LED Conversion Project
Ok so i had a chat with the pros over at iJDMToy and got some info. Apparently the front and rear turn signals MUST have some type or decoder or resistor to work properly and avoid the dash warning light. The OEM tail light (7443) is a dual filament (driving light and brake), so they make a special bulb for that application but it also uses a decoder. The front turn signal decoder would fit easily but the rear turn signal and tail light decoders, as there is no space, would be a tight fit. The ones labelled as "Error-free" would also work but are more pricey. Additionally, as the actual color of the rear housing is red and orange, it wouldn't really serve a purpose to change them especially since I'm using smoke tint film on the tail lights. I was only hoping to increase the brightness as I'm moving from 20% film to 5% film. He told me the brightness is the same as halogen and wouldn't cause much change. In the headlight though, it would only remove the slight amber tint of the turn signal behind the grooved glass. Anyway, so it seems that I won't be taking on the swap and will just leave things as is.
Pole Position
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 3,114
Likes: 617
From: CA
I had bad experience with the LED replacement so I would not recommend the product.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...-disaster.html
However, others have successfully installed them.
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CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 12,397
Likes: 453
From: GA
That's what happened to me, back to halogens. I did use the whitest Halogen High Beams I could find, it actually had a bit of a violet hue.
Last edited by mandyfig; Oct 10, 2018 at 12:54 PM.
Driver
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 80
Likes: 3
From: WI
Here are go:
1. Prep and test all LED bulbs. I used alligator clips for the battery.
2. 7440 Reverse lights, easy twist off, replace, test and then plug in.
3. 168 Park Lights. The access is through the fender liner, remove trim, fold away the liner as much as required, it is ok because it will re-shape back. Twist off the assembly, mount LED, test to make sure it lights up, you may need to rotate polarity, also adjust the wire (pull away) to make sure contact is made.
4. 9005 DRL Remove the plastic trim covers on the sides. Note that the supplied decoder is wired wrong. I used the tester LED provided to confirm positive connection. RED wire to RED wire meant that I had to remove the tab and then I used tape to make sure the connector stayed plugged. The decoders will just lay outside the lamp assembly.
PASS side. In my case since I had the Injen intake, the air box was gone. Easy to pull out the DRL. Test the LED and then install.
DRIVER side. This was the tricky one. Be patient and you will need small hands to be able to get in there. I ended up cutting through the rubber covers to get in there.
Pictures:
1. Prep and test all LED bulbs. I used alligator clips for the battery.
2. 7440 Reverse lights, easy twist off, replace, test and then plug in.
3. 168 Park Lights. The access is through the fender liner, remove trim, fold away the liner as much as required, it is ok because it will re-shape back. Twist off the assembly, mount LED, test to make sure it lights up, you may need to rotate polarity, also adjust the wire (pull away) to make sure contact is made.
4. 9005 DRL Remove the plastic trim covers on the sides. Note that the supplied decoder is wired wrong. I used the tester LED provided to confirm positive connection. RED wire to RED wire meant that I had to remove the tab and then I used tape to make sure the connector stayed plugged. The decoders will just lay outside the lamp assembly.
PASS side. In my case since I had the Injen intake, the air box was gone. Easy to pull out the DRL. Test the LED and then install.
DRIVER side. This was the tricky one. Be patient and you will need small hands to be able to get in there. I ended up cutting through the rubber covers to get in there.
Pictures:
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