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I just got my alignment after installing all the new parts. Can anyone help me read this? I know generally what it means, but not in relation to what it "should" be for our cars.
I notice the rear camber is slightly negative, is that fine/normal? I'm not sure if green is just for positive and red just for negative, or if it means something is "good" or "bad"?
digging around I found these alignment specs, which def looks like the rear is out of spec. Luckily I can change the insert in the rear RCA block to add a degree of positive camber and get it back in spec.
These are way off too... What is the cheapest solution to the fronts? Is it replacing my current RCA blocks with these? https://meganracing.com/mrs-lx-0251
is it some sort of pillowball type mount for the coilovers?
I want the least labor and least cost to get the front in spec. It looks like I only need +1 degree or so.
EDIT: from the limited information I've found on those RCA's, it says they do -6 degrees, lol... that def won't work for me.
For the rear, you can adjust using your wonderful RCA. However, you need to make sure you change just enough (middle setting?) or your tires will rub the fender again. Check that.
For the front, if you want to adjust the camber, get the Mevotech set of upper control arms ($300). They are pretty much the SPC 72270 rebadge, and SPC sells for $600 (the guy from 2GS section confirmed this)
I think if you can get the technician try to adjust the front closer to -1.0 you should be good to go. You need some negative camber for this car. If not I wouldn't too worry about it. Check your tires every week for uneven wear. This is one of the reason I why I bought 2 expensive tires for the rear and 2 cheaper tires for the front Official alignment spec for Front Official alignment spec for Rear
For the rear, you can adjust using your wonderful RCA. However, you need to make sure you change just enough (middle setting?) or your tires will rub the fender again. Check that.
For the front, if you want to adjust the camber, get the Mevotech set of upper control arms ($300). They are pretty much the SPC 72270 rebadge, and SPC sells for $600 (the guy from 2GS section confirmed this)
I think if you can get the technician try to adjust the front closer to -1.0 you should be good to go. You need some negative camber for this car. If not I wouldn't too worry about it. Check your tires every week for uneven wear. This is one of the reason I why I bought 2 expensive tires for the rear and 2 cheaper tires for the front Official alignment spec for Front Official alignment spec for Rear
I will dig into all of this when I get home. Do you have a part # or link to that thread for the Mevotechs?
are they tubular steel like the godspeeds? I didn’t look too hard at spc because of the price.
Mevotech Supreme Control Arms CMS861207
"This Adjustable Control Arm works as Left and Right side, it has to be flip to have it adjust to the side that is required more details on"
[h1]Mevotech Supreme Control Arms CMS861207
"This Adjustable Control Arm works as Left and Right side, it has to be flip to have it adjust to the side that is required more details on"
Ok, now I'm digging in and I have a few questions:
1) what does that bit about flipping it mean?
2) what increments can you adjust the camber in, or is it a set camber change of 2 degrees by installing it?
3) I notice the mevotech mentions castor adjustment, but none of the others do. Is that specific to that one?
Also, what design is better? The oem looking design of the spc/mevotech or the more square looking design of the godspeed and the manzo which came up in other CL threads? Is any one of them physically superior or is there an advantage?: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MANZO-FRONT...-/232978723611
1. Both left and right of the control arm are the same, just flip them to install to either left or right.
2. You can go from 0 to +2 or -2 in small increment. You have -1.6 on the left, and -1.4 right now, you can make both 0. BGW70 had this installed on his 02 car.
3. Not sure about that one.
Megan/TruHart/Manzo/GodSpeed/.... they are all rebadge. It seems to me they all come from one manufacture in China or Taiwan.
4. Yes that's the thread. If you haven't done lower control arm (LCA#2) look to see if it's torn then replace it. Torn LCA#2 bushing is another reason for inner tire wear. What about ball joint? If everything is working fine, save the $ and don't bother.
BTW, for your ref, my front camber is about -0.8/-1.1, toe 0.0/0.0. Rear camber -1.7/-1.6 & Toe 0.1/0.15. I'll need to install my rear SPC camber kit soon to make it -1.0.
Factory spec can tolerate up to -1.3, if you can manage to adjust the front to that, you don't have to worry about the upper control arm but pay attention to the worn LCA#2.
1. Both left and right of the control arm are the same, just flip them to install to either left or right.
2. You can go from 0 to +2 or -2 in small increment. You have -1.6 on the left, and -1.4 right now, you can make both 0. BGW70 had this installed on his 02 car.
3. Not sure about that one.
Megan/TruHart/Manzo/GodSpeed/.... they are all rebadge. It seems to me they all come from one manufacture in China or Taiwan.
4. Yes that's the thread. If you haven't done lower control arm (LCA#2) look to see if it's torn then replace it. Torn LCA#2 bushing is another reason for inner tire wear. What about ball joint? If everything is working fine, save the $ and don't bother.
BTW, for your ref, my front camber is about -0.8/-1.1, toe 0.0/0.0. Rear camber -1.7/-1.6 & Toe 0.1/0.15. I'll need to install my rear SPC camber kit soon to make it -1.0.
Factory spec can tolerate up to -1.3, if you can manage to adjust the front to that, you don't have to worry about the upper control arm but pay attention to the worn LCA#2.
So if I'm understanding you correctly, you think the SPC/Mevotech is a better made control arm than the megan racing style? Can I see if LCA#2 needs replacing with the car on the ground? What am I looking for exactly?
I'll ask them to get the fronts to -1 if they can, should I shoot for the same on the rear? How do you know what part of the range of "in spec" they should be?
Yes.
You can check the LCA#2 with a floor jack, see the diff from this picture, the rubber bushing is torn. (left of the number on the bottom)
For the rear, factory spec states -1.17 is good but it can do up to +-.5 so your rear camber can be anything from -0.67 to -1.67. If you have your rear RCA setting at the middle that would be perfect.
For the front it goes from 0.17 to -1.33, anything in between would be good.
Since you are lower, you should use as much negative as possible to avoid rubbing.
Yes.
You can check the LCA#2 with a floor jack, see the diff from this picture, the rubber bushing is torn. (left of the number on the bottom)
For the rear, factory spec states -1.17 is good but it can do up to +-.5 so your rear camber can be anything from -0.67 to -1.67. If you have your rear RCA setting at the middle that would be perfect.
For the front it goes from 0.17 to -1.33, anything in between would be good.
Since you are lower, you should use as much negative as possible to avoid rubbing.
This is great information. Getting the SPCs through mevotech looks like a great deal.
If the lower bushing is torn, do you have to replace the whole arm because the labor for removing/pressing a bushing is more?
I bought OEM arms since it's cheaper for me that way and I did the installation myself (easy) I don't trust 3rd party rubber bushing, I don't think poly bushing is good for this application and then the labor cost to cut out the rubber & press in the new bushing. If you want to track the car, go for poly bushing. https://www.shopfigs.com/v3/FE-L6009
Also, if you have someone do this, ask them how much would it cost to do poly bushing for your steering rack. https://www.shopfigs.com/v3/2GS_SC430SR-40_87
07-08-20, 11:32 AM
Alignment Specs
