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Door Lock Acutuators DIY ???

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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 04:43 AM
  #346  
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It is original as far as I can tell but I am the second owner
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 03:53 PM
  #347  
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I need to change the motor on my front passenger side. Is there anyone in So Cal that knows how to do this? How much? I have the motors
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 08:11 PM
  #348  
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Thanks LexusMBF. Finally got around to doing it today. I have swapped the new cap and brushing. Everything is pretty much back in place but I have to wait until my Loctite glue set in in about 24 hours. LOL I am afraid to even roll down the driver window for now. One crazy thing happened during the removal of the rods from the handle, I trip something and all windows starting rolling down. Luckily I was able to remove my hand fast enough as to not get smashed by it. I just want to thank everyone on this forum, you guys rule! I am praying that my remote works in about 24 hours...
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 01:42 PM
  #349  
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So, I'm about to attempt this DIY soon on my car and I just had a couple of questions:

What tools do I need? A Torx T30 wrench (can I just put a T30 bit in a socket wrench?), a 10mm bolt wrench and Phillips screwdriver are the obvious ones, but it wasn't clear if I also needed "regular general-purpose grease" (for the window regulator arm?) or epoxy/LocTite 271 (for something else?). A utility knife apparently also would come in handy, as would a vise/torch/channel-locks to get off the old motor's coupling? And then, to open and re-seal the actuator housing, do I need a Dremel and hot glue gun?

Any clarifications you can provide would be much appreciated. Thanks!
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 02:56 PM
  #350  
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Ok, had no problem with anything except it still doesn't work. After some diagnosing of the problem I figured out the the spring is no strong enough to rewind the gear after the motor is off. Either the system is maintianing voltage on the motor (and burning them out - damn thing gets hot! ) or the plastic parts have worn enough to bind. I think it is the later, since it doesn't rewind very good on the bench with one side open. So I guess I have to buy the whole actuator part. Anyone have an idea of the part number for the Right Front Passenger door actuator is? Thanks for the DIY with pictures.
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 10:23 PM
  #351  
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Originally Posted by zach
but it wasn't clear if I also needed "regular general-purpose grease" (for the window regulator arm?) or epoxy/LocTite 271 (for something else?). A utility knife apparently also would come in handy, as would a vise/torch/channel-locks to get off the old motor's coupling? And then, to open and re-seal the actuator housing, do I need a Dremel and hot glue gun?
You dont really need to take out the window regulator or the window. It just makes a bigger mess. Best thing to do is roll up the window all the way and leave it. You'll need to take out the door handles off (held by 10mm bolts) if you're doing the front. No need to take the handles off if you're doing the rear.

No need to get the motor's coupling off. It's a lot of work for nothing. Instead, I've always replaced the cap itself. It holds the brushes and they're the ones that goes bad. You should be able to swap these pretty quickly, and they're easier to take off than the coupling.

You can dremel, but I used a chisel instead. It's not as clean but I've done plenty enough that I am confident in my work. Hot glue will be fine. In fact its preferred over regular epoxy, at least for me.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 03:28 AM
  #352  
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Are the mabuchi motors the SAME in all four door actuators ?

I'm going to buy one for my drivers door and figured if they are the same I should just buy 4 and replace them all.

Thanks,

DaveC
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 07:24 PM
  #353  
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I have my motors now, I got 4 of them. Now I'm thinking that replacing the end cap might be the way to go.

Can the members who have done this (replacing the end cap) show how to remove the end cap from the original, and new motors.
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 10:20 PM
  #354  
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When you look at the cap, you can see that it's held onto the metal body by 2 metal tabs. You can't miss it. Just pry it up so you can pull the cap out. That's it
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 04:21 AM
  #355  
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Originally Posted by GSteg
When you look at the cap, you can see that it's held onto the metal body by 2 metal tabs. You can't miss it. Just pry it up so you can pull the cap out. That's it
I see what your talking about, I just can't get something under it to pry them out of the way.
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 08:55 AM
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I used a very small flathead screwdriver, but not too small that the screwdriver will break when you pry the metal tabs
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 09:06 AM
  #357  
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Originally Posted by GSteg
I used a very small flathead screwdriver, but not too small that the screwdriver will break when you pry the metal tabs
I using the same thing, I just can't get under it.
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 09:38 AM
  #358  
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You kind of have to push the screwdriver in while prying. Just be careful not to have it slip and injure yourself.

Just keep on doing it. You'll eventually get it.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 06:03 AM
  #359  
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I did this DIY yesterday and all went well. I didn't read these last couple of post and replaced the coupling instead of the end cap. I wish I wouldv'e, getting the coupling off was the hardest part.

I did see a strange thing, my motor didn't have the flat black head coupling like the ones in the pictures of this DIY, instead it was star shaped and my motor actually had Mabuchi on it I'm wondering if the actuator had been replaced before.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 06:41 AM
  #360  
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Where can I get two of those Mabuchi 12 volt motors for my 2000 RX300 Lexus front door locks? Does anybody out there know? The model # I need is: FC-280SC. Please help! Thanks.
Regards; Andy G.
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