Front end issues?
Lead Lap
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 705
Likes: 3
From: California
athe subframe is loose
Man,
I am ticked. I wrote a long email about my experience, and it went way out into cyberspace before I was done.
I'll make it short this time and tell you that my SUBFRAME BOLTS were loose.
My alignment technician found it. The manager told him to go outside and tighten EVERY bolt he saw underneath the front of the car.
On the subframe bolts he was able to get nearly a turn out of them. They were supposed to be tight, but not tight enough.
My subframe was dropped to change the motor mounts and I just didn't get them tight enough.
It took the technician about 45 minutes to check and recheck all the bolts underneath, and when the car came down, it has been perfect for over 2 years now.
Those big subframe bolts are strong, and I have never seen anyone snap one of those off. Put some torque on them, and that will stop the subframe from shifting on braking and turning. It only moves a few millimeters each way, but it is enough to drive a person crazy.
If all your other parts have been changed, this is probably your problem. take your time and do it right.
The problem should definitely go away.
I am ticked. I wrote a long email about my experience, and it went way out into cyberspace before I was done.
I'll make it short this time and tell you that my SUBFRAME BOLTS were loose.
My alignment technician found it. The manager told him to go outside and tighten EVERY bolt he saw underneath the front of the car.
On the subframe bolts he was able to get nearly a turn out of them. They were supposed to be tight, but not tight enough.
My subframe was dropped to change the motor mounts and I just didn't get them tight enough.
It took the technician about 45 minutes to check and recheck all the bolts underneath, and when the car came down, it has been perfect for over 2 years now.
Those big subframe bolts are strong, and I have never seen anyone snap one of those off. Put some torque on them, and that will stop the subframe from shifting on braking and turning. It only moves a few millimeters each way, but it is enough to drive a person crazy.
If all your other parts have been changed, this is probably your problem. take your time and do it right.
The problem should definitely go away.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 21,942
Likes: 64
From: FL
Man,
I am ticked. I wrote a long email about my experience, and it went way out into cyberspace before I was done.
I'll make it short this time and tell you that my SUBFRAME BOLTS were loose.
My alignment technician found it. The manager told him to go outside and tighten EVERY bolt he saw underneath the front of the car.
On the subframe bolts he was able to get nearly a turn out of them. They were supposed to be tight, but not tight enough.
My subframe was dropped to change the motor mounts and I just didn't get them tight enough.
It took the technician about 45 minutes to check and recheck all the bolts underneath, and when the car came down, it has been perfect for over 2 years now.
Those big subframe bolts are strong, and I have never seen anyone snap one of those off. Put some torque on them, and that will stop the subframe from shifting on braking and turning. It only moves a few millimeters each way, but it is enough to drive a person crazy.
If all your other parts have been changed, this is probably your problem. take your time and do it right.
The problem should definitely go away.
I am ticked. I wrote a long email about my experience, and it went way out into cyberspace before I was done.
I'll make it short this time and tell you that my SUBFRAME BOLTS were loose.
My alignment technician found it. The manager told him to go outside and tighten EVERY bolt he saw underneath the front of the car.
On the subframe bolts he was able to get nearly a turn out of them. They were supposed to be tight, but not tight enough.
My subframe was dropped to change the motor mounts and I just didn't get them tight enough.
It took the technician about 45 minutes to check and recheck all the bolts underneath, and when the car came down, it has been perfect for over 2 years now.
Those big subframe bolts are strong, and I have never seen anyone snap one of those off. Put some torque on them, and that will stop the subframe from shifting on braking and turning. It only moves a few millimeters each way, but it is enough to drive a person crazy.
If all your other parts have been changed, this is probably your problem. take your time and do it right.
The problem should definitely go away.
Thanks again..Tony
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 21,942
Likes: 64
From: FL
Its definitley a shifting/popping sound when i turn. It must happen when the car is under a load such as braking or turning...
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 21,942
Likes: 64
From: FL
Lead Lap
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 705
Likes: 3
From: California
The subframe bolts hold the subframe up to the fixed chassis. They are the largest bolts under there, and they have what looks like a TORX head. A 12 point socket fits over them and tightens. The subframe itself is between the front bumper assembly and the rear frame that the steering rack connects to. When the bolts are taken out, that entire center section drops down to gain access to lower part of the engine, including the oil pan.
I use a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and 12 point sockets to put enough torque on them to keep them from moving. I lost track of just how many there are, but it is at least 4, and as many as 8 bolts.
These bolts connect right to the front chassis beams. You can plainly see them if you look closely. The bolt straight up into the chassis.
I use a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and 12 point sockets to put enough torque on them to keep them from moving. I lost track of just how many there are, but it is at least 4, and as many as 8 bolts.
These bolts connect right to the front chassis beams. You can plainly see them if you look closely. The bolt straight up into the chassis.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 21,942
Likes: 64
From: FL
The subframe bolts hold the subframe up to the fixed chassis. They are the largest bolts under there, and they have what looks like a TORX head. A 12 point socket fits over them and tightens. The subframe itself is between the front bumper assembly and the rear frame that the steering rack connects to. When the bolts are taken out, that entire center section drops down to gain access to lower part of the engine, including the oil pan.
I use a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and 12 point sockets to put enough torque on them to keep them from moving. I lost track of just how many there are, but it is at least 4, and as many as 8 bolts.
These bolts connect right to the front chassis beams. You can plainly see them if you look closely. The bolt straight up into the chassis.
I use a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and 12 point sockets to put enough torque on them to keep them from moving. I lost track of just how many there are, but it is at least 4, and as many as 8 bolts.
These bolts connect right to the front chassis beams. You can plainly see them if you look closely. The bolt straight up into the chassis.
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olddog
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