Well ****... Like everyone else I'm sorry to hear it Marcus. These situations suck. I've done both - I've fixed big breakdowns/projects and I've also given up and parted them. To be completely honest, I think I regret giving up and parting out more than I ever have fixing one. I suppose the best route is to sleep on it for a week or two and see if the money spent will be worth it to you or not.

 

Sorry to hear about that. I would take a break from it and circle back later to see what happened. If it was the turbo and bearings made its way into the pan, whole ball bearings shouldn't have made it past the oil pickup screen.
Usually only shavings or small pieces like broken off bearing material would make it past the screen unless the screen is damaged. They might not even use true ball bearings in those turbos.

So could be something else going on. The 2jz uses ball bearings to plug the oil galleys and are often replaced with plugs once the block has been serviced by a shop.
Haven't heard of them just falling out before but that could explain how whole bearings ended up inside the filter as it wouldn't need to go through the oil pickup screen then.
You would probably have had low oil pressure though for an unknown amount of time, was there lots of shavings in there in addition to the bearings?
If you haven't run it alot since whatever happened you might be able to save it, unfortunately depending on what happened you may need to take the block apart.

Pull a couple cam caps on the head and check the surfaces, if they look fine then you are probably ok to use that on another block. good luck!!

 

Marcus, great to hear back from you. I have my fingers crossed for you with your up coming plans for your car. I just turned 83 so I don't know if I will be around when you retire and move to Huntsville but I will try my best. I am going to sit down and read a couple of threads and yours will be first. We have cool weather just around the corner and for me that is the best time here to work on my car. I find myself not getting upset when something goes wrong in cooler weather as much as the warmer times of the year. We will be thinking about you so please keep us up to date. Good luck to you on your car.
Bill

 

Thanks so much Bill! I can understand what you mean. I was really looking forward to building our home down there, but my wife is not ready to leave the city yet. I come down there several times per year, maybe we can meet up one of those times!

As a general update, here are the plans for the car:

- I had a complete block built: Main studs, Line Honed, polished crank, Wiseco Boostline A beam Forged Rods, Carillo Forged Pistons, upgraded wrist pins, and decked
- Ported VVTI Oil Pump to increase pressure release hole size (for decreased pressure behind the front main seal, and crank position sensor.
- 240 Amp JS-Alternator with 2/0 big 3 upgrade
- 1000cc FIC Injectors
- Fuel pressure regulator and lines to adapt to stock rail and stock hard lines
- R35 GTR Coil Packs and harness
- Brand New CD009 w/Serial Nine adapter kit, aluminum one piece driveshaft, and OS Giken twin disk clutch (still awaiting delivery)
- Cusco 1.5 way LSD installed into a 3.27 rear end

I am pretty much dead in the water until I get the clutch. My wife occupies the garage and so I have to be ready to get the install done before I start the project. Like you Bill, this is the best time to do these projects. The heat is not stifling and its overall much more comfortable. Hopefully I can get the clutch before the winter sets in!

 

What an impressive list and how much you have already done. Like I said before please keep us posted on all your accomplishments. I love to see people build car and you are well on the way to finishing this one.

 

Did you ever find out what happened to the motor? Like Ali said, it would be odd for the bearings to be from the turbo, but I'm no expert. Please update us if you find out!

 

Glad to hear of your progress Marcus! That new block is the business the way you've built it. The new CD009 transmission, OG Giken clutch kit (which model type of theirs did you end up buying?) and the Cusco LSD 3.27 rear end are going to be amazing upgrades for your SC!

Did you order the OS Giken clutch from RHDJapan? Depending on their available inventory some items can take a little longer, especially if OSG has to manufacture new batches of a certain product to meet order demand.

 

Marcus,

Good luck with the upgrade. Sounds like it will be a killer. When you are done, I will make a trip into the city to see her if you are good.

Bruce

 

I have not, once I get to pull the engine, I'll let you all know what I find.

I got the TR2CD Twin Plate clutch for CD-PRO sold by serialnine. It is apparently a perfect fit with their CD-PRO adapter kit for the CD009. My clutch is supposedly one of the next clutches to leave the factory. I certainly can't wait to get it all setup and tuned

I'll definitely let you know! We need to meet up again.

 

So my clutch came in last week! Finally, but the issue is that now it is cold outside and I only have my street to do this work on.



I'll find some warm time and will do as much as I can in my garage when my wife isn't at home

 

Hey Marcus,
Good looking clutch, hope all goes well with the install. I look forward to seeing your SC on the streets again and you can send us some pictures.
Happy Thanksgiving
Bill

 

Niiiice! You'll be very happy with that OSG clutch, Marcus! Did you purchase their metal clutch centering tool also? I highly recommend that per your specific application when installing one of their brand clutches. Something that an OS Giken USA representative said to me was that extra attention to keeping their clutch centered when installing is very important. This is why they offer billet steel centering tools instead of a standard nylon/plastic centering tool since the billet steel keeps everything more accurate.

Also you should avoid hanging the transmission on while tightening everything down on the twin disc clutch-- so use a transmission jack of some kind while working.

For the R154 I was able to use their movement change conversion kit which requires no measuring and adjustment but for a CD009 you may be using a hydraulic throwout bearing kit which will require measurement and adjustment on the first installation.

Once you finally have it all bolted up and ready to go you are going to have a VERY "ON/OFF" feel on the clutch pedal right off the bat with nearly zero slipping capability. This is normal for an OS Giken and most twin disc clutches when you *first* install a new one. It'll be like that for 200-300 miles and then it will gradually ease up and become much easier to modulate and slip.

Once mine was fully broken in I had no trouble driving with it and slipping just like any other clutch, although it's still got just a little difference in feel compared to your average OEM clutch.

I think OS Giken stated at least around 500 miles of easy clutch break-in for my STR2CD clutch kit but just to be safe (since it was so expensive and my first twin disc clutch!) I gave it 900-1000 miles of break in before I started to ease in to giving it more power.

I don't know what yours is rated at with the "480" stamping means but these OS twin disc clutches are often rated for high torque capacity with bronze disc surfaces. I think mine is rated for about 600ft-lbs which is total overkill for my engine's output but that over-rated capacity should be good for long service life between replacements. Hopefully yours is also over-rated enough for your application. In the OS Giken literature they generally suggest to use a clutch that will only have 80% of its total rated torque capacity used for long life of the friction material.

But then again... with 2JZ engines that is not always so easy to keep in line, lol

 

Thanks!!

Hey Kahn! I did purchase a billet steel alignment tool, but I got it from Grannas Racing as OSG has everything on back order. The alignment tool is in the clutch in the picture, but no one can tell if it is metal or not from a picture. Thanks for the tip about not hanging the transmission off the engine while working on connecting the bolts/etc. Also, thanks for the heads up on the clutch feel.

Did you upgrade your clutch master cylinder from the stock 5/8 to a 3/4? I ordered a CMC from a ‘87 Landcruiser for this purpose as it has the same bolt pattern and is a great price.
Also is your OSG twin disk sprung or unsprung? Mine is sprung for supposedly a much better driving experience.

This specific clutch is rated for up to 800 lb/ft. of torque. So I guess I need to cap my power off at about 620 😃 That will be plenty for me. I’m really hoping the engine can make it somewhere close to that number. My last two dyno sessions were very disappointing at 285 and 380 hp each time.

 

The Grannas Racing billet steel alignment tool will do the same thing. Some OS Giken items do go on backorder occasionally while they make new batches of the sold out parts. They aren't a very big company despite their extensive catalog of stuff.

You can also download manuals and information right off the OS Giken USA website. VERY helpful to have all the manuals in English translation if they weren't provided as such with your kit!

Certainly on the tip about the transmission. It is also stated in the OSG install manual but their representative reminded me of this while he had me on the phone asking pre-installation questions.

Yep, the clutch feel (on/off) will be a handful at first but it will even out as I described to a much easier to slip feel after the break-in period. Just don't rush the break-in period. I am not sure what the OS Giken USA reps might say but it may be a good idea to keep the boost on the lower end until the clutch is broken in. The way I understood it is that after the critical period you gradually give it a little more power over time. I tended to pay it on the safe side when breaking in but call them up and see what they say. My mild 300whp+/ish engine probably presents less of a concern for smooth break-in than a 700whp+ engine.

I did not upgrade the clutch master cylinder, no. Stock OEM Lexus/Toyota master cylinder and Aisin slave cylinder all the way. I figured my setup is so mild on power that there would be no need to mess with the clutch hydraulic system (other than using the OS movement change kit for the R154). Is there an advantage to using the 3/4 master cylinder? I didn't know an '87 LC (FJ60?) master cylinder would work on an SC.

....

I do believe the STR2CD twin disc that I am using is a sprung clutch. Its engagement point can throw off someone who isn't used to it at all but it's surprisingly easy to drive in the city and in traffic (though I tend to minimize my use of the clutch in stop and go crawl situations anyway). Nothing like it was when I first installed in and needed to break it in. I can't imagine what it would be like to use an un-sprung clutch in an everyday street car. For a track car or very aggressive weekend warrior maybe.

I think you will find the overall driving experience to be better with the sprung clutch kit you purchased. The big advantage with a twin disc clutch is to have pedal effort and feel closer to a stock clutch but with twice the surface area and thus twice the torque holding capacity that you'd otherwise need much higher clamping forces, much more exotic materials and a puck payout to achieve.

After trying ACT clutches in a couple of cars over the years and later a couple of SouthBend clutches in my SC (arguably one of the best conventional single disc clutch makers for the Toyota R154, V160 and W58) I'm happy with the particular model OS Giken twin disc that I'm using for street application. Other than people being weirded out by the metal-on-metal sound every time you push the clutch pedal in it's nearly normal.

Also as mine is an STR2CD I believe the "S" is significant in that it stands for "Street" or "Soft". There is also a TR2CD and I believe the absence of the "S" means it is a more stiffly sprung clutch kit.

....

800ft-lbs is a great rating! 600whp-640whp-ish should be fine. Again, the 80% of total capacity recommendation is mainly for long term life of the clutch but this would also be a good question for the OS Giken USA reps if you're wanting to know just how far you can reliably push that kit up to.

...

I think with all the recent work you've put in you'll be able to reach those numbers with a tuning map (or maps) and a healthy fuel system.

380whp isn't bad at all but of course that's just a stepping stone to your goal ballpark output ; )

 

So the Serialnine CD Pro has a t56 concentric slave cylinder. Apparently that slave requires a 3/4 bore CMC to fully engage. So I needed to upgrade. By chance a few days ago I found that the 87 LC CMC would work:
I actually have the TR2CD clutch setup for the CD009 conversion. We shall see how my car holds up! Hopefully it will run on the current map with the new short block.