fluke and I’ll buy a new one, at least I already have the have the hole in the handle.
One last note, in a previous post I suggested lifting the door handle helps to get the actuator out. Now that I have done this on both rear doors and twice on the right rear, lifting the handle didn’t seem to help this time. It just takes some patience to pull, twist and turn the actuator out. You definitely don’t need to take the handle out (which is very difficult to access with the actuator in place).
I finally was able to open the door. I studied the opposite good door and determined there was no way to slim jim the door but I was able to determine what I needed to do. I ended up drilling a 3/8” hole through the door handle to access the lock. I could post a picture of where you would need to do this but it would be posting a way to break in the car although most thieves would just break the window (I could post if there’s enough interest). I plugged the hole with black epoxy so it could be driven without looking hideous but it actually looks decent (good thing my car is black) so I may not replace it.
I did take a picture of what caused the jam and have it posted here. It is pretty apparent what the problem is. I couldn’t get it to un-jam until I took it apart. How did this happen?
Well I hate to admit it but this was a unit that I took apart last summer to replace the motor. Worked fine for about 6 months then it locked up. The replaced motor wasn’t the issue but gluing the case back together probably was. I had carefully cut the case apart and the rest of the case is pretty intact and even with the case open, I couldn’t see how the case could deform enough to allow the worm gear to climb on top of the tooth. Everything fits tight. But with high temperature variations, vibration, Murphy’s law, it is obviously possible. I’m not the only one who has replaced the motor so is this just a fluke? I was very happy to save $200 but I have to share the bad with the good.
So a word of caution to those willing to replace the motor instead of replacing the entire actuator, be very careful gluing the case back together. This time I added some self tapping screws along with the glue as shown. If it jumps again, then it wasn’t a fluke and I’ll buy a new one, at least I already have the have the hole in the handle.
One last note, in a previous post I suggested lifting the door handle helps to get the actuator out. Now that I have done this on both rear doors and twice on the right rear, lifting the handle didn’t seem to help this time. It just takes some patience to pull, twist and turn the actuator out. You definitely don’t need to take the handle out (which is very difficult to access with the actuator in place).
03-14-09, 12:12 PM
#288
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Another Source for the Actuator Motors?
Looks like both links to ebay offers have ended. Anyone have any additional sources for the actuator motors?
btw - Excellent writeup. I am anxious to get the motor for my passenger side!
-Derrick
btw - Excellent writeup. I am anxious to get the motor for my passenger side!
-Derrick
03-14-09, 01:33 PM
#290
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03-22-09, 02:55 PM
#295
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
well... this johnson motor might work but it is not the same size. it is about 3mm shorter. not a big deal. but you woul hate to buy a few hundred and have them not work. I have bad news about the 95 that I bought that I paid more to have them shipped from china then what the motors cost. when they arrived they where wrong. now they said they just don't have them. I saw the johnson motor as well just didn't follow through with it. becareful cause some of the motors will turn the wrong way. not a big deal just swap the wires that go to the motor.. I think im done with this endevor...
BP
BP
04-10-09, 02:16 PM
#297
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That is pretty much it. I hope this helps out anyone that was thinking about doing this themselves. I did not find if hard. It took me about an hour and a half. I am very impressed with Lexus (Toyota) quality.
I am not liable for any information I have given. I have represented this to the best of my ability. If you do attempt to do this do so at your own risk.
I have taken the actuator assembly apart.. what a joke.
I am not liable for any information I have given. I have represented this to the best of my ability. If you do attempt to do this do so at your own risk.
I have taken the actuator assembly apart.. what a joke.
Great pics and good advice. I just finished installing a new driver's side actuator ($296 at Lexus dealer) in my GS430 based on the details provided above. It took me exactly one hour start to finish - probably would have taken less if I had prepared for the window to activate unexpectedly - got my arm stuck for a few minutes - what an idiot!!
I probably could have pulled the fuse for the window and made it easier, but removal of the window was not necessary to complete this job. Good luck.
Last edited by roblack1; 04-10-09 at 02:25 PM.
05-01-09, 10:48 PM
#300
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Thanks for the info!!! Went to the Lexus dealer and they said that all 4 of my door actuators are dead. Does this mean that the "motor" is dead or is the door actuator a separate thing? I have a 2001 GS 300.
I saw that someone mentioned that the Mabuchi motor parts can be ordered on EBAY, but at a cost of $5 for 5 motors. I did not see this one, but I did see the FC 280PT-22125 which looks like it is only one motor for $7.50. Would you have any info on how to get a pack at the cheapest cost? Thanks!!!
I saw that someone mentioned that the Mabuchi motor parts can be ordered on EBAY, but at a cost of $5 for 5 motors. I did not see this one, but I did see the FC 280PT-22125 which looks like it is only one motor for $7.50. Would you have any info on how to get a pack at the cheapest cost? Thanks!!!