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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 06:54 PM
  #136  
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Quick update....I just finished installing the Walbro high pressure pump....I can tell now that my original pump was on its way out. My wideband actually reads rich @ WOT and maintains it through the rev range.

I could not do that before it would just go to 11-12.5 @ WOT then back to 18.0 in a flash. My revs during vacuumand boost are lightning fast now. The only negative is the whine the fuel pump makes. At idle with no radio or AC you can hear the noise. I am sure I can do something to suppress it.

I will be installing the SMT6 piggyback within this week to try and get a decent self tune. I will be needing some help here, so anyone with experience with it please give some advice.

I will be posting more pics and a youtube video as soon as I can. I am really busy with school and cleaning up the garage after months and months of clutter have built up.

I would suggest getting a high pressure fuel pump if any of you guys are to supercharge the 1uzfe, just to be on the safe side. The FMU is definetely needed.
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 07:00 PM
  #137  
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Also the car seems a lot quicker off the line if I bypass the fuel pump ECU, by jumping the "FP" & "+B" ports at the engine data box.



I have another fuel pump ECU and it behaves the same way. I guess the increased voltage is making the pump go into high gear quicker.
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 07:24 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by Ca12los69
Also the car seems a lot quicker off the line if I bypass the fuel pump ECU, by jumping the "FP" & "+B" ports at the engine data box.



I have another fuel pump ECU and it behaves the same way. I guess the increased voltage is making the pump go into high gear quicker.
those big walbros like to have thier own power supply. in the turbo dsm world, we always make our own circuit. get a 10ga. power wire, a relay and a 10 ga. ground wire to make it. just use the original power wire for your trigger to the relay. that way the pump gets full battery voltage all the time, no voltage drop caused by the tiny stock wiring.
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 08:10 AM
  #139  
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I know this is purely for sound, but do you plan to install a BOV?
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 10:44 AM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by avalon42
I know this is purely for sound, but do you plan to install a BOV?
u cant, u use a bypass valve but the plumbing for a turbo style BOV is pretty much impossibly/pointless on a roots/screw type supercharger.
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 10:49 AM
  #141  
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they have em for Superchargers but they sound nasty, i rather have the nice whine when you blow pass em. they'll be like WTF! i got smoked by a granddad....
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 01:31 PM
  #142  
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I know a guy with blown SC400 who says he is installing a BOV, I dont know how it is routed, but I am content with my whine

Good news...I installed the rear seats today and the fuel pump noise can not be heard even at idle with no radio/no AC.

I will test drive it later for the first time since the fuel pump install.
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Ca12los69
I know a guy with blown SC400 who says he is installing a BOV, I dont know how it is routed, but I am content with my whine

Good news...I installed the rear seats today and the fuel pump noise can not be heard even at idle with no radio/no AC.

I will test drive it later for the first time since the fuel pump install.
its easy on centrifugal type superchargers since the plumbing is similar to that of turbos (ie- a 2.5-3in. air intake pipe going from supercharger to IC/intake)
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 02:27 PM
  #144  
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he has the exact same setup as I do. He said he was replacing the bypass valve for a HKS BOV. I will ask him for a video... It should only be for style instead of substance right???
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 08:30 PM
  #145  
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pretty much, its just going to whistle and vent the bypass air out into the atmosphere instead of back into the intake.
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 09:07 PM
  #146  
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very nice setup...I read through all the posts and looks good man! Congrats on a boosted 1uz
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 09:57 PM
  #147  
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I hope I get the funds to pick up a project like this! I'd have to buy another car first.

Would mind PM'ing me what your total cost was?
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 10:07 PM
  #148  
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BTW, you really have to get a Dyno run soon!
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 09:26 PM
  #149  
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A bit of bad news....the damn ecu keeps giving me a TPS code everytime I floor it or get past a certain throttle angle. If I cruise and barely push it I can drive normally, but as soon as I push the peddle down 1/4 way the engine bogs down and bucks. I will follow all the wiring back to the ECU and probably replace the sensor.



When I swapped ECU's it solved it, but just today it came back in the morning. I tried my old TPS and it did the same thing.



One question, did I mess the ECU up when I left the jumper wire connecting the Fuel pump (FP and +b) test ports on the engine diagnostic box??



I hope it is not an ECU issue. from my understanding if the idle contacts of the TPS do not open when the throttle is at a certain point than the injectors will be shut and timing retarded.



any similar experiences????
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Ca12los69
A bit of bad news....the damn ecu keeps giving me a TPS code everytime I floor it or get past a certain throttle angle. If I cruise and barely push it I can drive normally, but as soon as I push the peddle down 1/4 way the engine bogs down and bucks. I will follow all the wiring back to the ECU and probably replace the sensor.



When I swapped ECU's it solved it, but just today it came back in the morning. I tried my old TPS and it did the same thing.



One question, did I mess the ECU up when I left the jumper wire connecting the Fuel pump (FP and +b) test ports on the engine diagnostic box??



I hope it is not an ECU issue. from my understanding if the idle contacts of the TPS do not open when the throttle is at a certain point than the injectors will be shut and timing retarded.



any similar experiences????
maybe u broke the TPS or the wire going from it to the ecu is shorting?
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