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I know this topic has come up for just about every model year, but it seems to be nearly impossible to find decent info. I'm hoping that someone here has figured this out for my model year (1995)
When I bought my SC, it came with two keys and a valet key but no master key (the one with the single button).
Reading through the manual, it says that the keyless entry used Frequency HYQ1512A.
However, when I had the rear panels out while working on speaker replacement, I got a close look at the wireless door module, which shows a different FCC frequency ID. (HYQWDR-C).
What is the correct FCC ID for this car, and where is the best place to buy an OEM key that is compatible? My local dealership quoted me something well over 350 bucks (and didn't confirm the transmitter frequency.
You can do this for much less. Just go to your Lexus dealership and purchase a master key for $115.97 (part number 89742-24070), get it cut and find someone with Techstream software and have them program the key to your SC. $350 is an over inflated price.
You can do this for much less. Just go to your Lexus dealership and purchase a master key for $115.97 (part number 89742-24070), get it cut and find someone with Techstream software and have them program the key to your SC. $350 is an over inflated price.
Thanks for the info. I did a search on the software and it appears to be compatible with OBD2.
Since mine is a 1995, it is still the older OBD1.
Is the programming with the software required or can it be done with the door lock/unlock sequences?
It was my understanding that 92-94 required reprogramming the ECU or swapping out the chip, but 95 didn't.
I could be wrong though, because like I said, this is a tough topic to nail down info about.
It appears you can program it yourself, I found this information in my files.
KEY REGISTRATION (1995 AND LATER MODELS):
Set initial conditions:
Key out of ignition
Driver’s door open and unlocked
All other doors closed and locked
Registration Procedure:
NOTE: Perform all steps with no more than a five second interval between steps.
1. Insert key into ignition for 1 second and remove.
2. Cycle (lock and unlock = 1 cycle) the driver’s interior power door lock switch 5 times
(1 second in each position).
3. Close and reopen driver’s door.
4. Cycle the driver’s interior power door lock switch 5 times (1 second in each position).
5. Insert key into ignition and cycle the ignition on and off:
One time to add a new code.
Two times to add a new code and erase all previously stored codes.
Three times to check how many codes are currently registered.
6. Remove key from ignition. Receiver should respond by cycling the door locks a corresponding
number of times:
One time to add a new code.
Two times to add a new code and erase all previously stored codes.
One to four times (slowly) to indicate how many codes are registered (end).
NOTE: If no response is given, start over at the beginning of this procedure.
7. Press the transmitter button (any button on fob type transmitters) for 1 second.
NOTE: Receiver should respond by cycling door locks once. If no response is given, start over at the
beginning of this procedure.
8. Close and reopen driver’s door.
9. Press the transmitter button for 1 second. Receiver should respond by cycling door locks:
One time to confirm operation is complete.
Two times to signal that the code is already registered.
I did all that like 2 years ago with my 95 and it was like 200 for the key from my local dealer and it didnt work because my wireless door lock ecu was ****ed.
I think key may have been more because they had to cut it as well and charged me for that?
So in my experience it would have been easier and cheaper to go aftermarket in the first place.
I'll attach the correct procedure for you to test your ecu if you go that route and still have issues like i did
I did all that like 2 years ago with my 95 and it was like 200 for the key from my local dealer and it didnt work because my wireless door lock ecu was ****ed.
I think key may have been more because they had to cut it as well and charged me for that?
So in my experience it would have been easier and cheaper to go aftermarket in the first place.
I'll attach the correct procedure for you to test your ecu if you go that route and still have issues like i did
Thanks for this. By chance, did you have the same frequencies on your car (HYQ1512A key and HYQWDR-C ECU)?
I ended up buying an uncut master key (89742-24070) from a Lexus Dealership via ebay (after having confirmed the correct part number based on my VIN).
Once it arrived, I programmed the transmitter myself and then went and got the key cut at a locksmith (dealership wanted $90 to cut it, locksmith was half that)
Total cost for the key (including shipping) $103 + locksmith $45 for a grand total of $148.
That beats the local dealership quote of over $350 by a wide margin.
Also, the FCC printed on the key is different from both my manual AND the transmitter so I don't know what magic was used to make it work, I'm just glad it did.
Thanks to all of you who replied to this thread and offered help.
Good luck with that, I tried everything you did and still had no success getting it to work. Went with an aftermarket Viper remote start/keyless entry and never looked back. Even has trunk pop feature. Good thing about this, my stock alarm system still works the same. Remote start comes in real handy with this mean cold weather we have been having lately, I remote start my car and she in nice and warm when I am ready to drive off.
Only cost me $175 installed for every thing.
08-04-17, 07:05 PM
1995 SC300 keyless entry question
