LED Conversion Project
#91
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
Just as a heads up to anyone going to change the BA9 Dome halogen for LED's. Mine, which came from iJDMtoy, worked perfectly. No soldering, no switching of wires, no NEED for flat panel LED's. Nothin'. Looks great, and seems like the perfect brightness for the cabin! Now just waiting for 2nd order with the high beam/DRL, parking, and reverse lights to arrive before throwing photos up. It looks so clean with these LED's. I'm as happy as a fat kid in a candy store.
#92
Just as a heads up to anyone going to change the BA9 Dome halogen for LED's. Mine, which came from iJDMtoy, worked perfectly. No soldering, no switching of wires, no NEED for flat panel LED's. Nothin'. Looks great, and seems like the perfect brightness for the cabin! Now just waiting for 2nd order with the high beam/DRL, parking, and reverse lights to arrive before throwing photos up. It looks so clean with these LED's. I'm as happy as a fat kid in a candy store.
#93
#94
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
-TRUNK- Use a pry tool like a flat head screwdriver along the edge of the complete housing. The entire unit will start to pull out but don't force it. Once you see the split btn the clear housing, reposition the flat screwdriver and use a twist motion to pop it off. Test for polarity, reassemble.
- DOOR PANEL- Gently pop the entire unit off the door using the screwdriver btn the "leather" and clear plastic. and then use your hands to unplug the unit by disconnecting the retainer clip. Then take the clear cover off and change the bulb. Replug. If it works, reassemble. If not, flip the bulb.
-DOME- APPROACH FROM THE WINDSHIELD, or you might end up putting a dent in the plastic around the light. and use a controlled leverage motion as not to put pressure against the glass. Remove old bulb (will be HOT if you've left the doors open and keep switch on "Door"). replace and reassemble.
-FOOTWELL & GLOVE BOX- really easy, but I recommend reaching behind the panels to unscrew the bulb and harness as a unit rather than removing the clear lens (Might scratch up the paneling). Way easier to reach behind AND to check for polarity (since the space was too small for my fat fingers to get into if doesn't light on first attempt). Reassemble. REMEMBER- THESE WILL ONLY TURN ON WHEN HEADLIGHTS ARE ON, so leave them on to check for polarity. Got the light? Reassemble.
-VANITY- Just use the flat end to slightly lift the plastic lens at the notches and use your fingers. Check for polarity, reassemble.
-REVERSE- lay down under the tail bumper and follow the light harness to the housing and just twist the bulb holder and then pull out and change it. Let them hang. Use a 2nd person to check that they come on when you drop into reverse (or find a long parking lot and run along side while the car takes off in reverse, but be sure to wear your running shoes so you can catch up). Then reassemble.
-LICENCE PLATE- Use your fingers and find the "tab" which is usually located toward the midline of the car. Use your fingers to push the tab towards the ipsilateral tire and this will release it enough to pull it down. Just twist the harness and bulb will be easy to remove and change. Check polarity then reassemble.
Hope this helps, but remember... check for polarity THEN reassemble. :-p
Last edited by ShawnOk; 04-17-13 at 10:13 PM.
#95
Thanks!
My door panel, footwell and trunk lights (original bulbs) come on even when car is off if door or trunk is opened. Did you mean the led lights will only come on when headlights are on?
My door panel, footwell and trunk lights (original bulbs) come on even when car is off if door or trunk is opened. Did you mean the led lights will only come on when headlights are on?
#96
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
1) Leave the door open when installing the interior lights to check that you have the bulbs in correct polarity.
2) Trunk will turn on once the trunk is open.
3) You will have to leave the headlights on PARK in order to test the polarity of the License plate and the glove box bulb. (At first i didn't understand why the glove box wouldn't turn on, but then i turned on the headlights and they worked).
On any of these replacements, if the power is on to the receptacle and the LED light doesn't light up, flip the bulb around to change the polarity. Once all the LED's are in, all the lights will work as normal and as Lexus intended them to.
#97
Moderator
Thread Starter
Well described, thanks ShawnOk.
#102
Moderator
Thread Starter
Like it a lot. Now am a bit inspired about dropping the bumper and doing my fogs.
#103
Moderator
Thread Starter
#104
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
No, actually I didn't drop the bumper for any of the lights.
For the passenger side, I changed the High/DRL through the engine bay after removing the Air Filter Housing. Turn signal light can also be done through the bay, but I choose not to change it. All the other bulbs on passenger side can be done from inside the passenger wheel well. Fog was really easy on this passenger side but the parking light was tough. As a reminder to anyone who attempts the parking lamp, the parking lamp can split into TWO adapter units, therefore making it easier to take out. The most distal part (away from the mount) will slide out with enough force allowing for more space to work. THEN twist the bulb housing out. and change the bulb.
For the driver side, I changed the High/DRL through the engine bay. I removed the dressing panel and the ECU cover and still it was a tight squeeze to get my hands in there. After removing the halogen, I put the LED bulb in first, then connected the decoder harness, and then connected the power to the decoder since it was so tight. I changed the Parking Lamp through the Driver Wheel Well, really easy once you know that is separates into two pieces. And had to do the fog from under the front lip b'c the windshield washer reservoir was in the way when attempted through the wheel well. Still a pretty easy install in my opinion when compared to dropping the bumper and fear of messing up the headlight gaskets or operator error/damage.
For the passenger side, I changed the High/DRL through the engine bay after removing the Air Filter Housing. Turn signal light can also be done through the bay, but I choose not to change it. All the other bulbs on passenger side can be done from inside the passenger wheel well. Fog was really easy on this passenger side but the parking light was tough. As a reminder to anyone who attempts the parking lamp, the parking lamp can split into TWO adapter units, therefore making it easier to take out. The most distal part (away from the mount) will slide out with enough force allowing for more space to work. THEN twist the bulb housing out. and change the bulb.
For the driver side, I changed the High/DRL through the engine bay. I removed the dressing panel and the ECU cover and still it was a tight squeeze to get my hands in there. After removing the halogen, I put the LED bulb in first, then connected the decoder harness, and then connected the power to the decoder since it was so tight. I changed the Parking Lamp through the Driver Wheel Well, really easy once you know that is separates into two pieces. And had to do the fog from under the front lip b'c the windshield washer reservoir was in the way when attempted through the wheel well. Still a pretty easy install in my opinion when compared to dropping the bumper and fear of messing up the headlight gaskets or operator error/damage.
#105
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
Here are the DRL's in the Daytime. As noted earlier in this post; when flipping to High Beam, there is a very slight increase, if any, in intensity and may not be enough for some to pass state inspection. Luckily for me, Oklahoma doesn't require inspection. So it's all gravy on my end. I think the clean look of the DRL and Parking Lamps made this whole project completely satisfying in my opinion. Plus the interior just looks so stone cold clean with the bright white with dark wood and black leather. The 2nd photo are the Parking Lamps with a different camera.