Subwoofer problem
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 748
Likes: 9
From: CA
Subwoofer problem
I thought that one of my rear speakers was blown because of a rattling noise, whether the car was in motion or not. I called up the dealer and told the writer to order a new one under my 3rd party warranty. I then checked further by fading to back only and playing with the balance. I found the rattle was only apparent with the balance in the middle. If you turned it all the way to left or right the rattle disappeared. The advisor said it was definately the sub. Does that sound right?
The good news is that my warranty goes until 2015 (7 yr-0 deductable) and has already paid for a new head unit and 2 speakers, on a 2002! I would be surprised if I have problems. As I discussed before this warranty was offered through my credit union. $1230 for 7 years and paid out $2500+ plus so far. Starts to make up for all the extended warranties that I never collected on.
The good news is that my warranty goes until 2015 (7 yr-0 deductable) and has already paid for a new head unit and 2 speakers, on a 2002! I would be surprised if I have problems. As I discussed before this warranty was offered through my credit union. $1230 for 7 years and paid out $2500+ plus so far. Starts to make up for all the extended warranties that I never collected on.
Lead Lap
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 592
Likes: 1
From: CA
I don't think it's the sub.
To know for sure, just leave it balanced to the one side, rear only playing and then just crank the hell out of the system. Turn up the bass too.
If it rattles -then it's either the sub or the 1 rear speaker.
If no rattle, crank all the way up again but just the sub with the other rear speaker.
If it rattles now, but didn't when playing the 1st side speaker, it's the 2nd speaker, not the sub - try again by fading in just the front speaker, full blast ahead, and if norattle, then it's definitely not the sub.
By full blast, I mean just before you hear distortion so you don't blow the speakers If too loud, then step outside the car so you don't blow up your ears!
Good luck!
To know for sure, just leave it balanced to the one side, rear only playing and then just crank the hell out of the system. Turn up the bass too.
If it rattles -then it's either the sub or the 1 rear speaker.
If no rattle, crank all the way up again but just the sub with the other rear speaker.
If it rattles now, but didn't when playing the 1st side speaker, it's the 2nd speaker, not the sub - try again by fading in just the front speaker, full blast ahead, and if norattle, then it's definitely not the sub.
By full blast, I mean just before you hear distortion so you don't blow the speakers If too loud, then step outside the car so you don't blow up your ears!
Good luck!
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 748
Likes: 9
From: CA
Actually I had the volume cranked. Fronts were set to zero (Fader) and then I went (balance) back-Right (no rattle), then back-left (no rattle), and then center (Bad rattle).
I have never had a seat belt problem in the back (unlike many others) They are secured (magnetically) and the car is stationery.
I stiil think the service writer might be right.
I have never had a seat belt problem in the back (unlike many others) They are secured (magnetically) and the car is stationery.
I stiil think the service writer might be right.
Lead Lap
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 592
Likes: 1
From: CA
Actually I had the volume cranked. Fronts were set to zero (Fader) and then I went (balance) back-Right (no rattle), then back-left (no rattle), and then center (Bad rattle).
I have never had a seat belt problem in the back (unlike many others) They are secured (magnetically) and the car is stationery.
I stiil think the service writer might be right.
I have never had a seat belt problem in the back (unlike many others) They are secured (magnetically) and the car is stationery.
I stiil think the service writer might be right.
Whether you have the fronts only on or the rear only on, the sub is working just the SAME EXACT WAY. So if you don't get the rattle when only the fronts are on, then the problem is the rears. Or the rears and the sub together because together they are causing so much volume of air to move around causing somehing else to rattle.
Again, did you have it cranked with just the front left and right playing without the rears playing? What happend?
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 748
Likes: 9
From: CA
OK-I cranked the volume to the front only. Rattle (in the back middle) was heard only with the balance in the middle-Could not hear with balance set all the way left or right. I think it was there and could not be heard over the volume of the front speakers. The volume is much louder when you go all the way left or right, instead of the middle. I still think it is the sub-No?
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Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 748
Likes: 9
From: CA
problem Solved
Yep-no more rattling! $680 for a new subwoofer. Warranty company picked it up-so far they paid for a new head unit, 2 regular speakers, and now the subwoofer. My system is now almost new. Sounds great! I love my warranty, but I'm not sure they like me. Still in effect until 2015 with zero deductable on an 02! Kind of surprised that the speakers don't last longer. I like my music loud, but not so you can hear it from a block away. The head unit was a problem with the CDs not ejecting, another common problem.
John
John
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Lead Lap
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 592
Likes: 1
From: CA
Glad it was fixed and under warranty but...
SIX HUNDRED EIGHTY DOLLARS!!?!?!?!?!??!?!?!?!
Honestly, that thing is not worth more than $80. Then again, they told me that just the piece of wood that hides the car stereo goes for $500... You can get one of the best SQ (Sound Quality) 12" subs easily for $150 that will destroy that ML sub (about $120 for a stock 8" size). If you really enjoy music the way you say you do, I would have gone that route (but it wouldn't be free). And it would work with your stock amp. Hell, I would have installed it for you for free!
Lexus should just say the sub sells for $1680 because no matter what they say it's totally ridiculous. As I mentioned before in another thread, NO ONE would ever buy that sub if it were in any car stereo shop - EVER - at that price (even @ $100)
Well, the main thing is that it was covered under warrenty and you're a happy campler again
If I were happy with the sound, I would have been happy too
SIX HUNDRED EIGHTY DOLLARS!!?!?!?!?!??!?!?!?!
Honestly, that thing is not worth more than $80. Then again, they told me that just the piece of wood that hides the car stereo goes for $500... You can get one of the best SQ (Sound Quality) 12" subs easily for $150 that will destroy that ML sub (about $120 for a stock 8" size). If you really enjoy music the way you say you do, I would have gone that route (but it wouldn't be free). And it would work with your stock amp. Hell, I would have installed it for you for free!
Lexus should just say the sub sells for $1680 because no matter what they say it's totally ridiculous. As I mentioned before in another thread, NO ONE would ever buy that sub if it were in any car stereo shop - EVER - at that price (even @ $100)
Well, the main thing is that it was covered under warrenty and you're a happy campler again
If I were happy with the sound, I would have been happy too
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