Can't get in trunk. Need help!
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 22
Likes: 3
From: Michigan
Can't get in trunk. Need help!
So my brake lights don't work and I'm trying to get into the trunk to see if it's the bulbs. My lock on the trunk is damaged so I can't use that and the lock unlock cylinder under the dash is gone. (All like this when I bought it) When I pull the trunk release switch I can hear a click under the dash but nothing happens. I've seen some posts about splicing wires and having that work but before I get into that I figured because I can hear the clicking that the switch is working... Someone help me out please! Also if anyone has any other ideas on the brake lights, let me know. I replaced a blown fuse and the brake light sensor at the top of the pedal. Again I have no access to the trunk. Thanks in advance for any help!
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 22
Likes: 3
From: Michigan
Ok so I got into the trunk by reaching my arm through the speaker deck with a pair of needle nose and grabbing the lever and pulling it. Found out the electric release was unplugged so it's good now, but still no brake lights. Bulbs don't look burned out and the tail lamp failure seems to be working as it should. I don't know what to do here...
Pole Position
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,085
Likes: 401
From: Nor CA
Always good to have 2 ways to get into the trunk for our cars. Pulling the back seat is of little use as the fuel tank is an impediment....
As soon as you gain access get the lock cylinder addressed so the key can open the trunk. There are so many ECUs and electrical complications with the first gen SCs .......
As soon as you gain access get the lock cylinder addressed so the key can open the trunk. There are so many ECUs and electrical complications with the first gen SCs .......
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Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 22
Likes: 3
From: Michigan
Thanks everyone! Figured it out. The wiring on this thing is so bad. Possibly beyond saving. The third brake light terminals were pulled or broken out of the actual plug and were contacting on the body somewhere. No more short and shifts out of park just fine. Pretty sure that once I hook the factory radio back up (car didn't even have a working unit in) that none of the speakers will even work because of the wiring. I don't know, I'll find out. Need a few more things to get it 100% daily ready. This community has already answered so many questions I've had. You guys are awesome!
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Too bad you’re in MI. I have a 100% complete full harness.... and i mean every-single-piece uncut from when i stripped a parts car. I spent days extra to go out of my way to get everything down to the ring terminals without cutting it.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 22
Likes: 3
From: Michigan
Damn man, that's awesome. I've seen your posts everywhere, you seem very knowledgeable and dedicated. My suspicions were true, I got everything put back together and not a single speaker works. Whoever wired this thing up for subs literally ran individual wires to every speaker. The factory plugs for the factory head unit were all still intact. So it might be possible for me to get factory speakers and just plug them in. There is part of the harness in the trunk that was just completely hacked off and I have no idea what it was for. I'll make a seperate thread at some point asking if anyone knows what it is. For now though, this issue has been fixed!
If it's the right side of the trunk, they probably cut the stereo harness that runs from the head unit to the amp and CD changer there, then back up to the speakers. You probably have everything intact up front, so you could replicate what they did by putting in your own amp and tapping into the appropriate stock wires for inputs and outputs.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 22
Likes: 3
From: Michigan
If it's the right side of the trunk, they probably cut the stereo harness that runs from the head unit to the amp and CD changer there, then back up to the speakers. You probably have everything intact up front, so you could replicate what they did by putting in your own amp and tapping into the appropriate stock wires for inputs and outputs.
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