idk man, i guess its just oldness. i parked my car after dropping my mom off then suddenly "pop" and down goes my window. this is my plan though. cover this section with tape with the top open. poor in JB weld. hope it sticks to the cable and yea.. lol

 

Get a new regulator guys, its $120-130 (last time I had a sc). Bought a used one for $80, took a closer look at it and the wires were about to snap. Cough up an extra $40-50 bucks for a one that will guarantee to outlast your ownership.

Those bolts you just gotta put a lot of force while trying to turn and use the correct size. Shoot wd40 and it sit.

 

130? damn. im an 18 year old with a minimum wage job -__-

yea but the wrench just slips out like its butter coated. im tyring a 14mm -___- so frustrated AAHHH!!!

 

Minimum wage is more than enough, just save trust me its better in the long run.

I was 18 when I was working on my SC, as I mention the used one I bought the wires were all jumbo up. Luckily I was able to sell it to someone on craigslist. Lexus arent cheap.

 

new question. anyone elses windows roll down way to slowly? i heard to spray silicone on the rubber/plastic pieces to make it slide better.... anyone do this or do the new motors actually go fast and i should just buy two new regulators

 

Guys! I fixed my window regulator for free with a clothes hanger lmfao. Ill post up a pic later I didn't even take out the regulator or anything lol. Saved me 130$ haha.

 

I sprayed mine then let them sit, then I used vice grips on the round outside bolt and had no problem getting them off. Mike

 

I didn't think of sprayin em -_- I fixed it tho lol

 

I just fixed my passenger side regulator using Photon440's method, with a couple of small variations because I wasn't missing as much plastic as he was.

I did a couple of things the hard way. If I had thought things through a little more prior to drilling and tapping a hole it would have been easier, and I wouldn't have had to custom grind my machine screw and the little metal block on the cable. It worked out great in the end though!

I took a lot of pictures, and will post them up after I figure out how to use Windraw and Photobucket.

Like Photon440 said, this way of doing it is much stronger than the factory design ---- I bet it lasts as long as the car. If so, it's better than buying a new reg! And you can even do it if the 'ears' are broken off of your plastic trolley piece (I cut my remaining one off to make the installation easier). I did mine with the regulator out of the door, because I took it out before seeing his DIY, and I also have some tips for getting regs in and out. I can see how easy it would be to do it right in the door though, and that's what I'll do if the driver's side goes

Kudos to Photon440!

 

You can break them loose using something like a punch (I used a nail set) in the small slots you see on the front, tapping with a hammer. Then just use a flat open end 14 or 15 mm (depending on your year) and unscrew them by feel from the back.

 

Okay, this is the first DIY I've written, and the first time I've used WinPaint and uploaded pics.

I put a U-pull regulator in my passenger door last February, and it was toast by the end of May. I read about the JB Weld repair, planned to do it, then saw how many people it didn't hold up for. I was resigned to just buying a brand new reg, and found them as cheap as $108 online with free shipping. I just had other things I had to spend my money on in June. I had tried taping the window up, but with the heat we've been having that didn't work for long, so I pulled the regulator and made a pvc support to hold the window in place. [That was actually a bad idea, at least the way I did it, but that's another story.]

A week ago I read more of this thread, seeing Photon 440's way of fixing a regulator, and decided to try it. I couldn't do exactly what he did, because my plastic trolley hadn't self destructed a much as his. I still had one of the 'ears' that wrap around the glide track, and my plastic also hadn't broken away clear down to the metal plate inside of the trolley. Because of that, I knew that I didn't need the nut that he used, but thought that I could still drill and tap a hole, then use a pan head 1/4 20 machine screw to hold the little metal block on the cable in place.

That's what I decided to do. Here are my first pictures.

[Drats! I just realized that some of them have too much flash glare, or are too out of focus to see very well)


Anyway, the first picture shows my regulator trolley. The aqua green arrow shows where I had a lot more plastic than Photon440, which was about 3/16" thick. The purple arrow shows that I had one of my 'ears' that wrap around the glide track still in place. The yellow arrow shows where I drilled and tapped a 1/4 20 hole. The red X and arrow shows about where I SHOULD have drilled and tapped my hole (more on that later).


The second picture shows my 1/4 20 pan head machine screw run into the new threaded hole. When it was run in, it didn't fit flush and flat against the plastic surface where the cable would go, so I marked the plastic in the way with a blue sharpie. I then used a Dremel to cut away plastic that was in the way, and to grind the surface it would meet flat. I ran it in, then removed it, and grabbed my regulator.

The third picture shows my trolley (but not in place) on the regulator, after pulling the cable away from the glide track. Once you get hold of the cable with the metal block on it (I ran my block to about the middle of the track by plugging it back into the door harness), you can actually use the trolley to pull the cable out the track, and then use it to hold everything in place against the side of the track (wish more of my pics were better). The red arrows show where the trolley is holding itself temporarily in place against cable tension. The black arrow is my machine screw. The blue arrow is the block on the cable. The lavender lines show where I had problems! The upper lavender arrow shows that the head of my screw, instead of running in to clamp the cable to the (new) flat plastic surface, comes down on the corner of the cable block. The lower lavender line shows where the head of my screw extends too far, creating a clearance problem inside the track. The yellow drawing tries to illustrate what I mean -- and the vertical purple line is a side view of the horizontal one I drew in lavender. Basically, both show the part of the machine screw head that I had to grind away. The blue arrow shows the corner of the cable block that I also had to grind away That's why I drew a red X in the first picture! If I had drilled and tapped my hole about 1/8" further that way, in both directions, a lot less grinding would be required.

Picture #4 shows that the 1" machine screw I used was too long. I used a 3/4", and it was perfect. I also used some blue threadlocker when I put it in.

Picture #5 shows more clearly what I used the yellow lines to show in pic #3. What I did was grind the corner off of the cable block first, then tighten the screw down all the way. After that I could mark which part of the screw needed grinding away. This picture shows that.

Picture #6 shows the trolley back in place (but very blurry). I had to cut my remaining 'ear' off to do so without bending the track, but Photon440 is completely correct --- the cable tension holds it in place.

 

Sorry. It could have been better.

I need to learn how to draw fatter lines! Then you'd see them.
Here are two more pictures. #6 shows the plastic trolley back in the track.

The last picture is a tip for anyone putting another regulator in. One the the hardest things about doing regs a a stumbling amateur is getting them in and out, clearing the glass. After fighting them more than once, I realized that grinding about 1/8" off of the front, top stud (the first 1/4" or so isn't threaded anyway) makes the entire process much easier.

 

Hey --- it was my first try!

PM me if you have questions.

 

I'm glad it worked out for you. Your changes from my method could be useful for anyone wanting to chose which way will work best for their given situation.

Out of curiosity, how long did the process take for you?

-=Photon440=-

 

Question.. this whole time i have been thinking my window motor went out on my 95 SC300. it went up and down fine. Fast even, not slow like it was going out or anything. Then one night driving it i rolled my window down and few mins later tried to roll it up. Made a sound like it was goin to go up but didnt. I can push the button up and down and it make a sound like its attempting to move but window doesnt. I was on a bumpy road when it happened so i never heard a pop or snap like anything broke. I can lift and lower the window by hand still.

Does this sound like it can be fixed with this method or is it in fact the motor itself needs changed in my situation?