1995 SC300 keyless entry question
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
1995 SC300 keyless entry question
I know this topic has come up for just about every model year, but it seems to be nearly impossible to find decent info. I'm hoping that someone here has figured this out for my model year (1995)
When I bought my SC, it came with two keys and a valet key but no master key (the one with the single button).
Reading through the manual, it says that the keyless entry used Frequency HYQ1512A.
However, when I had the rear panels out while working on speaker replacement, I got a close look at the wireless door module, which shows a different FCC frequency ID. (HYQWDR-C).
What is the correct FCC ID for this car, and where is the best place to buy an OEM key that is compatible? My local dealership quoted me something well over 350 bucks (and didn't confirm the transmitter frequency.
When I bought my SC, it came with two keys and a valet key but no master key (the one with the single button).
Reading through the manual, it says that the keyless entry used Frequency HYQ1512A.
However, when I had the rear panels out while working on speaker replacement, I got a close look at the wireless door module, which shows a different FCC frequency ID. (HYQWDR-C).
What is the correct FCC ID for this car, and where is the best place to buy an OEM key that is compatible? My local dealership quoted me something well over 350 bucks (and didn't confirm the transmitter frequency.
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Since mine is a 1995, it is still the older OBD1.
Is the programming with the software required or can it be done with the door lock/unlock sequences?
It was my understanding that 92-94 required reprogramming the ECU or swapping out the chip, but 95 didn't.
I could be wrong though, because like I said, this is a tough topic to nail down info about.
#5
Pole Position
iTrader: (15)
It appears you can program it yourself, I found this information in my files.
KEY REGISTRATION (1995 AND LATER MODELS):
Set initial conditions:
NOTE: Perform all steps with no more than a five second interval between steps.
1. Insert key into ignition for 1 second and remove.
2. Cycle (lock and unlock = 1 cycle) the driver’s interior power door lock switch 5 times
(1 second in each position).
3. Close and reopen driver’s door.
4. Cycle the driver’s interior power door lock switch 5 times (1 second in each position).
5. Insert key into ignition and cycle the ignition on and off:
number of times:
7. Press the transmitter button (any button on fob type transmitters) for 1 second.
NOTE: Receiver should respond by cycling door locks once. If no response is given, start over at the
beginning of this procedure.
8. Close and reopen driver’s door.
9. Press the transmitter button for 1 second. Receiver should respond by cycling door locks:
KEY REGISTRATION (1995 AND LATER MODELS):
Set initial conditions:
- Key out of ignition
- Driver’s door open and unlocked
- All other doors closed and locked
NOTE: Perform all steps with no more than a five second interval between steps.
1. Insert key into ignition for 1 second and remove.
2. Cycle (lock and unlock = 1 cycle) the driver’s interior power door lock switch 5 times
(1 second in each position).
3. Close and reopen driver’s door.
4. Cycle the driver’s interior power door lock switch 5 times (1 second in each position).
5. Insert key into ignition and cycle the ignition on and off:
- One time to add a new code.
- Two times to add a new code and erase all previously stored codes.
- Three times to check how many codes are currently registered.
number of times:
- One time to add a new code.
- Two times to add a new code and erase all previously stored codes.
- One to four times (slowly) to indicate how many codes are registered (end).
7. Press the transmitter button (any button on fob type transmitters) for 1 second.
NOTE: Receiver should respond by cycling door locks once. If no response is given, start over at the
beginning of this procedure.
8. Close and reopen driver’s door.
9. Press the transmitter button for 1 second. Receiver should respond by cycling door locks:
- One time to confirm operation is complete.
- Two times to signal that the code is already registered.
The following users liked this post:
ThomasGS4 (08-10-17)
#6
Advanced
iTrader: (1)
I did all that like 2 years ago with my 95 and it was like 200 for the key from my local dealer and it didnt work because my wireless door lock ecu was ****ed.
I think key may have been more because they had to cut it as well and charged me for that?
So in my experience it would have been easier and cheaper to go aftermarket in the first place.
I'll attach the correct procedure for you to test your ecu if you go that route and still have issues like i did
I think key may have been more because they had to cut it as well and charged me for that?
So in my experience it would have been easier and cheaper to go aftermarket in the first place.
I'll attach the correct procedure for you to test your ecu if you go that route and still have issues like i did
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I did all that like 2 years ago with my 95 and it was like 200 for the key from my local dealer and it didnt work because my wireless door lock ecu was ****ed.
I think key may have been more because they had to cut it as well and charged me for that?
So in my experience it would have been easier and cheaper to go aftermarket in the first place.
I'll attach the correct procedure for you to test your ecu if you go that route and still have issues like i did
I think key may have been more because they had to cut it as well and charged me for that?
So in my experience it would have been easier and cheaper to go aftermarket in the first place.
I'll attach the correct procedure for you to test your ecu if you go that route and still have issues like i did
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#9
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I ended up buying an uncut master key (89742-24070) from a Lexus Dealership via ebay (after having confirmed the correct part number based on my VIN).
Once it arrived, I programmed the transmitter myself and then went and got the key cut at a locksmith (dealership wanted $90 to cut it, locksmith was half that)
Total cost for the key (including shipping) $103 + locksmith $45 for a grand total of $148.
That beats the local dealership quote of over $350 by a wide margin.
Also, the FCC printed on the key is different from both my manual AND the transmitter so I don't know what magic was used to make it work, I'm just glad it did.
Thanks to all of you who replied to this thread and offered help.
Once it arrived, I programmed the transmitter myself and then went and got the key cut at a locksmith (dealership wanted $90 to cut it, locksmith was half that)
Total cost for the key (including shipping) $103 + locksmith $45 for a grand total of $148.
That beats the local dealership quote of over $350 by a wide margin.
Also, the FCC printed on the key is different from both my manual AND the transmitter so I don't know what magic was used to make it work, I'm just glad it did.
Thanks to all of you who replied to this thread and offered help.
Last edited by Blutarsky0; 01-18-18 at 06:57 AM.
#10
Instructor
iTrader: (24)
Good luck with that, I tried everything you did and still had no success getting it to work. Went with an aftermarket Viper remote start/keyless entry and never looked back. Even has trunk pop feature. Good thing about this, my stock alarm system still works the same. Remote start comes in real handy with this mean cold weather we have been having lately, I remote start my car and she in nice and warm when I am ready to drive off.
Only cost me $175 installed for every thing.
Only cost me $175 installed for every thing.
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