Ling2IS

iTrader: (4)

Looking to swap a friend's 350 front brake calipers, pads, rotors, shims, dust shield, anti rattle pin - basically, everything necessary - onto my 250 and vice versa. Surfed the web to try and find the entire detailed process, but a few questions remain:

1. Is it absolutely necessary to bleed/flush the brake fluid? If so, any videos on this process specifically done on the ISx50 would be helpful.
2. How do you remove the banjo bolt holding the brake line to the calipers?
3. How do you remove the dust shields?
4. Do the rotors on the 350 break loose without any threading of bolts like 250?
5. Torque specs on caliper bracket and calipers? Socket sizes?

I know I'm missing some questions, but hopefully these cover a majority of my immediate concerns. Visuals for everything would be great!

Jeff Lange

iTrader: (1)

Not all the info you asked for, but most:

1. Yes, it is absolutely necessary.
2. You just remove them like any other bolt, there is nothing special about their removal.
3. First you must remove the wheel bearing/hub assembly, the dust shield is sandwiched between the bearing and knuckle.
4. Yes, they are floating rotors exactly like the IS250 rotors.
5. As follows:
Bleeder Screws: 8 ft-lbs
Brake Hose Banjo Bolt: 29 ft-lbs
Caliper to Knuckle Bolts: 58 ft-lbs

Jeff

Ling2IS

iTrader: (4)

Awesome, thanks for your input Jeff. A few more questions came up:

• Are there copper washers in between either side of the banjo bolt?
• Once the brake line is detached from the caliper from both 250 and 350, they should be reconnected quickly to avoid air right?
• Any tutorials/DIYs on flushing/bleeding the brakes for our specific cars? No luck with searching on here.

Jeff Lange

iTrader: (1)

1. Yes there are washers, the factory ones are actually a single part where both washers are connected together, but separate washers can be used and often come with aftermarket calipers.
2. Yes, as quickly as possible, but either way you will still need to bleed the air out, but the less air the better.
3. Not off the top of my head, no.

Jeff

AARONHL

Yes, you will have to bleed a little because air will get in by the time you disconnect the caliper and reconnect the line into the new caliper.

For you AWD drive guys who need to remove the hub to replace the dust shield, a trick is to pop the wheel cover off and cotter pin out on the axel, then put the wheel back on and lower the car on the ground, you will be able to spin the axel nut off without the wheel spinning. Will need a breaker bar or long pipe to get some leverage.