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Can you take a picture of the key you have? I know that same year LS came with remote door locks and alarm system, but no immobilizer for the engine, which may be why your light doesn't show any activity.
Start by checking the basics - Spark, Fuel Pressure, Injector Actuation, Timing Belt. Inspect spark plugs and wires, see how old they are, or if isolation is damaged. Here is a tool to check how strong the spark is, good coil, distributor and wires should be able to spark through about 8-10mm air gap. For the Fuel Pressure, you should still have Return Line, take it off and crank the engine, see if the fuel will start pouring out, it is a little crude of a method, but will do in a pinch. For injectors, use either a stethoscope or an LED light to check that you have signal from the ECU coming in. If you have OBD2 port, you can check if the ECU will output RPM when you crank the engine, it is very important.
You mentioned that the engine was spinning rather quickly, does it feel like it has any compression? One thing that can happen if the car sits is oil draining from the cylinders, and since the compression relies in a significant part on the oil film between the rings and cylinder wall, it can result in the engine loosing compression. To remedy this, take all the spark plugs out and pour a little bit of oil in each cylinder, then spin the engine with no plugs to push excess oil out, preventing hydrolock.
Other thing that can cause no compression is a slipped Timing Belt, on those cars it is easy enough to check, you just need to take the spark plug wire covers and align harmonic balancer with "0" mark on the cover.
Can you take a picture of the key you have? I know that same year LS came with remote door locks and alarm system, but no immobilizer for the engine, which may be why your light doesn't show any activity.
The key I have is an aftermarket key. Lost the OG key 15 years ago. I was thinking maybe the key lost it’s programming and this is why crank but no start. Just seems like a logical reason to me but I don’t have much knowledge on the immobilizer tbh.
Start by checking the basics - Spark, Fuel Pressure, Injector Actuation, Timing Belt. Inspect spark plugs and wires, see how old they are, or if isolation is damaged. Here is a tool to check how strong the spark is, good coil, distributor and wires should be able to spark through about 8-10mm air gap.
The engine has 27k miles. It’s all pretty much brand new. Going to start with fuel related first. Then spark. Then mechanical.
For the Fuel Pressure, you should still have Return Line, take it off and crank the engine, see if the fuel will start pouring out,it is a little crude of a method, but will do in a pinch.
This is exactly my plan for tomorrow. Crude but what can you do if there’s no test port…But first I’m going to check in the trunk the fuel pump has 12v in the trunk. If I find 12v to the pump but no fuel flow at the rail… we know it’s the pump. I’m hoping, at this point, it’s the pump.
For injectors, use either a stethoscope or an LED light to check that you have signal from the ECU coming in. If you have OBD2 port, you can check if the ECU will output RPM when you crank the engine, it is very important.
I’m ‘95 so just OBD1. I have a stethoscope for injectors! Good idea. Wish I knew if I had cam and crank signals. I’d also think if either had failed then I’d have thrown a code.
You mentioned that the engine was spinning rather quickly, does it feel like it has any compression? One thing that can happen if the car sits is oil draining from the cylinders, and since the compression relies in a significant part on the oil film between the rings and cylinder wall, it can result in the engine loosing compression. To remedy this, take all the spark plugs out and pour a little bit of oil in each cylinder, then spin the engine with no plugs to push excess oil out, preventing hydrolock.
Pretty sure engine just spins quick because the AGM battery is new and strong. It’s only been sitting 2-3 months.
Other thing that can cause no compression is a slipped Timing Belt, on those cars it is easy enough to check, you just need to take the spark plug wire covers and align harmonic balancer with "0" mark on the cover.
Going to check fuel related stuff first! Then I’ll report back if I need to move on to spark or mechanical related issues.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Thanks for your detailed reply and taking the time to share some ideas with me. It has to be something simple… had the car 20 years and never had a check engine light or had the car not start…
The key I have is an aftermarket key. Lost the OG key 15 years ago. I was thinking maybe the key lost it’s programming and this is why crank but no start. Just seems like a logical reason to me but I don’t have much knowledge on the immobilizer tbh.
Did you have to program the new key? Here is a manual for your car, it has a picture of the key that came with this car from the factory, and that key has immobilizer chip in it, so if this is they key you had with the car and your Security Light doesn't function, it may be your problem.
Originally Posted by UpInTheLex
The engine has 27k miles. It’s all pretty much brand new. Going to start with fuel related first. Then spark. Then mechanical.
Wow that's impressive, is it a JDM engine?
Originally Posted by UpInTheLex
This is exactly my plan for tomorrow. Crude but what can you do if there’s no test port…But first I’m going to check in the trunk the fuel pump has 12v in the trunk. If I find 12v to the pump but no fuel flow at the rail… we know it’s the pump. I’m hoping, at this point, it’s the pump.
I wouldn't advise going that route, at least not as a first step, the cover that separates the fuel tank from the interior is likely glued on some kind of dragon sneeze, which is really annoying to deal with, and hard to cut away without damaging the cover. You mentioned that you have an Fp terminal is the Diagnostics connector, shorting Fp with B+ terminal and turning the Ignition to the ON position should activate the pump without having to tear into the wiring, try it to see if you will get fuel in Return line.
Originally Posted by UpInTheLex
I’m ‘95 so just OBD1. I have a stethoscope for injectors! Good idea. Wish I knew if I had cam and crank signals. I’d also think if either had failed then I’d have thrown a code.
Weird, since 1995 LS400 already has an OBD2 port alongside the old Toyota one. In any case, it is still possible to get live data even from OBD1 port, here is how to do so. Another way to check for signal is to get a tool like the one linked below and connect to the ECU, it is really not the best, but will do for something like that.
Did you have to program the new key? Here is a manual for your car, it has a picture of the key that came with this car from the factory, and that key has immobilizer chip in it, so if this is they key you had with the car and your Security Light doesn't function, it may be your problem.
Wow that's impressive, is it a JDM engine?
I wouldn't advise going that route, at least not as a first step, the cover that separates the fuel tank from the interior is likely glued on some kind of dragon sneeze, which is really annoying to deal with, and hard to cut away without damaging the cover. You mentioned that you have an Fp terminal is the Diagnostics connector, shorting Fp with B+ terminal and turning the Ignition to the ON position should activate the pump without having to tear into the wiring, try it to see if you will get fuel in Return line.
Weird, since 1995 LS400 already has an OBD2 port alongside the old Toyota one. In any case, it is still possible to get live data even from OBD1 port, here is how to do so. Another way to check for signal is to get a tool like the one linked below and connect to the ECU, it is really not the best, but will do for something like that.
It’s a USDM complete takeout engine/trans from a 97 car, but I’m running a ‘95 intake/harness/ecu. I probably made a thread about it 10 years ago.
I have never seen a USDM 1UZ-FE with less than 150,000 miles on it, that's impressive.. With such mileage, gotta wonder what happened to the car that you took that engine out of, if you don't mind me asking?
Originally Posted by UpInTheLex
My trunk liner comes off easily. No goo. Just metal clips.
What I meant is the flap that covers the hole for the passthrough to the tank, below is the picture. I haven't seen any mid-90's Toyota with that flap sitting on clips or bolts like they used to, now they are just really annoying to deal with..
Originally Posted by UpInTheLex
Now to decide on a fuel pump… Leaning towads a AEM 340 E85 compatible pump. This way I can start moving in the direction of a supercharger.
Well, not sure I have any advice for you in that regard, I haven't tried throwing a supercharger on 1UZ. With that, I would advise you to find a cause for the old pump to fail, just to prevent the new one from suffering the same fate. Make sure that you had at least half a tank left when you park the car, so that the pump is always submerged, and that there is no gunk in the tank that can cause such issue.
Pump the gas out. Interior bulk head left intact Tank out. Sender side. Interior of trunk. 3 lines up from the bottom by the diff. Tank out. Fuel pump side
This may be a little late but have you considered putting a liquid liner inside the gas tank? There are several on the market and all the ones my friends have used in the BMW Club have proved very satisfactory. Let me know.
Bill
95 SC400 Cranks. Won’t Start. Help Please.
