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Oh for the 3UZ I'm not sure. I would guess much more difficult since you have twice as many cams and from my understanding of the 2UZ, you need to be very careful about cam positioning and lock those in place when doing the TB/WP. I assume the 3UZ is very similar
Oh for the 3UZ I'm not sure. I would guess much more difficult since you have twice as many cams and from my understanding of the 2UZ, you need to be very careful about cam positioning and lock those in place when doing the TB/WP. I assume the 3UZ is very similar
Yeah, the TB/WP don't seem bad, and there are marks for lining everything up properly so that the gears don't need to be locked. But as far as removing the VVTi actuators/cam gears, I think it gets a bit more complex. Thanks for the input though anyways!
Still waiting on my harmonic balancer before doing the timing belt and front main seal, soooo retrofit done! Definitely time consuming, and had to do a lot of modifications to random bits. But overall I'm very happy with how it turned out.
Painted the bezel satin black. Not too shiny, not too matte. Decided to keep the orange reflector for an accent color.
Had to do a good bit of dremeling on the headlight bowl. That dust is *nasty*. And yes, I ended up smoothing it out nicer than it looks in that second pic.
Annnd skip a bunch of steps and boom! Done! Pardon the filthy car...
Man, what a difference these lights make. It's hard to tell in the pics, but everything is so much more crisp at night now. They have much, much better range and cutoff, as well.
Got an alignment last weekend after adjusting the suspension a bit to fit the 255s easier. The first pic is what, after an hour, they tried to send me home with.............
The second pic is what I got after saying "Uh, look at that rear camber. I don't care if it's there, but can we at least make it *even*?" Had to teach the tech how to use the upper rear camber arms, but he got it perfect once I did.
I tried to get them to leave front toe at 0 as well, but the front desk guy was insistent that "It would be best at 'the middle' of factory specs" and "You were way out here *points to outside of the slider image* and now you're here *points to middle of slider image*. So it's better." Boy, how can you fight that argument.....
I will say, I'm very happy they even adjusted it - given that I'm getting to be a bit modified...and this was a lifetime alignment at Firestone lol. I gave the tech a few extra bucks for his troubles.
Not bad looking. Ya cars are build with some toe designed in for various characteristics of the vehicle. Especially rwd vs fwd. So when they put your car into the machine, you want center spec, not zero. The when you're driving down the road it's close to zero. All in all the alignment looks good and pretty even. Maybe someday you can get some adjustable arms for the front to get the camber back in if it bothers you, but I don't mind some negative camber. And I don't know if you planned this, but it's actually a good thing performance wise on a rwd vehicle to have slight camber in the rear and more upfront for more performance driving/handling. So your setup is pretty good. Gives you optimal grip for launch with less in the rear, and grip in the turns with more up front. But if you want optimal tire life, you don't want excessive camber on any.
Not bad looking. Ya cars are build with some toe designed in for various characteristics of the vehicle. Especially rwd vs fwd. So when they put your car into the machine, you want center spec, not zero. The when you're driving down the road it's close to zero. All in all the alignment looks good and pretty even. Maybe someday you can get some adjustable arms for the front to get the camber back in if it bothers you, but I don't mind some negative camber. And I don't know if you planned this, but it's actually a good thing performance wise on a rwd vehicle to have slight camber in the rear and more upfront for more performance driving/handling. So your setup is pretty good. Gives you optimal grip for launch with less in the rear, and grip in the turns with more up front. But if you want optimal tire life, you don't want excessive camber on any.
Yeah, I was hoping for 0 toe for a bit more responsiveness for turn-in. That was the recommendation from my friends that do track days/autocross frequently.
And yep, I'm actually very happy with the camber setup. Pushes it to rotate a bit more in corners. The front camber wasn't *planned* per se, but it's pretty ideal for the handling I'm looking for, so I'm happy with it. The car's feeling great right now.
And tire life? What's that? I don't think I've had a set of tires last over 12k miles on my last 3 cars...Frequent Tail of the Dragon trips and hard backroad driving in general kills em pretty quickly.
Found a 'JDM Aristo' front strut bar on eBay in Malaysia for a good price, ordered it, it shows up and turns out to be a Cusco! That was a nice surprise. This thing is super stout, and I'm excited to feel how it affects the steering response. I've heard they make a big difference on these cars.
Can't run the engine cover anymore, unfortunately, thanks to the 3UZ being tall and this bar being *thicc*. I'm planning to take some time to polish it up more and to paint the mounts when the weather warms up some. Also gonna clean up everything that's exposed now - thanks to the engine cover being removed.
Welp, dug in this weekend to do the front main seal, and turns out the cam seals are leaking as well. So I buttoned it back up, put a new crank pulley on it (old one was dry rotting), changed the oil, and am gonna tackle the cam seals when it's warmer and I can take a weekend to do it.
Still have yet to do the cam seals (the leak really isn't bad enough for it to be worth the effort at this point), but took the car to Tail of the Dragon again last weekend and it did even better with the new bushings, strut bar, and sway bar! I also installed an LRB Speed undertray. It bolted up great and is much, much better than the flappy plastic undertray I had on there before. Oh, and I threw on some underglow for giggles this weekend