AC Stopped Working after battery charge
2006 w/105k - it's my daily
Pulled the battery to throw it on the charger while I had it up on jackstands for a brake job.
When I put everything back together, AC was no longer blowing cold air.
What I've checked:
1. Climate control self diagnostic throws no codes (00)
2. No codes in techstream with the engine running
3. All A/C and heater related fuses are good
4. A/C COMP relay is good (swapped it with the horn relay)
5. compressor clutch engages and disengages when A/C button is pressed in cabin
6. A/C manifold shows 100psi on both high and low side with engine warm and A/C on max
7. Replaced the battery (it was time anyway, and I was grasping at straws
)
From everything I've been able to determine, this means that my compressor has given up the ghost. I'm guessing that the battery work pushed it over the edge somehow.
Questions (all of these are assuming that it is the compressor and I'm replacing it in my driveway):
Is there anything else it could be? I would really prefer not to replace the compressor right now but with Alabama summer fast approaching and a black car it's not really optional.
The compressor doesn't look to hard to remove from underneath, but I can't see how to get at the condenser drier/filter - anyone have the service manual pages on how to replace the drier element in the condenser?
Do I need to purge/flush the system or will changing the filter and desiccant element do the trick? I'll get a compressor prefilled with oil.
Thanks in advance
Pulled the battery to throw it on the charger while I had it up on jackstands for a brake job.
When I put everything back together, AC was no longer blowing cold air.
What I've checked:
1. Climate control self diagnostic throws no codes (00)
2. No codes in techstream with the engine running
3. All A/C and heater related fuses are good
4. A/C COMP relay is good (swapped it with the horn relay)
5. compressor clutch engages and disengages when A/C button is pressed in cabin
6. A/C manifold shows 100psi on both high and low side with engine warm and A/C on max
7. Replaced the battery (it was time anyway, and I was grasping at straws
)From everything I've been able to determine, this means that my compressor has given up the ghost. I'm guessing that the battery work pushed it over the edge somehow.
Questions (all of these are assuming that it is the compressor and I'm replacing it in my driveway):
Is there anything else it could be? I would really prefer not to replace the compressor right now but with Alabama summer fast approaching and a black car it's not really optional.
The compressor doesn't look to hard to remove from underneath, but I can't see how to get at the condenser drier/filter - anyone have the service manual pages on how to replace the drier element in the condenser?
Do I need to purge/flush the system or will changing the filter and desiccant element do the trick? I'll get a compressor prefilled with oil.
Thanks in advance
Sorry this is of no help, but I hope someone will chime in that can help you.
If you've had your question answered by another source, please update and let us know what exactly was causing the issue and how it was resolved.
Thanks much.
Anyone got any ideas -- @OBP @doobs @DshngDaryl @mandyfig ????
If you've had your question answered by another source, please update and let us know what exactly was causing the issue and how it was resolved.
Thanks much.
Anyone got any ideas -- @OBP @doobs @DshngDaryl @mandyfig ????
Because the passenger side brake system is so close to the compressor, I would take the wheel off again and see if you disconnected the compressor on accident or possibly broke or pinched a wire.
Since it is illegal to evacuate R-134 into the atmosphere, you will want to have a mechanic evacuate your system before you open it.
Usually, on other cars, the desiccant bag is in the round tubes of your condenser. You unscrew the bottom and put a new bag in. You will need to put a vacuum on it before you refill, or else ice crystals will form and cut up all the rubber gaskets in the system and in the new compressor.
You can rent a vacuum pump for free at o'reilleys or autozone.
Since it is illegal to evacuate R-134 into the atmosphere, you will want to have a mechanic evacuate your system before you open it.
Usually, on other cars, the desiccant bag is in the round tubes of your condenser. You unscrew the bottom and put a new bag in. You will need to put a vacuum on it before you refill, or else ice crystals will form and cut up all the rubber gaskets in the system and in the new compressor.
You can rent a vacuum pump for free at o'reilleys or autozone.
Last edited by DshngDaryl; Apr 2, 2026 at 10:37 AM.
@DshngDaryl
Thanks for the reply.
The AC comp on my car is on the driver side - typo?
I'll jack it up and check but I didn't get into the engine bay at all when doing brakes (except for the master cylinder reservoir, which is well away from the AC compressor).
I can see where the desiccant bag goes, but it looks pretty challenging to actually service without pulling the condenser - not a lot of space between the bottom of the desiccant tube and a frame piece. Going to give it a shot with a flexible grabber tool.
I'm going to give the valve replacement (detailed here) a shot before I do the full AC comp replacement - I see you in that thread as well
Thanks for the reply.
The AC comp on my car is on the driver side - typo?
I'll jack it up and check but I didn't get into the engine bay at all when doing brakes (except for the master cylinder reservoir, which is well away from the AC compressor).
I can see where the desiccant bag goes, but it looks pretty challenging to actually service without pulling the condenser - not a lot of space between the bottom of the desiccant tube and a frame piece. Going to give it a shot with a flexible grabber tool.
I'm going to give the valve replacement (detailed here) a shot before I do the full AC comp replacement - I see you in that thread as well

If your gauges are showing 100 psi on both sides with the clutch engaged and the compressor is definitely turning, then the compressor has failed and is building no pressure whatsoever. With the compressor running, you should be seeing 150+ on the high side and around 30 on the low, and that's with ambient temps around 75 degrees. In hotter weather the high side can easily be 100 psi more. It was just time for that compressor to give up.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
That’s pretty much what I expected. Assuming I’ll need to replace the compressor, condenser, and flush the system. I’d like to do the expansion valve as well but it looks like an absolute bastard to get to.
probably ordering parts from rockauto. Is there any wisdom as to brands to avoid? Obviously denso is going to be top choice but if there are cheaper options that are known to be reliable…
probably ordering parts from rockauto. Is there any wisdom as to brands to avoid? Obviously denso is going to be top choice but if there are cheaper options that are known to be reliable…
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@ASEtech
Any way I can talk you into sharing some
advice for flushing the system / removing the AC condenser? Looks like I can get to the condenser from the front by removing a few bolts but not sure - think I can figure this out even if that’s not the case.
what I’m not sure about, and can’t find a procedure for, is flushing the evaporator and other parts I’m not replacing.
Any way I can talk you into sharing some
advice for flushing the system / removing the AC condenser? Looks like I can get to the condenser from the front by removing a few bolts but not sure - think I can figure this out even if that’s not the case.
what I’m not sure about, and can’t find a procedure for, is flushing the evaporator and other parts I’m not replacing.
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